TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

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sdr
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TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by sdr »

Champagne seems to me to be under-represented on BWE, so this is my attempt to rectify that. I consider myself an unofficial member of the bubblehead tribe and drink the stuff regularly, sometimes the fancy tete de cuvees, sometimes not. The overall quality is excellent, with few real dogs. Drinking champagne also has the advantage of taking my mind off all the white Burgs I have that are rapidly rotting away, despite ideal storage conditions, but that's an old story by now.
  • 1990 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne (6/23/2009)
    Superb chamagne surely at its peak. Gorgeous bouquet of just-baked pastry, orange peel, nectarine and a hint of smoke. Medium weight, round and supremely elegant. Perfect juicy acidity. Active mousse and lively with the complexity that only comes with time in the bottle. Gets better as it warms in the glass, always a good sign. While certainly a fine accompaniement to food yet it's so good and so complex that it's worth contemplating on its own. (96 pts.)
  • 1990 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (6/20/2009)
    Still the undisputed champion vintage of Cristal for me. This was a perfectly preserved bottle from an Acker auction. Remarkably fresh, lively and juicy with a strong mousse of pin point bubbles. Very peachy and tropical fruity with just a hint of caramel to indicate its age. Typical high Cristal dosage, but stops short of tasting sweet. Beautiful, lingering finish. This is one of those relatively uinusual champagnes that is best appreciated alone, rather than with food. (97 pts.)
  • 1998 Pierre Peters Champagne Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Brut Millésimé - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (6/14/2009)
    My ony bottle and a real winner it was. Rich and fat for a BdeB, toasty, full. Excellent acidity, foamy, medium size bubbles and satisfying by itself or with food. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Vilmart Champagne Cuvée Creation - France, Champagne (6/4/2009)
    Beautiful champagne; soft, delicate, feminine, complex. Unlike many '96s, this is very approachable and the acidity is fully integrated in the background. Almost sweet on the nose with hints of tropical fruit. Light in body and easy to drink without food. The only question now is how long it will hold. (93 pts.)
  • 1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne (5/30/2009)
    For the first half hour, this seemed to be extremely stern and severe, especially when compared to the richer '85 Krug we dramk along with it. But finally, just as the bottle was almost finish and the wine warmed up to nearly room temperature, the breed, complexity, delicacy and elegance of a mature DP began to shine. More about minerals and acids than fruit, but there's a kernel of green apple that's compelling. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Grand Cuvée - France, Champagne (5/2/2009)
    This chamapagne seems to be getting younger and more backwards with age. Clearly fine quality but today wrapped up it an acidic grip which opens only a fraction with time, air and temperature. Still, the balance is there and underneath the acids there seems to be a core of green apply fruit. Better to wait at least a couple more years before trying again to let it unwind a bit. (91 pts.)
  • 1996 Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (4/11/2009)
    Really quite good (67 PN, 43 CH). Very pale with very active mousse. (I was able to determine that the bubbles are smaller and rise slower in a classical flute compared to a white wine glass.) Strong notes of citrus and intense acidity with little complexity at this stage, but the stuffing seems there for the long haul. (90 pts.)
  • 1990 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne (3/25/2009)
    Golden, very mature aroma of wax, orange peel, honey and porcini. Good mousse for age, full bodied, powerful finish. Spendid in its own way but bordering on oxidative, even though well-preserved. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Deutz Champagne Cuvée William Deutz - France, Champagne (3/21/2009)
    Drinking well already, this is a friendly, stylish, easy going champagne that does not exhibit the usual searing 1996 acidity. Unusually expressive for relatively young champagne, there is lots of citrus and underlying tone of lightly toasted white bread. More gentle than one might expect from the cepage of 75 PN/25 CH. Delightful but not profound. (90 pts.)
  • 1995 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne (3/14/2009)
    Still young of course, but the supreme quality of Comtes cannot be missed. The epitome of delicacy with intensity. Lovely nose of whole wheat bread, corn, lemon, flowers. Expressive, very pleasurable now but clearly will be showing even more in a few years. (93 pts.)
  • 1995 Salon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (3/14/2009)
    I can't score this champagne simply becaus it's so wound up and tight I cannot tell what it will be like when mature it another 10 years. Curiously, it's this vintage, not the surprisingly approachable '96, that's dominated by piercing acidity. Finally, after an hour warming up in the glass, a hint of the famous slightly oxidative sherry note could be discerned, but other than that it is all citric acidity.
  • N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Les Crayéres à Ambonnay - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne (2/6/2009)
