After last December's disappointing performance by the First among Firsts, I thought it only fair to let the wines try again. Some of the bottles were from the same source, others were not.
1982 Krug Champagne Vintage Brut Collection - France, Champagne
Simply gorgeous Krug. This is what you hope for but rarely find - terrific freshness combined with the complexity of age. Only medium weight yet flavorful, notes of wheat thins, Meyer lemon and peach. Perfumed and supremely elegant. Much different from the standard ‘82 Krug I have had over the years even though this one was purchased about 8 years ago. (97 pts.)
1996 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Another marvelous showing for the ‘96 Lafite, from a vintage which excelled in the northern Médoc. The most beautiful bouquet of the Lafite vertical, bursting with primrose and violet. Still young but drinking very well despite firm tannins. Emphatic and impressive. (94 pts.)
1986 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Deep and plummy, youthful, aging beautifully. Powerful yet graceful, graphite and iron, very Cabernet Sauvignon. Slightly dry tannins which do not soften with air. Will surely be even better in 5 years and last for decades. I think this one rather than the ‘82 will be the wine of the decade, and maybe the era, for the Lafite of the second half of this century. Scored conservatively for now, with room to grow in the future. (94 pts.)
1982 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
The ‘82 Lafite has taken a different path than the others of the decade. Surprisingly, the fruit is muted and a distinct savory element is now predominant. It’s elusive but maybe something like thyme, bay leaf and sage combined with minerals an just a hint of mulberry. Very complex and intriguing, the cerebral side of Lafite. (93 pts.)
1975 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Once again the ‘75 Lafite outperforms with respect to expectations. Tawny, not brown. Dried fruit, rust, the tannins are still firm and rather dry. But the whole is better than the parts and the hint of brown sugar helps to make it an interesting experience although not one I am eager to repeat any time soon. (90 pts.)
1970 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Corked, down the drain. NR (flawed)
1966 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
At first, just lean but then it became apparent it was lightly corked (again). NR (flawed)
1961 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
At its best, as from this bottle, ‘61 Lafite can be ethereal, delicate, sweet and elegant. Even better, it still has life and no excess acidity which plague some of them. A charming Lafite, a wine of finesse and delightful. Some might say it is too slight for a first growth in a celebrated vintage but Lafite goes its own way. (93 pts.)
1959 Château Lafite Rothschild - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Arguably the star of the Lafite vertical, this bottle, from the famous Nicolas Collection, was beguiling. Much deeper and more profound than the ‘61, the ‘59 is still saturated garnet in color and extraordinary complex. Slightly high acidity mellows out with time in the glass. What began as Damson plum turned somewhat prune like, which added character and originality to the profile. Intriguing. (95 pts.)
2001 Château Rieussec - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Sauternes
Outstanding Rieussec, the perfect finale to a Lafite tasting. Medium gold, lovely scent of vanilla oak, apricot, orange and cinnamon. Perfect acidity to balance the medium sweet flavors. Rieussec can sometimes become too top heavy and ponderous as it ages, but this ‘01, from a half bottle, is elegant and just right. Still young and may develop more botrytis character but to enjoy now for its harmony. (94 pts.)
We did a little better this time, despite the '66 being corked again. And once again the '86 was the star in a youthful fashion. The '59 was splendid again and the '96 shows much promise for the future. Still, it's hard to escape the conclusion that, at least for the mid to late twentieth century, Lafite is much less consistent and impressive than most of the other Firsts, especially Latour. Posted from CellarTracker
Stu
Last edited by sdr on Sat Mar 03, 2018 8:20 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Well done Stu! A bottle of 1959 Lafite served by Tom in DC back in 1999 is among the top 5 bottles of wine I've ever experienced. I can still taste and smell it if i just close my eyes and think back to that evening. It had beguiling layers of constantly changing complexity on the nose and palate.
Thanks for those notes Stu, that is some line up. Shame about the corked bottles again, but you seem to have a better hit rate this time. What does it take to give a red wine a high 90s rating?! Have you ever tried the 1953?
16 bottles of Lafite opened in less than 3 months? By reading your 2 reports, looks like the 1986 and 1996 are the best bet in buying 30 years old Lafite or younger.
I think I had Lafite just once, at the first BWE convention.
I recall when the 1996 Lafite came out, Parker gave it 100 points and made some comment along the lines of wishing he could give it an even higher score. I've had it once. It was too young when I drank it. I thought it was excellent and expected it to improve but I didn't see it flirting with perfection.
I have had the 1996 Lafite several times.
I have 7 bottles left in my mixed case of Lafite.
The thing I found is that, with a LOT of air -- like 6 hours worth -- it is indeed a 100+ point wine.
With limited air it is just a 100 point wine.
