An evening of 1989 Bordeaux not blighted by TCA

[Comte Flaneur]

Last night we did a horizontal of 1989 Bordeaux, to celebrate this vintage in its 30th anniversary. I signed up for this even though I had ‘been there done that’ in Denver with the BWE family in March....we also did a 1989 dinner here in September 2018. The line up we had last night was pretty impressive and contained certain BWE legends.

After the bad experience with corked bottles of 1985 earlier in the week it was a huge relief that every bottle on the table last night was in fine fettle. Most of these wines I have tried several times over the years. I pulled out another LMHB, which went into the mix as the most highly rated and most expensive wine on the table. And revered especially across the pond, and lauded by the likes of Parker. All of which, for reasons I can’t really fathom seemed to trigger a somewhat negative dynamic with a couple in the group, which spread and therefore set up this up for a fall (tall poppy syndrome), so determined were they to diss it. I have never rated it as a so called 100 point wine but it has always been a joyous exuberant wine. The only two wines that I had not tried recently were the Latour and Margaux and given their lowly ratings many years ago by HWSNBN these were my candidates to be dark horses. And so it all proved.

Flight one: Cheval Blanc vs. L’Evangile

The wines in the first flight were the lowest rated according to CT - Cheval Blanc (92.6) and L’Evangile (92.1). Both ‘a point’ and marvellous, the Cheval blasted out of the blocks with its to-die-for decadent Cabernet Franc terroir infused-nose unique to Cheval Blanc. The palate, which is svelte and classy, has softened in the last decade and this is fully mature. It reminded me a bit of the 1985. For current drinking this was the clear winner last night in my book: ***** 96.

L’Evangile never caught up but at the same time was never far behind, and drank ever so beautifully. It is pure merlot-infused, so the nose is a notch below Cheval in excitement but the plate is plush, luxurious, silky and caressing and deeply exciting. Pretty close to its apogee. *****95.

Flight two: Palmer, Lynch and Baron

The next flight featured what could loosely be described as ‘super seconds’ but only one was actually a second growth. All of these wines I have tried multiple times. The Palmer has that spectacular trademark floral berry nose, the second best of the night, but is stricter on the palate and almost lean compared to its flight mates. What it has that they lack is elegance. This Palmer is still getting there and is not yet the equal of the 1983, but it may get there in time. ****(1/2) 94 (CT 94.2)

The Lynch Bages is a behemoth. Big, mouthfilling, rumbustious and brawny. Graphite, creosote, and glaciated cherries contribute to an immense palate presence. It will probably improve but this wine cannot really thought of as a classic claret. It is in a world of its own. Great fun to drink, it still needs at least one Blanquito. ****(1/2) 94 (CT 94.5). The Baron is cut from similar cloth and marked by its ripeness, abundant tannins and thick texture, something you also get on the 1990. It too was fashioned by Jean-Michel Cazes and neither is it ‘classic’ claret. **** 93 (CT 93.8)

Flight three: LMHB, Latour, Margaux and Mouton

On to the first growth flight, and the clear winner was ... La Mission. Fabulously bright and expressive nose, carried forward to the palate where there is so much going on. The palate is inviting and silky smooth, with smoky scorched earth, fabulous depth, breadth and poise, but at the same time remarkable finesse and elegance, and an epic finish. There was nothing wrong with this bottle, even though some were determined to find faults with it, and might have been imagining flaws that weren’t really there. Consistent with previous experiences with this wine. ***** 96 (CT 96.8). (Others in the group variously criticised this wine for being over alcoholic/having too much heat, or for being thin on the mid-palate. I think they are confusing thinness for the wine’s elegance, which juxtaposes against its exuberance, which is part of what makes it such a great wine. In my opinion this bottle was pretty much a carbon copy of the one we drank in Denver.)

The Latour was a strapping wine with a bit of saddle leather. It is a great mouthful of Latour but I found it a bit clunky, with burly tannins and big structure. A bit uncouth for a first growth and a disappointment next to the great wines made at Latour in 1988 and 1990, which are superior to this 1989. But still huge fun: **** 93 (CT 92.9). I was astonished when the voting revealed this to be the group’s favourite. I don’t think Frederic Engerer would be proud of this wine, or would want to show case this as a great Latour, even if it pre-dated his arrival at the estate. I would wager that this would not have been the group’s wotn had they been served this blind and not clocked the label.

The Margaux had the shiest of noses, almost mute, but with coaxing it gradually opened up. This was en era when Paul Pontallier was fashioning uncompromising, backward, tannic wines. It has a lot of structure, richness and substance on the palate, almost the anthesis of the Palmer. This will continue to evolve, and was the most backward wine last night but one of the most impressive. ****(*) 95 (94.2 CT)

The Mouton is an old friend, which has been drinking well for quite a few years but suffers from bottle variability. This was a good but not outstanding bottle, with soy and pleasing red fruits, but a little simple and lacking compared to its flight mates, especially against the sophistication and class of the Mission **** 93 (93.7 CT).

The Yquem was alarmingly dark and evolved. **** 92 (95.2 CT)

My rankings:

1. Cheval Blanc, 2. LMHB, 3. Margaux, 4. L’Evangile, 5. Lynch, 6. Palmer, 7. Latour, 8. Baron, 9. Mouton, 10. Yquem.

Group rankings:

1. Latour, 2. Cheval, 3. Palmer, 4. Margaux, 5. LMHB, 6. Mouton, 7. L’Evangile, 8. Lynch, 9. Baron

[JCNorthway]

Great line-up, and thanks for sharing your notes. The only one of those I have is the Margaux (wedding year) and I have only one left. It sounds like I might want to hold it a bit longer.

[stefan]

This tasting more than made up for the disappointing experience with the 85s. Great notes.

[jckba]

That’s a killer lineup and thanks for sharing as I fully appreciate your notes.

[Blanquito]

Just had another 89 GPL when MichaelP was in town, my first since BWE Denver when I was impressed with the wine. This bottle was nearly as good, shy on the nose but filled with Pauillac goodness - graphite, leather, cassis. A touch lean but otherwise a classic.

[jal]

Aaaaah memories of Fabio and that incredible 1989 Bordeaux tasting in NYC back in 2009, probably the wine dinner by which all wine dinners will be compared to

[DavidG]

Terrific group of wines, thanks for sharing. I still have a few '89s left, Lynch Bages among them. It still seems too young.

[Blanquito]

I agree David, the top 89s will all benefit from more time.

[Nicklasss]

Amazing and thanks for reporting Comte.

The 1989 extravaganza in BWE Denver was really something. It tough to understand how many made great wines, but some First Growth seem to no hit the stars.

Nic

[Claret]

I am a big fan of 89's.

I have a single of 89 Latour and have never tried any. In fact I have very little Latour experience. Is the 89 Latour in need of another 5-10 years of ageing?

[Winona Chief]

Glenn,

Why don’t you ask Blanquito how many Blanquitos it needs now?

Chris Bublitz

[Claret]

Que esta un Blanquito?

[stefan]

Cinco años más, Glenn.

[Claret]

Gracias stefan.