    Indisputably marvellous champagne and maybe the best NV I have ever had (including MV Krug). Very lively, youthful and energetic and packed with delicious ripe masculine pinot fruit. The 4 yr. barrel aging adds notes of balsa wood, cooked meat and dried cherry. The color is light gold with a hint of red and the nose, while not effusive, also gives off hints of dark berry. Quite an unusual package. The only question is how long will it hold and develop. (93 pts.)
  • 2000 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne (1/31/2009)
    Very nice but very soft champagne. Butter yellow color, full mousse of small but not tiny bubbles. Almost nothing on the nose even with extended aeration, until it finally yielded a scent of fresh mountain air. Pleasant, delicate and elegant and would be decent enough for a blancs de blancs NV or vintage grande marque - but not for DP. (88 pts.)
  • N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Blanc de Noirs Grand Cru Les Crayéres à Ambonnay - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne (1/17/2009)
    From the medium gold color and deep nose of hay and walnuts, you just know this NV has to be interesting. It's a true blancs de noir and it shows in its delicious medium-rich flavors of coffee and roasted nuts. The barrel fermentation and aging surely contribute to the house character. Decent length and only a relative lack of intensity keeps the score from being even higher. But it seems fully mature and I doubt it will become richer with age and still maintain its balace. My first Egly-Ouriet and I can see what the fuss (and the price) is all about. (90 pts.)
  • 2002 Philippe Gonet Champagne Blanc de Blancs "Cuvee Belemnita" - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (1/17/2009)
    I quite enjoyed drinking this champagne but the cool-looking fat green bottle is the best part. It's a blancs de blancs from Mesnil and vintage 2002, so it can hardly be bad and to the contrary the impression is positive; delicate, frothy, gentle and lots of green and red apple with a bit of chalk. The strange designation refers to the subsoil which contains fossilized squid which is called "belamnita" in Latin. But the future is questionable and at $125, this first bottle will be my last. (89 pts.)
  • N.V. Egly-Ouriet Champagne Brut Tradition - France, Champagne, Ambonnay, Champagne (1/17/2009)
    From the medium gold color and deep nose of hay and walnuts, you just know this NV has to be interesting. It's 75PN/25CH and it shows in its delicious medium-rich flavors of coffee and roasted nuts. The barrel fermentation and aging surely contribute to the house character. Decent length and only a relative lack of intensity keeps the score from being even higher. But it seems fully mature and I doubt it will become richer with age and still maintain its balace. My first Egly-Ouriet and I can see what the fuss (and the price) is all about. (I received and drank this in eror, thinki9ng it was the NV blancs de noir.) (88 pts.)
  • 1996 Salon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (1/3/2009)
    Greg's bottle and what a treat it was. The infinite stream of the tiniest possible bubbles is mesmerizing to watch. Very citric at first and obviously young but the balance and sheer class of the Mesnil fruit makes an indelible impression. As it warmed in the glass, deeper notes of green apple, butter and peach are stunningly beautiful. This is the epitome of elegance and surely one of the 3 greatest (very) young champagnes I have tasted. (98 pts.)
  • 2002 Franck Bonville Champagne Cuvée Les Belles Voyes Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne (1/3/2009)
    Reassuringly beautifully balanced and elegant light to middleweight champagne. While obviously young, it's easy to drink now and has a hint of hazelnut or almond to blend with the more prominent citrus elements. Good stuff, but not fantastic. Worth the price ($68). (89 pts.)
  • 2002 Guy Charlemagne Champagne Mesnillésime Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (1/1/2009)
    Once again my re-tasting impression is not quite as positive as the original one. Still, the explosive mousse of very fine bubble is most impressive - enough to blow the cork out before I intended. It's clearly a very young, acidic and tightly wound champagne, which at this stage is certainly no bad thing. But as it warmed in the glass I did not see the depth of fruit and richness for which I was hoping. Still, the Mesnil fruit is classy and energetic and this be much better in a few years. (88 pts.)
  • 1988 Bollinger Champagne R.D. Extra Brut - France, Champagne (12/27/2008)
    Now it's very Bolly; massive, thick, beer-y, impressive in sheer size and weight. Not exactly my cup of tea, but I understand the appeal and it's undenaibly a great success in this extreme style. No longer youthful and has evolved rapidly since the last bottle(s). (92 pts.)
  • N.V. Pierre Moncuit Champagne Brut Grand Cru - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (12/25/2008)
    I've aged this bottle myself for at least a year and I belive it helps.It seems to have just a bit more depth and complexity although still a lightweight. You could do a whole lot worse than this for a house champagne for $30. (88 pts.)
  • 2002 Agrapart & Fils Champagne Mineral Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne (12/20/2008)
    It doesn't impress me as much this time and I don't know why. This bottle is from the same source and clearly was in sound condition. There's nice green apple and nutty notes with good acidity but somehow there's just a lack of real distinction. Decent for sure, but there are so many 2002s coming on board now, there's plenty of time to select just the most interesting ones at each price point. (86 pts.)
  • 1996 Desbordes-Amiaud Champagne - France, Champagne (12/13/2008)
    There's nothing exactly wrong with this champagne, just not enough right with it. The color is golden and the mousse is modest, suggesting maturity. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, toasty and decent but lacking the drive and intensity I would expect from a '96. The fruit is premier cru at most, so maybe that is the difference. I suspect there is a reason when a 1996 champagne is still available in quantity on initial release for a relatively modest price ($50). (85 pts.)
