Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

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Comte Flaneur
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Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Earlier this week we did a tasting of Bordeaux wines from so called unfashionable vintages from the 1990s: 1991, 1992, 1993, 1994 and 1997, except we could not source any 1992s. We think they all disappeared into the French supermarket sinkhole.

We had these wines, with the scores from the participants.
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Pontet Canet 1994 13 votes, Cheval Blanc 1993, 14 votes, Haut-Bailly 1997 17 votes and Haut Brion 1997 the clear winner with 31 votes. None of the others came close.

The Haut Brion had sensational aromatics and front end, while leaner in the back end, while the Haut-Bailly arguably had a a tad more fruit. The 1997 Leoville Barton, bare, acidic and VA-marred and the diffuse, sweet and unfocused 1997 Pichon Lalande were major disappointments - maybe poor bottles? The 1994 flight was solid. My pick was La Conseillante, which had that extra bit of class, while the L’Eglise-Clinet, was initially characterised by tinned fruit but then improved and became truffly. The Pontet-Canet was comfortable in its cardigan, slippers and pipe but hardly profound in my opinion. It has been on this level for a decade.

The 1993 Lafleur started out promisingly but did not in the end deliver, while by contrast the 1993 Cheval Blanc was all over the place to begin with but came on really strong at the finish, like a dark horse: never under-estimate Cheval Blanc. The 1993 La Conseillante was horribly corked. The two 1991s - Palmer and La Lagune - were old fashioned luncheon clarets, somewhat bare...difficult to choose between them because the Palmer (only 12% ABV) had the Margaux berries but was somewhat indifferent on the palate while the Lagune improved as it warmed up, and if anything pipped its flight mate to the post. I suspect if both were matched against their respective 1990s the differences would have been profound.
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SF Ed
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by SF Ed »

I don't find those results surprising at all. 1997 drinks just fine although a bit dilute, and Haut Brion is nearly always great. 1994 isn't so bad, and was pretty decent on the Right Bank. Pontet Canet is pretty decent as well.

SF Ed
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by JimHow »

interesting tasting, Ian, but there don't seem to be any wines from the best region/vintage during those years, the northern Medoc, especially Latour, Lynch, PLL, Cos, Montrose, GPL(?).
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Yes Jim the surprise was how poor were Leoville Barton and Pichon Lalande 1997. Perhaps bad bottles?
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by JimHow »

Oops, I meant those wines from vintage 1991....
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AlexR »

Ian posted this on the UK Wine Pages board, where I first saw it.

IMHO, age is a crucial factor here. There are lesser vintages that are hard, but mostly, if well made, they come around much sooner than the better years. This and their lower prices make them - not in all intances, agreed - quite attractive.

In other words, although such a thing cannot be proved, I am pretty certain that most of these wines would have tasted much better years ago. I salute the effort to give the wines a chance to shine, but I wish a similar tasting had been conducted with much younger wines that would have showed much better.

Best regards,
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Comte Flaneur
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Comte Flaneur »

I can see where you are coming from Alex, and you have a preference for drinking your wines young.

None of these wines will improve with age, and some would have been more vibrant ten years ago. A case in point in the Pontet-Canet 1994 which has turned into a bit of a dullard, and was more interesting ten years ago.

The wine which was in the perfect place and surely at its zenith was the Haut-Brion.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Nicklasss »

Very interesting and a tasting i guess not a lot would organize. From this specific tasting you did, with the 1997 in presence, it is respecting the well known fact that Graves area produce the best red Bordeaux in little vintages. Even famous norther Médoc couldn't hold the contest.

All smaller vintages, with over 20 years of age, seem like a not good mix.

I had some 1993, long ago, and enjoyed them, but they were all 13-14 years or younger.

From your report Comte, i think i will open my magnum of 2013 Montrose, that i bought for Béatrice my second daughter, in 2031 for her 18 years old birthday.

Nic
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by jal »

Were the 1991s any better ten years ago? Ever? I doubt it personally.
The 1993 and 1994 wines may have been better and may also have been so tannic as to be undrinkable. I don’t doubt what you’re saying about the 1994 Pontet Canet, Ian, but for every one of these, there’s a bottle of 1994 Médoc that would not be ready yet.
I like tastings like that, they’re always fun, I won’t draw conclusions about the vintage but maybe would about particular wines.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by stefan »

Sounds like a fun tasting.

In general, and on the left bank only, I thought 1991 was lousy, 1992 had a few pleasant wines that were light, 1993 produced some wines that had fabulous aromatics that rivaled 1978, 1994 was too hard for my taste, and 1997 was a true vintage that was flawed only by being light.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

Cool idea for a tasting. I've had some good 94's like Pontet Canet, and a bunch of Pomerols, but too much of the vintage grew hard and stony. At least I mostly drank them when young, but I did have that a 94 P-C recently, that had been saved since release, and I thought it was actually better than the 95 or 96. That was the vintage where I think Tesseron's really started to get the estate performing much better.

