Looking for red burgs: Robert Chevillon any good?

[Blanquito]

Trying to get a few red burgs before the buying freeze kicks in. I see some recent vintages of Robert Chevillon single vineyards Nuits St Georges.

Is this a legit producer?

[JCNorthway]

I made purchases from a few vintages between 2000-2010 and always thought it was good quality. I think they tend to be slow to develop compared to some. The last purchase was the basic Bourgogne from 2010, which I think is still not in its drinking window.

[stefan]

Robert Chevillon: Buy, buy, buy!

[jal]

I had some bret issues with some Chevillon NSG, may have been more the exception than the rule. In any case, the bret blows off quickly enough.

[marcs]

Trying to get a few red burgs before the buying freeze kicks in. I see some recent vintages of Looking for red burgs: Robert Chevillon single vineyards Nuits St Georges.

Is this a legit producer?

Tired: BWE posters agree to do a buying freeze!

Wired: BWE posters use "buying freeze" as an excuse to BUY EVEN MORE!

In answer to your basic question: Chevillon is as legit as it gets and one of the better producers still available for under $100 for recognized premier crus. They have still inflated noticeably in recent years but specializing in Beaune-side premier crus helps keep the prices down.

[DavidG]

How true Marcs. The Academy holiday office party is in DC tomorrow. I may use it as an excuse to pick up some under-the-wire purchases at Macarthur's or Calvert Woodley. I see Kogod Liquors is right around the corner from the office but selections seem limited and prices seem high. Looks like they have more interesting whisky and bourbon than wine.

[Nicklasss]

I agree marcs : that 2020 buying freeze is the BWE joke of the year 2019.

Chevillon is excellent.

Nic

[Blanquito]

Marcs et al: you are of course correct— this is silly! But if I can go a WHOLE YEAR (starting January 1st, mind you) buying only one mixed case + some 1971s and 1980s birthyears, virtually nothing I do this December can obviate the great victory in the war against buying wine we don’t need that will represent. If you (and our spouses) doubt our resolve in the new year, who could blame you? But it is a brave new world! And Jim will lead us unto the promised land.

[Comte Flaneur]

Patrick

As noted a very legit - and excellent - producer, who makes traditional, stern, masculine NSGs. They do take a long time to come round, however. I took out some 2006 Cailles this year which I regretted because it needs at least one Blanquito.

[JCNorthway]

The words traditional, stern, masculine are very apropos for Chevillion - in a really good way.

[Blanquito]

Chevillon sounds great, right up my alley. I’m on the hunt.

Thanks gents.

[jal]

Before spending money on Robert Chevillon, I have to tell you I'm not a huge fan. I think it's good enough but frankly, I prefer Gouges as being more approachable and if I could buy only one Nuits St Georges it will be Mugnier Clos de La Marechale.
My two cents.

[Claudius2]

Folks
I like Chevillon but I don’t really think of them as traditional in style. I have not had any Brett issues with them but they tend to be powerful though fruity. Given that they are worthy wines with plenty of body. Unfortunately they are very expensive in Singapore and go for high prices even in lesser years. I used to buy them in Sydney on pre-arrival though Sydney prices are even higher.

[stefan]

Chevillon tends to do well in lesser vintages. In particular, both his 2003 and 2004 NSG were very good, approachable young, and not very expensive. Unfortunately, Chevillon has become popular and now often his 1er crus are as expensive as Mugnier Clos de La Marechale.

[jal]

This is turning into an interesting topic about Burgundy preferences. Me, I prefer elegance, perfume, and enough body to stand up to a meal, in which case Mugnier ticks my boxes. Chevillon's wines, I find have more depth and structure at the expense of elegance. Call it feminine vs masculine if you want.
Comes down to what do you want in red Burgundies, Patrick. Obviously, you should try before you buy if you can.

[stefan]

I think our tastes in Burgundy are not so different, Jacques. Unfortunately, I cannot afford to drink Musigny very often. It took me a while to understand NSG, but now I like the appellation. I don't look for the elegance and fragrance there that I seek in Chambolle.