  • N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Réserve - France, Champagne (12/12/2008)
    At first, I thought this might be a touch sweet, but that impression vanished in a couple of minutes. Instead, this is a totally dry, authoritative, gingery wine that makes a strong palate impression, especially for a basic. Not at all a delicate, shy, flavor-challenged champagne like all too many entry level cuvees from some of the Grande Marques (or small grower) offerings. I like the energy and intensity but it lacks just a bit of distinction to be outstanding. I'd like to age thiis a year or three and see if it becomes even more interesting. (89 pts.)
  • 1985 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne (12/10/2008)
    While obviously very, very good, this time I was not thrilled. It's all about the impeccable balance and elegance, which is there to be sure, but I was hoping for more flavor authority and intensity. (90 pts.)
  • 1996 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne - France, Champagne (12/8/2008)
    I admit one of the reasons I bought this was because I though the visual impression of the bottle would be even more impressive out of magnum - and I was right., But since you can't drink the etched flowers, after admiring the bottle, I tried the wine. And just as the conventional wisdom would have it, the wine seemed five years younger in this format. Very, very elegant; floral and peachy but the beautiful '96 acidity makes the perfect backdrop to the gentle fruit and it's a total success. While the 750 seems to be almost mature already, it's clear the mag will be even better in the years to come. Absolutely delightful and a joy for the beginner or the aficionado who eschews reverse snobbery. (95 pts.)
  • 1990 Leclerc Briant Champagne Brut Cuvée Divine - France, Champagne (12/5/2008)
    This just has to be right in the heart of its mature phase. Light to medium body with delightful flavors of clean fresh baguette and lemon. The length ius modest but the flavors are pure and the balance impeccable. Very, very nice and drinks well with or without food. (90 pts.)
  • 2002 Agrapart & Fils Champagne Mineral Blanc de Blancs Brut - France, Champagne (11/29/2008)
    Excellent small grower champagne from Avize, with fruit also coming from the grand cru village of Oger. Fragrant already, deep and serious, well constructed and full-bodied for a blancs de blancs. It must be the high class fruit that makes this so good, along with of course skillful winemaking. I question its ability to age though since it seems ready now. Not cheap at $60 but worth it for this quality. (91 pts.)
  • N.V. Ruinart Champagne - France, Champagne (11/27/2008)
    I brought this to the Thanksgiving dinner at Joe Wilson's. It decent, solid, middle-of-the-road champagne with no real flaw but no particular character either. Unlike some reviewers, I did not find it too sweet. The fat bottle is the most fun part of the experience. (84 pts.)
  • 2002 Henri Mandois Champagne Blanc de Blancs 1er Cru - France, Champagne (11/23/2008)
    Decent, but simply not concentrated enough to merit much interest. Everything is correct - explosive mousse, medium color, faint nose of (untoasted) bread, good acidity, clean and mildly pleasant. This could serve as an introduction to champagne for someone who has never tasted it but then you want to move on to something with more personality. (84 pts.)
  • 1996 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Clos Saint-Hilaire - France, Champagne (11/22/2008)
    This is the kind of wine that stops conversation and inspires awe. After hearing mixed reviews and seeing Juhlins' puzzling 85/94 rating I was extremely curious to try this soon-to-be-cult champagne. As splendid as Billecart-Salmon is throughout their range, especially the magnificent 1996 Grande Cuvee, this is better yet. The color is slightly dark with a brown hue. The pinpoint bubbles are infinite and there's quite a foam, but no sense of gassiness in the mouth. It's the aroma that is immediately and intensely captivating: brown butter, walnut, toffee, mochacchino, caramel; classic pinot noir (this is 100% PN). And once in the mouth, it's hard to swallow, the gustatory pleasure is so great. The flavor is as rich and dark as the nose suggests and the finish is long and beautiful. It's young of course, but much more open than many other '96s. There's plenty of bright acidity but the sheer weight of the fruit covers it, even in this youthful phase. An undeniable masterpiece. (98 pts.)
  • 2002 Franck Bonville Champagne Cuvée Les Belles Voyes Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne (11/21/2008)
    A clear and convincing success, especially when first poured. Obviously from high class fruit (mostly from grand cru Oger) all from 2002 although not so labeled, this BdeB is very elegant and reminds me a bit of the '96 Billecart-Salmon BdeB. The wine is perfumed with white flowers, touch of chalk and spring air. Light to medium body, plenty of froth but not too gassy. Clean, crisp finish, excellent balance. The only negative was that it lost its focus as it sat in the glass even before it reached room temperature, so maybe more a champagne for the short or medium term than a long-term ager. (92 pts.)
  • 2002 Guy Charlemagne Champagne Mesnillésime Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Brut - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (11/16/2008)
