Bordeaux Tour Nov-Dec 2017: part one

[Comte Flaneur]

We managed to arrange a couple of visits in the Medoc last Thursday and Friday and Alex kindly offered to put us up at his house. Arriving on Wednesday night he served us two mystery wines, the latter was the more easily recognisable as a southern Rhône, as it had rich notes of Christmas cake, but wasn’t hot on the finish - I think I am correct in saying 2005 was not a particularly hot vintage in Chateaneuf. Neither of us had seen this producer (see photos next post).The 2014 Savoie Avalanche Mondeuse (related to Syrah) was invigorated with food. The Beaumes de Venises was a welcome taste of sunshine.

On Thursday morning we visited Ch. Pichon-Longueville Comtesse De La Lalande, where there is a lot of exterior renovation going on. Probably the most tax efficient way of deploying their huge cash flow (I would estimate something like 25 million euros a year, what you call a high quality problem). The inside was fully upgraded in 2013 and is now state of the art/best practice.

We spent most of the visit in the tasting room, which looks out on to the vineyards of Chateau Latour. Astrid, our host, showed us four wines: two Reserve De La Comtesse, 2016 and 2011, and two of the Grand Vin, 2016 and 2005. The 2016 turned out virtually perfect for the estate, which meant that, unlike in 2000, no Petit Verdot made it into the blend for the GV, which was 75% cab sav, 21% merlot and 4% cab franc. The RdlC 2016 was 54% cab-sav, 37% merlot, 4% cab franc and 5% Petit Verdot.

The 2016 GV is hugely exciting, combining freshness, elegance and vibrancy, with power, richness and exoticism, which the Baron doesn’t quite match. You might say it is a hypothetical combination of the 1982 and 1996 Comtessas but it is, of course, early days yet. But it is, in my opinion, potentially one of the best wines in what could turn out to be the greatest modern Bordeaux vintage yet. The 2016 RdlC is also impressive with that extra spicy-peppery note lent by the Petit Verdot. Give it 3-5 years, it might be worth buying. However, at Pichon-Comtesse, they don’t pretend this is not a second wine, which is refreshingly honest of them. The 2011 RdlC is a delicious wine and ready to drink. The 2005 GV was not showing as well as last time we tried it, and was shy and subdued. May be because it was popped and poured.

We had lunch in St-Julien at Chez Meme, where I had lamb chops perfectly a point (i.e., a bit bloody) with a glass of the house red, a tasty Haut-Medoc - see picture, but this was a 2015. After lunch we went for a tour of Prieure-Lichine in the Margaux appellation. We did this on the hoof and it was a comprehensive tour for ten euros each after which we got to taste their white wine (nothing to write home about), and the 2012 vintage of their second wine (‘Confidence’) and their Grand Vin. Both were good, quite thick textured and recognisably Margaux. This estate has been on a roll recently, is somewhat under the radar and is worth watching. Prices have yet to catch up to the ramp in quality.

We braved the journey back into the centre of Bordeaux, which becomes gridlocked in rush hour as they are constructing a new tram system. In the evening we ate with Alex and his wife Christine at a family run restaurant called L’Air De Famille, where we drank Larmandier-Bernier Blanc De Blanc, which was fresh, elegant and vibrant, and a Chateau Bertiniere 2012 from Blaye, which had merlot-dominated plummy notes, but was otherwise unremarkable and somewhat one dimensional.

[Comte Flaneur]

Some pictures

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mxmPfQ5D8WmrN1Pd2

[dstgolf]

Ian,

Making us envious. I'll try and share some Bordeaux memories and pop the bottle of Le Dome on Friday night in Palm Springs at Quistot our favourite French restaurant in town. The Chateau brings back great memories touring with Michael P, Nic and Larry. Looking forward to Friday infanticide but still should bring a nice memory.

The Comtesse visit sounds like fun and always made that much more enjoyable when Alex is around for his knowledge base and barrel laughing sense of humour. I must ask where that head of grey hair came from though!!?? I guess retirement truly is not far off for him and many of us. At least his hair is still hanging in regardless of colour.

[Nicklasss]

Hanging out with AlexR is always a fun thing. I just can't get enough! I guess i could think the same about Comte, seing him more often.

More I read about 2016, more it looks like a vintage for me. The Chateau Pichon Lalande seems like a "must have", if I understand correctly Comte and other critics.

Prieuré Lichine is not a wine we see often reported here. In all my wine loving years, i think i only had the 1995.

Bertinerie is an ok wine, but of course, considering terroir and accessible price.

Looking forward TN on Le Dome. Effectively, just a quick afernoon to The Chateau of Jonathan Balthus in 2015, i did not wanted to go, but dstgolf and Larry did not gave me the choice. No regrets.

Nic

[jal]

Jill and I spent a delightful evening with Alex and Christine back in June. A legendary BWE hospitality with great food, wine and company, Alex loves to serve wines blind and keeps you on your toes. I will be prepared next time we go
I just bought "The Gourmands' Way: Six Americans in Paris and the Birth of a New Gastronomy" by Justin Spring where one of the six is Alexis Lichine. I can't wait to start the book, the whole story of Lichine sounds fascinating.
Enjoy the trip and post more photographs please.

[Racer Chris]

As a teenager/young adult I knew next to nothing about wine but I knew the name of Alexis Lichine as a result of my father's wine interests.

[AKR]

great pictures. did you take the TGV from London to Bdx?

[Comte Flaneur]

I wanted to Arv, but it worked out cheaper to fly. I wish I had my car. I will explain why in part three.

[AKR]

We could have a whole econ discussion of how the chokepoints of railheads and a monopoly labor supplier have extracted all the efficiencies of rail's superiority over air in short/medium distances...

Kind of sad overall. Amtrak in the US Northeast is the same way.