[jal]

Ah, Stefan, but Mugnier delivers elegance and fragrance in his NSG. I have very few left unfortunately.
Who can afford Musigny anymore? the release price has gone up from $75 to > $1,000, and it's impossible to find!!
Even Chambolles Village is getting up there, let alone 1ers

Right now to stay somewhat sane, I'm buying Village wines from good vintages hoping producers will perform. My last purchase was some 2014 Bachelet Gevrey Chambertin

[JCNorthway]

The price escalation of Burgundy wines makes it really difficult for anyone below the "2 percenters" to justify the cost. My last purchase of multiple cases of Burgundy was the 2005 vintage, in which I bought several premier crus and 2 grand crus (half case of each). Since that time, I have not bought a lot, but what I have purchased is mostly village wines (or Bourgognes for everyday drinking).

[stefan]

Of course I do not buy Musigny any more. I'll have to try Mugnier Clos de La Marechale, which is sometimes south of $100. Expensive, but if it is better than Chevillon's 1er Cru NSG I will be happy to drink it when I am tired of OR PN.

[jal]

Stefan, we will be in Israel from April 3, 2020 till sometimes in July, if you're going to be there, I'll bring a bottle of Mugnier NSG Marechale to share

[Comte Flaneur]

I think we can all agree that the wines of Chevillon are masculine and, of course, traditional. I would liken Chevillon to the spiritual twin of Leoville-Barton in St-Julien, in the traditional sense, but also in the sense of being consistently reliable. Chevillon in particular, and NSG more generally, defines the masculinity spectrum in burgundy in my experience. Perhaps Chambolle Musigny the feminine spectrum, I would hesitate to choose a producer that most defines the feminine bound. Much as I love the masculine styles in NSG but also some of the foursquare Gevrey-Chambertins the feminine style turns me on most.

[stefan]

Sounds good to me, Jacques. Most likely we will be in Israel part of that time. I am not planning to go in the winter, btw.

[Winona Chief]

Patrick,

Count me as a fan of Chevillon - my favorite producer in NSG. Their 2002 Bousselots (one of their least expensive) is wonderful - one of my wines of the year a couple years ago. Of course, this is just my preference and taste in Burgundy can vary widely even amongst sophisticated wine drinkers.

Chris Bublitz

[Claudius2]

Folks
Interesting that most here consider Chevillon to be traditional.
Maybe I am getting old as Robert Chevillon has become something of a star in Burgundy particularly for his NSG 1ers.
I agree that the wines are well structured and long lived，though they offer depth of fruit and develop very well.
Since my last post I checked the prices of recent vintages at local retailers and the 1ers Crus such as Vaucrains, Cailles etc are $200 to $300 (or 150 to 240 greenbacks) which left me a little deflated.
My approach over the last few yrs has to backfill recent top vintages at auction as I watch the retail prices increase. To think I used to be able to buy Chambertin by the pallet load for $A30.

[Comte Flaneur]

Mark, with all due respect I suspect you are in a small minority - possibly of one - on this. Maybe you have a different concept of ‘traditional’ than others, but as far as I gather in wine it is generally understood to be first and foremost about ageing characteristics, but also emphasis on the terroir of that particular region and the extent to which the producer continues to rely on tried and tested techniques.

In my experience, which is considerable with this producer, Chevillon is about as trad as it gets. The wines are true to their terroir, very age worthy, in fact frustratingly so in some instances, and they are parsimonious with their use of oak, I think it depends on cru but typically only 20% new oak. Yes the wines have good fruit characteristics but these are wines more noted for their structure and acidity.

You would ever mistake a Chevillon for a new world Pinot for example. In my opinion and that of experts in the region, Chevillon is a standard bearer for Nuits Saint Georges. By contrast, I think one ubiquitous characteristic of ‘modern’ wines is that it is often difficult to figure out where they come from.