    A clear winner from a producer I did not know, and relatively good value by today's prices for vintage champagne ($70). Very frothy in the glass yet not gassy in the mouth. Small but not pinpoint bubbles when it settled down in the glass. Delightful aromas of toast and croissant. Medium body and flavors which seem clearly to be pinot-dominted. But no, this is a blancs de blancs so it must be a reflection of the high quality fruit of Mesnil. Nicely balanced so it drinks well already but can probably improve over the next several years. (91 pts.)
  • 1996 Guy Larmandier Champagne - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne (11/2/2008)
    This champagne is now impressvely good, from its interesting nose of wheat, brown rice and a hint of caramel to its medium full palate to its long tasty finsih. The acidity is there but it is now being absorbed into the mid palate fruit. It was an excellent match with the modern Chinese cuisine at PF Changs. (91 pts.)
  • 1996 Perrier-Jouët Champagne Cuvée Fleur de Champagne - France, Champagne (11/1/2008)
    I really like this as is evident by my score, but I'm thinking I may have been seduced by a high dosage. It doesn't taste sweet to me but it's so easy to drink, especially for a '96, I wonder if the acidity is being masked by sugar. That said, it's a delicious bubbly which reminded me of the Billecart-Salmon '96 Blancs de Blancs because of its delicate structure, light toast and clean citrus profile. The length is modest an there are no fireworks but for sheer pleasure now, it's hard to beat. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 De Meric Champagne Cuvée Rene Millesime - France, Champagne, Avize, Champagne (10/30/2008)
    Very interesting indeed. I like this 100% pinot meunier wine better than the examples from Rene Collard but of course this one is decades younger. It's a bit funky, which seems to be the signature of the grape but the freshness, youth and acidity of the new vintage is a nice foil. I doubt it will become more interesting as it ages, but I won't find out at this price ($99). (88 pts.)
  • 1996 Fleury Champagne Brut - France, Champagne, Côte des Bars (Aube), Champagne (10/25/2008)
    I like this quite a bit better than Juhlin (80/82 points). The pinot noir, which is 80% of the blend (with the rest chardonnay) dominates the way you would expect. Slightly earthy, nutty and rustic. Smells something of hops ("beer" says Brian). From an obscure village in the Aube rated a lowly 80%. Yet decent energy and lift and ready now, unlike most '96s. (90 pts.)
  • 1996 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (10/4/2008)
    Tasted along side the very good NV BdeB, the superiority of the vintage bottle was obvious. Deeper in every way - color, aroma, flavor and finish. Gorgeous elegant stuff which will only gain with time, but its very approchable for a '96. (92 pts.)
  • N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (10/4/2008)
    Quintessential delighful example of entry-level B-S champagne. Very, very clean; no hint of yeast, oak or caramel. Yet far from being insipid, it's interesting in its suble aroma of alpine air and lemon peel. The palate confirms - light but not delicate, stylish, citrus juice that's all too easy to gulp down. The acidity is slightly predominant now and this should improve over the short term, say 2 - 5 years. (88 pts.)
  • N.V. Tarlant Champagne Brut Cuvée Louis - France, Champagne (9/29/2008)
    Really delightful champagne coming along nicely. Medium weight, friendly and easy to drink. Less evervesence than before but increased depth and tone in the middle range. Youthful but no longer young.The balance here is impeccable. (90 pts.)
  • 1996 L. Aubry Fils Champagne Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (9/20/2008)
    Very nice chard champagne, perhaps a bit too demure right now. Nothing out of place, still youthful but not screetchy. Composed but lacks the stuffing to really excite the palate. Previous bottles have been a bit more interesting. (88 pts.)
  • 1996 Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Fiacre - France, Champagne (9/6/2008)
    This is developing beautifully. Obviously deep, rich and concentrated. Still young, but the powerful wheat and citrus threads are tightly woven and the length is excellent. Superb mousse of endless very tiny bubbles. The pinot shows more than the chardonnay at this point. Really impressive and will surely be even better in a few more years. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Bollinger Champagne La Grande Année - France, Champagne (8/30/2008)
    Greg thought this was a bit fresher and younger than some previous bottles, but to me it was consistent with the last bottle and surprising to me at least, drinking very well right now. Tiny bubbles, nice active bead, not too heavy, yeasty or bready. That bright 1996 acidity makes this possibly my favorite vintage of Bollinger ever and I anticipate the remaining bottles will last very well. (91 pts.)
  • 1982 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (8/23/2008)
    I have been waiting a long time to consume this, my last bottle of the vintage and my oldest Krug. It's obvious from the color this is old since it's bronze. Deep, dark and rich flavors; very toast and caramelly but the bubbles are surprisingly vigourous and the palate is relatively fresh although there is a distinct note of oxidation which increases as it warms in the glass. Really interesting and enjoyable. (93 pts.)
  • 2002 Louis Roederer Champagne Cristal Brut - France, Champagne (8/21/2008)
    Certainly not a bad wine, but this vintage of Cristal seems awfully light and does not give me the impression it will fill out with age. But Cristal is tricky to judge on release and I may be underestimating it. Very clean, fresh, delicate yet not particularly elegant - and distinctly short. (87 pts.)
  • N.V. Jacquesson & Fils Champagne Cuvée No. 731 - France, Champagne (8/15/2008)