And even though oenophiles might consider certain vintages non collectable or what not, at the end of the day, Bordeaux makes very good wines, so there's a high a pretty high standard most of the time. Even wines that we might consider 80 pts are still enjoyable & drinkable, even if not memorable for decades. Between global warming, UC Davis scientific winemaking, robotic harvesting, and all the marvels of our time perhaps we will only have off vintages every few decades in Bordeaux going forward. And imagine what could happen if small changes in regulation were adopted (irrigation, ground cover, chaptalization etc.) they could be like Napa where one almost never has a bad year.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Comte Flaneur »

I have tasted very few 1991s. A Mouton over a decade ago was almost anorexic. The two we had last week bore the scars of a difficult vintage. I would imagine the Lagune would have been a prickly beast in its youth.

Pontet Canet 1994 impressed early because it began to drink well at an early age, while the other 94s were skulking in the corner. It has been overtaken in my opinion by other wines like GPL and Leoville-Barton which are very nice in that vintage now, but the Barton only started drinking well 3-4 years ago.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

1991 was most stellar in Napa!
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by CJD »

A tasting for the bravest amongst us.
I’m an off vintage buyer but having lived through these wines I ranked it as a low in the Bordeaux repertoire. I’d love to know from anyone who lived through the joys of young 70s Bordeaux to see how they compared - young.
I disagree that these wines were better in their youth. Back then they tasted stemy, lean & even with lashings of Brie & baguette so so tannic.
I reckon today I could still recognize a blind 1994 from the stem / green unripe profile.
1991 latour & les cases were very good.
1997 I tried to embrace somewhere around 2003, so a few years on. I had a case of the the reserve de la Pichon, amongst others. I found them drinkable but for some reason headache inducing. - I moved on.
So a low in my Bordeaux drinking. Forgivable of course & a reality check of how good they do now a days when global warming throws a cold wet wild card in their direction - 07, 08 very drinkable.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

What I really remember (and liked!) was being able to buy 92 and 93 l'Evangile for $35 back then. And those were pretty tasty, even if they got all guzzled up by the turn of the century. Cos was even less, and I liked those years too.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Comte Flaneur »

The Pichon Baron 1997 was deemed a success for the vintage. Farr Vintners knocked out several hundred cases of it but that was way back in the early 2000s.

At risk of slight thread drift we drank these two wines last night from vintages ending in ‘1’...1981 at least was supposed to be no great shakes, but the Malartic was full of beans and had an abundance of Graves typicity.

I would not describe the Bon Pasteur as being full of beans but more a dowager, a wine which has aged elegantly and which can still be enjoyed in its sunset years...1971 was not such a bad year on the RB.

The icing on the cake was that these wines, recently secured at auction, only cost an Ayrton Senna.

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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Blanquito »

I used to post on the 92 Talbot a lot once upon a time, as we went through cases of the stuff back in the day after my dad secured a bunch on close out in 1995 for $8 each.

This wine was shockingly good at around age 10-12 — complex, ethereal — but fell apart by age 15-16.

Sounds like your lot was holding up much better, Ian
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AlexR »

The only way to prove that "off vintages" are better younger would be to do a comparative tasting.

But that, of course, is impossible - except if one took wines from poorly-reputed years aged 3 décades compared to others one decade old.
I have little doubt as to the outcome.

As for the "stem, green, unripe" profile mentioned above, one those qualities do not disappear with age and two, as I put in my previous post, it takes good winemakers to makes the most of less-than-perfect fruit.
Obviously, there are some mediocre or even bad wines made at some estates in some years.

Also, less stellar vintages have a variety of defects. Yes, some can be "green and unripe", but others are diluted, acidic, flabby, or whatever in function of the weather.

Like the much-talked-about older vintages of Sociando Mallet, a wine's intrinsic flaws are not cured by ageing.
(of couse, the bell pepper aromatics are not seen as a flaw by everyone).

Best regards,
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by ericindc »

Interesting, I grabbed a 1994 Pontet Canet for dinner. It just started to come alive after 2 hrs in the decanter. Would have been interesting to follow in for a couple more hours. Overall... good, but not great. I was reminded of the term "luncheon claret"
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by DavidG »

I’ll admit it: I’m a vintage snob when it comes to Bordeaux. I bought zero in 1991, 1992, 1993, and very little in 1994 or 1997. I spent my wine money back then on California cults, all of which I’ve since dropped. It seems the off vintages since the turn of the century are not as frequent or as bad (2013 excepted) as those in the 90s and earlier.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by robert goulet »

Love these off vintages tastings...esp. when u uncover the gems.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Blanquito »

robert goulet wrote:Love these off vintages tastings...esp. when u uncover the gems.
Yes, wines like the 97 Poujeaux.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by DavidG »

robert goulet wrote:Love these off vintages tastings...esp. when u uncover the gems.
While I haven’t been a buyer of off vintage futures or on release, they are great for backfilling. Prices tend not to escalate, and there’s time to figure out which ones are the gems.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by jal »

We had this discussion before, Which wine is more enjoyable? One from a good producer in a mediocre vintage or one from a mediocre producer in a great vintage. I think I’ll go with the latter. Give me a 1998 Faugeres over a 1994 La Conseillante or l’Eglise Clinet.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

I think the true struggling producers are the ones which only get imported to the US in their peak vintages. I'd put Rauzan Gassies or Lynch Moussas more into that camp, rather than Faugeres.