I went to visit the estate with Alex and an Aussie burgundy enthusiast Ian Westcott from Melbourne in 2017 - do you know him? - and walking into Denis and Bertrand’s tiny cold cellar was like a time warp, taking us back decades. No fancy equipment in sight.

The contrast between traditional and modern winemaking has over the years been most pronounced in Piedmont. Some of the best Barolos I have drunk have been 50 years old, so it is not surprising that some producers adopted modern techniques to make their wines more approachable young.

I would certainly concede that in Barolo as elsewhere the distinction between traditional and modern has become somewhat less relevant as producers converge on the best of both, but the distinction is still valid. As for example producers who pride their tradition adopt modern techniques which do not undermine the defining characteristics of their wine.

Getting back to Chevillon I have tasted vintages up to 2015 and I have not detected any stylistic change. I have some 2015s in my cellar and I not sure I will live long enough to see them mature fully.

[Claudius2]

Ian
I don't know Ian Westcott personally but he was one of the people who bought Burgundies thru a private club that I was also a member of some years ago.
I lived in Sydney for all my years in Australia. I think there were about 20-30 members at the time. It is still going now as I get some tasting notes from winery visits and events.
I've been in Singapore for 10 years now and have continued to bring in a few producers notably Remoissenet into Singapore that were purchased through the club.

Can I elaborate a little on my experiences of Chevillon.
I think he is one of the very best producers of NSG and overall, makes wines that are excellent examples of Burgundy.
The wines offer fruit intensity as well as a tannic structure.
And maybe that is why I don't really see them as "traditional". And I certainly would not say that they are "new world" in style at all, though there are so many styles of PN in the world these days that descriptors are getting a little worn out.

I have on occasion opened Chevillon 1er Cru NSG's that drank remarkably well young. They had plenty of structure but the fruit was so good that they seemed so balanced and friendly.
I also think that their combination of fruit intensity and structure is what has made them very popular (and now expensive) in numerous markets.
Back in the 90's, an Sydney based importer started to bring in his wines, and I was immediately impressed by their structure and fruitiness. They showed finesse to my palate.
I have always liked NSG wines in any case, but they can be rather burly and stern when young. But not Chevillon. To my Australian palate, they never fitted into a "modern" or "traditional" dichotomy as they show characters of both.
So to me, "traditional" NSG needs some time before it is integrated. So I think it is fair to say that Chevillon has characteristics of both.

At the moment, I don't have a single Chevilon bottle which is a pity.
Prices has been progressively edging up - and they are even more expensive in Australia than in Singapore due to the various tax regimes (though higher freight costs would add a little more).
I have bid on a few lots of Chevillon at auction here but have consistently been outbid.
Though I will keep trying in the meantime.

Not sure if you have tried many Australian PN's.
I have to say that few suit my Burgundy loving palate, though they have progressively improved over the years as the vines age and the makers hone their skills.

[AlexR]

I have visited Chevillon 4 or 5 times and like the wines very much, especially when value for money is taken into consideration.

As for Gouges, the wines are tough in their youth compared to Chevillon.

I consider Chevillon one of the top producers in NSG and have a number of bottles maturing in my cellar.

Furthermore, Chevillon wines don't have that earthy "goût de terroir" found in the wines of many other producers in Nuits.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[Comte Flaneur]

I asked Ian Westcott for his thoughts on Chevillon and he is clearly a big fan, which is why he visits most years with Alex. He characterised Chevillon wines as “Medium weight, lovely fruit reflective of their terroir. Consistently very high quality. Traditional but not rustic.”

The word rustic may be instructive. According to the Wine Spectator: A “rustic” wine is one that can be described as hearty, earthy or rough-edged. The opposite of a rustic wine would be one that's refined, elegant or smooth. “Rustic” is also a good way to describe tannins that have a chewy or coarse texture.

Perhaps one could add that rustic wines are not generally noted for either being fruit forward or for the quality of their fruit.