    Despite apparently being made naturally (quasi-organic) with no filtration and mostly from the 2003 vintage this version of the NV Jacquesson just doesn't impress me. Rather neutral in flavor, aggressive, acidic but without the buffering matiere to round it off. Perhaps more time in bottle will tame it but I can't say I'm interested in finding out. (85 pts.)
  • 1990 Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne - France, Champagne (8/9/2008)
    Now bordering on oxidation, this wine demands to be drunk now - but with great pleasure. Deep in color, powerful old chrdonnay fruit, gently bubbly. Hints of dark nuts and cardomon. Very interesting indeed. I do not believe Comptes is a champagne that can go for a very long distance. (92 pts.)
  • N.V. Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (8/8/2008)
    This is a remarkable NV from this champagne house I become more enamored of with each bottle I try. The bubbles are quite large which in my experience does not usually presage a good champagne. But in this case, no matter. The nose is shy; just a hint of seabreeze. But once in the mouth, the focus, purity and freshness are amazing. Delicate but not insipid. Very chardonnay. While of course not the masterpiece the '96 Grand Cru is, the quality for a NV is almost unprecedented in my experience and I prefer it to the '98 Cuvee Nicolas Francois at twice the price. It might even gain with another year or two but there's no reason to hold back now. (91 pts.)
  • 1996 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Grand Cuvée - France, Champagne (8/2/2008)
    Simple stunning. Not a big or muscular wine - it's Billecart-Salmon. But side by side with the '98 B-S Cuvee Nicolas Francois, it was very obvious this was a huge step up which I don't attribute solely to the difference in vintage. Medium body but a kaleidiscopic range of flavors including wheat thins, lemon, orange peel and others too numerous to describe. A wine of remarkable breed and complexity and drinking very, very well right now. Can it age? (95 pts.)
  • 1998 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Cuvée Nicolas-Francois - France, Champagne (8/2/2008)
    This is certainly pleasant and fluffy in the delicate house style, but just too insubstantial for the tariff. Interesting smell of fresh-baked pretzels, says Brian. I haven't yet had the non-vintage Blancs de Blancs, but I imagine this is not a substantial step up. (87 pts.)
  • 1996 Billecart-Salmon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne (7/13/2008)
    This champagne is remarkable for its purity. The vigorous mousse and energetic cordon is expected, although the bubbles are just small, not pinpoint. At first whiff, there is a sensation of purity; dry and citric with an impression of clean mountain air. Not even a hint of bread or yeast. On the palate, the wine delivers a splendid sense of refinement, delicacy and elegance. It got even better with a little time in glass as it warmed up and became more integrated. The '96 acidity is there but became less intrusive with time. A complete success. (93 pts.)
  • 1988 Krug Champagne Brut - France, Champagne (7/5/2008)
    A beautiful champagne to start our wine dibnner at Table 8 with Greg, Brian, Nic and Marie-Claude. Perfectly mature. An elegant middleweight with a hint of the Krug caramel but so much more. Excellent mousse with a mesmerizing coronne of tiny bubbles. Long, refreshing aftertaste. Easy to drink yet rewards study. (94 pts.)
  • 1988 Salon Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (6/28/2008)
    Very, very distinctive champagne in the oxidative style. Whe Salon is mature, it gives off the unmistable smell of sherry. I like it in moderation, but this one at age 20 is as close to fino sherry as I want to get. That said, there a lot to like here, from the perfect modest mousse of tiny bubbles to the remarkable richness on the palate without the sense of weight to thel ong lasting finish. Not a quaffer, this wine demands attention and needs food to show at its best, such as goat cheese. (92 pts.)
  • 1996 Guy Larmandier Champagne - France, Champagne, Cramant, Champagne (6/22/2008)
    (? box #30) What an impressive explosion if tiny bubbles; so many that a foam was created which refused to die for at lest 10 minutes. I thought from the dark fruit aroma that this would be pinot noir dominated, but the label says blancs de blancs, so this is a meaty, powerful expression of chardonnay. Rather harshly acidic at first, but as it warmed up in the glass for an hour, it become smoother, softer and much more rounded. In 5 years, this could become incredible. (90 pts.)
  • 1995 Pierre Moncuit Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Brut - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (6/7/2008)
    Essentially identical to the bottle last week. Interesting comparison at Prime 112 with the much screechier '96. This is the one to drink now while waiting for the '96 to settle down. (91 pts.)
  • 1996 Pierre Moncuit Champagne Blanc de Blancs Cuvée Brut - France, Champagne, Le Mesnil Sur Oger, Champagne (6/7/2008)
    Typical 1996 high acid, almost painful to drink now, but with obvious depth in there somewhere to develop for many years to come. (90 pts.)
  • 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne (5/25/2008)
    Greg's bottle and what a beauty it is already. Almost all the DPs I've tasted young were disappointing; they seem to need many years to open up. But the heady mixture of pear, ginger, apple and baking spice flows out of this bottle even before the wine can reach the glass. It has that sensation of sweetness without sugar which is very enticing. And the finish does not disappoint, but I could not wait for it to fade before taking another sip - or another glass. (93 pts.)
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~stuart
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DavidG
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Re: TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by DavidG »