Unless its some crazy closeout I just trip over, I don't think it makes much sense to cellar average or worse vintages, for a collector or enthusiast. If one was in the hospitality business and had a natural way of profiting off picking up lighter years for flashy labels I'd feel differently. I've read that a surprisingly large amount of Brunello gets sold BTG this way, since there is no natural home for - even discounted - the stuff if its not a top year.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Harry C. »

Were the labels seen or blinded?
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AlexR »

Hi Ian,

As someone who roots for the underdog, I think the theme your tasting was marvellous.
Your post was fascinating. I’ve always put 94 a notch above the other less fashionable vintages in the 90s, so I’m not really surprised at their showing.

The question springs to mind: might some of the wines have tasted much better if opened years ago? I’m known on the forum for liking wines younger than many of my fellow Bordeaux lovers, so that comment cannot come as a surprise.
Although poor, hard vintages exist, they are in the minority. The lesser years are usually early-maturing ones. The issue here, of course is: what’s young? Some people, on principle, won’t touch a classified growth until it’s at least 10-15 years old. Heck, I tend abide by that “rule” myself for the better-regarded years. However, vintages like 2007 and 2013 show best in my opinion on the young side, and my 91s, 92s, 93s, 94s, and 97s were consumed quite some time ago. I honestly don’t think I missed out on much.

All the best,
Alex
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Comte Flaneur »

Harry, no they were not served blind.

Alex, yes some of these would definitely have been better ten years ago, notably the 1993s. Most of them probably have not benefited from ageing beyond ten, except the Haut-Brion 1997, which I have tracked, and it is really singing now.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Claret »

1994 PLL yesterday at a dinner with 3 ex somms. I had enjoyed 3 bottles in the past and this bottle was singing. Mature with smooth tannins and happily consumed post Covid loss of taste and smell, now fully resolved.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

ex Somms drinking conventional stuff? not PetNat or Mondeuse?!
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by robert goulet »

Off vintage samplings over the last year.

Had the '94 la mish a couple months ago...killer classic pessac

'91 Mouton last year...really good stuff, aromatics were killing

'92 Montrose, good wine, but def. not a complex version

1993 Talbot (second label)...nice wine, classic, almost a loire profile

1993 D'issan....fuqn killer classic, celery juice and tobacco leaf....got this for pennies

'97 Potensac 4x all variable results with one being an outstanding classic claret.

I have the '93 Lafleur, yet to taste it though, sorry to see it didn't perform great here...darn

I love trying these off vintages, some really surprise to the upside.
Last edited by robert goulet on Sun May 22, 2022 9:50 pm, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by robert goulet »

I plan to pop a 1992 la tour haut brion sometime this yr.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

In retrospect, the 90's were much tougher than it seemed contemporaneously.

WS still rates the 1995 as some kind of outstanding/collectible year...and ignores the 96 Medocs and 98 Right Banks / Graves which ended up being far more cellar worthy and delightful.

We have not organized an 'off vintage' focused get together in more than 15 years, mostly because the feedback we would get from anyone who had to travel or take extra effort to meet up, than they much more preferred to share their 1990's vs. the years that came afterwards.

And of course nowadays, there aren't really any bad/off/cold years. Pretty amazing.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Claret »

AKR wrote: Sun May 22, 2022 3:49 pm ex Somms drinking conventional stuff? not PetNat or Mondeuse?!
Well, there was a Trousseau from San Benito County and an obscure French white varietal I was unfamiliar with from Willamette Valley.
Glenn
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by Musigny 151 »

My goodness, what a great idea for a tasting. It seems more interesting as an intellectual exercise than pleasurable, but it made for compelling reading, especially in the context of 2021, as it is being released.

The early nineties we’re miserable in Bordeaux, and it was a time when grapes were barely ripe, and often dilute. I believe 1991 was the first vintage where experiments were done using reverse osmosis. A little shard of memory makes me think it was Las Cases who was the pioneer. What I think is remarkable is how far we have come. I suspect had the Bordelais been dealing with 2021 using 1990s technology, it would not have turned out as successfully as it did.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by AKR »

I thought the 97 LLC was made using reverse osmosis, and it was discussed/mentioned at the time. Nowadays it seems like those machines are hidden, and such practices rarely mentioned, like chaptalization.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by robert goulet »

Almost forgot...

1997 Sociando
..had it 2x this year...absolutely fantastic classic claret

1997 Beau Sejour Becot....crisp, crunchy, tangy, tart cherries ❤
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by JimHow »

I’ve rarely been disappointed by 1997, although I gotta admit it has been a while since I’ve had one.
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Re: Tasting from unfashionable vintages from the 1990s

Post by JoelD »

I had the 1997 L'Eglise Clinet twice last year. Once on a Bwe zoom and it was wonderful both times. They were a steal at under 100 a piece. Some at the tasting thought too young, some thought too old. I thought they were in a great place. I've also had a few 94's that have been very pleasant surprises.
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