I agree you would not describe these wines as rustic, even though sometimes the tannins can be quite ferocious.

I will bring a bottle down to Bordeaux in March so we can analyse it over the Sunday night dinner.

Regarding Aussie Pinots the only one I have experienced recently is Kooyong Ferrous. As the name suggests it has an interesting ferrous note. I had some 2009s and had to drink them up quickly because they started to fall apart.

Any you would recommend? I am not generally a fan of Kiwi Pinots. I find many of them lack finesse and difficult to drink after one or two glasses. The best New World Pinot I have tried is from Rhys in California. Apparently there are some excellent Swiss Pinots, which are expensive.

On a side note last night I drank a 2000 Dominique Laurent Vosne Romanée Suchots. Now you certainly would not call traditional.

[Chateau Vin]

Agree with Alex's take on Chevillon. The only thing I would differ is about pricing, atleast on the stateside. They have crept up a bit in the past few years, especially post 2012, and my last purchase was 2010 or 2011 I believe...

[Claudius2]

Ian,
When I hear "lovely fruit" I don't really think of traditional Burgundy, especially from NSG.
I DO have some Gouges NSG's and I have learned not to open them for some time.
I have a case of 2005's that I will leave for some years. Also have some NSG Blanc which I have never tried and bought on a whim.

Just after my last post, I logged into Winefields Auctions in Amsterdam. They have an office in Singapore and I buy from both the Sg sales and also from Amsterdam.
I bid on 10 bottles of 1997 Chevillon NSG 1er Cru Roncieres. I rarely buy 22 yr old Burgs but the notes were that colour, level and condition were excellent.
I did not buy.
It went for E65 per bottle, which you then add 20% sales commission to that, and the cost of freight, duties and the like to Singapore (about E15).
So even at auction, the landed price would have been E93 a bottle or around $S140.
I also checked a local retailer I sometimes buy en primeur from, and the Les Saint Georges was $S252 to $S296 depending on the vintage.
So I will just keep my eye out for the time being.

[stefan]

Did Chevillon produce good wine in 1997? He is known for doing well in problem vintages, but somehow I never drank any of his 1997s.

[Claudius2]

Stefan
It has been a while since I drank any 1997s, let alone Chevillon, but I do recall his 97's to be very fruit forward and quite delicious when young. I don't remember much else but they drank well in the mid to late 00's.
Had it been 96 or 99, I would have kept bidding, but my concern with 97 was that they lacked the structure for long ageing. They were less acidic and the tannins were softer than either 96 or 99.

[Blanquito]

I know so little about red burgundy. But John Gilman — whom I think of as having a very traditionally centered palate — is a huge fan of Chevillon’s reds.

That and the fact that a bunch of these from 2011 and 2013 were going for ~$50 a pop at auction made me interested. This thread may have caused a run, because after languishing for a few auction cycles, most of them got snapped up. I ended up with one lone bottle.

[Blanquito]

This is what I won: one bottle of the 2013 Robert Chevillon NSG Les Perrieres for $70.56 all-in after the buyers premium. Gilman gave it 93 or 94 pts, FWIW.

[JCNorthway]

So is BWE moving markets again?

[marcs]

Chevillon is very good, back when they were consistently in the $40-60 range they were one of the great Burgundy bargains. I bought quite a few but am now down to just six bottles left. Ian's take of “Medium weight, lovely fruit reflective of their terroir. Consistently very high quality. Traditional but not rustic.” is right on, they have very pretty and happy-making fruit and don't have that tough, mineral quality sometimes associated with "traditional" in Burgundy.

With that said I dropped out of buying them once prices rose to three figures or close to it. They are really nice wines but in my admittedly limited experience don't hit the high peaks needed to justify those prices. I had a similar experience with d'Angerville, although their style is different.

I wouldn't be unhappy getting some at $70, not a screaming bargain but that is a fair price IMO. 2013 is an underrated vintage too, although inconsistent.