Wow, what a collection of notes on some great Champagnes!

Are you and Kathy able to polish off a bottle in an evening? The two of us can't. I usually put it the remains in the fridge for the next day. They are usually totally different by then, sometimes still very interesting. Do you have any special ritual for the leftovers?
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stefan
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Re: TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by stefan »

Wow! Stuart, I hope this note gets buried before Lucie sees it.

stefan
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sdr
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Re: TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by sdr »

DavidG wrote:Are you and Kathy able to polish off a bottle in an evening? The two of us can't. I usually put it the remains in the fridge for the next day. They are usually totally different by then, sometimes still very interesting. Do you have any special ritual for the leftovers?
Yes, the two of us can finish a bottle in one evening, but only if it is the sole wine that night, consumed slowly. We like it with any fish, especially shellfish, at home. But usually, we are taking a bottle to the restaurant to share with other people.

With this strategy, we never have any leftovers ;)

~stuart
Last edited by sdr on Sat Jul 04, 2009 3:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Jay Winton
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Re: TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by Jay Winton »

I usually open 3 bottles. One for the glass in my left hand, one for the glass in my right amd one for mrs vino. This works well for other wines as well.
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Nicklasss
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Re: TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by Nicklasss »

Nice notes Stuart. MC gave me a 1996 Henriot at fathers day. I really liked their Blanc Souverain, not so long ago. I hope that 1996 (glorious vintage in Champagne) will be good.

Nic
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Johan
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Re: TN: Champagne, champagne and more champagne

Post by Johan »

Stunning tasting, Stuart. In sheer desperation over that I missed the Salon 96 I picked up a six pack of the 97's for a devestating price. I should be ashamed.

Johan
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