I have learnt quite a lot about Lafite in the last 3-4 months since we visited the estate.
The key takeaway is that more than any other wine in Bordeaux it needs time. I think the rule should be an absolute minimum of 20, but in general, especially for big vintages, at least 30. The 2007 we were served at the chateau was an exception and atypically forward. Our host at Lafite said explicitly that it typically needs three or more decades. The 1997 I took to our Lafite dinner last week was more backward than I expected, and only just entering its drinking window. When we were in Bordeaux that last time Alex generously broached a 2001, and it was very backward. I think it needs a minimum of ten years. I am sure the 1996 needs a lot more time too. I would imagine that wine won’t be really hitting its stride until the 2030s. The 1982 is nowhere ready judging by how it showed in 2012 and 2016.
The other takeaway with Lafite is that the magic is in the way it evolves in the glass. Its mid palate and finish. Its impeccable balance. We were very lucky last week because we got a lot of that and no flawed bottles. The average age of the wines we drank was 37. About right.
They were the class of the 86 tasting at Fabio’s back in 2008. On that night at least, I (and most of the room) marginally preferred the 86 Mouton, but the 86 Lafite was a close second, my third place was the Rausan Segla. I recall Ian was one of the few who didn’t have the Mouton first (you voted in order: Margaux, Lafite, Mouton if memory serves).
Not that I’m likely to taste either wine again (let alone at the same time), but it would be loads of fun to see if the Lafite over takes the Mouton in time.
I’ve never had ‘53 Lafite but I have to believe its best days were long ago.
I rated the ‘82 Latour I had with DANNY last week 100 points. It was the first time in three years I rated a wine that high - and that one was also a bottle of ‘82 Latour.
Yes true Patrick...that bottle of Ch Margaux 1986 was thrilling...soon after I moved back to London two years later I got invited to a David Wainwright ‘best of cellar’ dinner and (trust me, I don’t like to drop names) my LMHB 1989 was matched up against NM’s Margaux 1986 and my wine ended up ruefully licking its wounds.
Latour is a great Cabernet-based wine, on the best Cabernet terroir on planet earth that it shares with some other estates including LLC but also the Pichons. But a couple of miles further north is a terroir at the same level occupied by Lafite and Mouton.
Stu Latour is more consistent and I agree it is the pick of the 1982s, as PLL relinquishes its dominance but Mouton is close and Lafite isn’t by any means done. I think for those of us who are around in 20 years Lafite vs Latour vs Mouton will be a fascinating to watch. In my opinion from what I have experienced Latour is the most consistent first growth but Lafite is the greatest.
I was wowed by the 86 Margaux in 2008, but aside from a sullen and primordial LLC, it was the most recalcitrant of the 86s that night. Has it turned the corner, Ian?
The last time I tried it Patrick was at our Ch Margaux dinner two years ago. It wasn’t a great bottle frankly. It did seem more evolved yes, but was easily outshone on the night, notably by the 1996.
I know you've commented on the 1988 Lafite, Ian/Stuart, my recollection from back in the days when I used to drink Lafite is that it was a beauty, how has it performed in your experience?
It is quintessentially Lafite Jim, very much in your wheelhouse. It has an initial austerity on the opening with a wonderful tension, before a tobacco Cabernet leafiness. It develops marvellously in the glass, and has fabulous poise, seamless mid palate and finish. It has more ’Lafiteness’ than most other vintages including the 1985 (softer) and 1986 (bigger). If you are really nuts about Lafite (guilty your honor) it is one of your favourite vintages with the 1978 and 1983, my favourite three in our dinner a week ago.
The last time I drank 1988 Lafite was 3+ years ago in Paris with Lucie, Tim, Francois, and a friend of Tim's. It was very good, but that night is was overshadowed by Tim's 1969 La Tache and some other gems, including 1907 Latour. Still, it made my "memorable ten" list for 2014.
The last 1988 Lafite I opened was in 2013 with Tom in DC and Bob and Barb - 2 of our friends who are coming to DC for BWE '18. I thought it outstanding but still young. My notes:
1988 Lafite Rothschild (2/24/2013) Purchased on release and stored in temp controlled cellar since. Pristine cork and fill. Opened 4 hours before serving and decanted 1.5 hours before serving. Dark red core, lighter at rim without browning. Classic nose of pencil shavings, cedar and cassis, but not yet showing serious tertiary development. Medium body, good concentration, excellent balance, still showing some tannins and again not yet fully mature. Medium-long finish. After the '88 Margaux this actually seemed a bit masculine in comparison. Perhaps this is the better balanced, more serious wine but it needs more time to develop those true aged Lafite characteristics. I'll take the Margaux for hedonistic pleasure right now. Outstanding with upside potential.
