2009 Malescot Exupery

[marcs]

I had like 3-4 bottles of this when it was very young, like in 2011 through 2013, and it was just tremendous. Actually one of the more memorable young Bordeaux I’ve had. It had really intense fruit and just electric acidity that seemed to light up the fruit from within, so vivid. It definitely had a new world type feel to it, less traditional, but it was so damn yummy you forgave it (or I did, not everybody — the redoubtable critic John Gilman slapped it with an 82)

I was so enamored with it I bought quite a bit at the near-release prices and even after burning a bottle tonight I have half a dozen left.

Today it is quite different than it was at release, darker, maybe cruder, and the acidity is no longer in the forefront. A heavier wine, stewed plums, verging on figs and prunes but not quite that heavy. Hints of chocolate with the super-dark fruit, from one perspective it has a certain “deliciousness” characteristic of heavy, fruity wines. But it also had a slightly crude quality that got stronger the longer it was open. The fruitiness of 2009 may conceal wines being shut down. In any case, I am no longer as enamored as when it was young. Maybe Gilman had a point.

One thing I noticed is that despite being stood up for like three days before drinking, this had a LOT of sediment. Like, little black specks left behind on every sip. Perhaps that added to the impression of some crudeness

I am going to sit on my remaining bottles a while before opening the next

[AKR]

I remember the 2000 drinking really awesomely on release, and never really finding it to have recovered that richness as time went on. It's not an estate I get to taste often.

[OrlandoRobert]

I continue to remain firm in my belief - and that’s after well over 100 of these modern darlings at release to 18-20 years of maturity (starting with some 1998-2000 modern wines) - that for my palate very few of them ever get better and most get worse. Some admittedly can be alluring on release, especially in larger tasting settings, where you are comparing some more precocious modern wines to classics like Leoville Barton. I ultimately cleared out most from my cellar and truly avoid them like the plague now. A recent 2000 La Fleur de Bouard showed poorly, as has just about every Pavie that I have tried over the last 5-7 years. Now that said, every now and then one sneaks by and impresses me, though definitely a wine from excellent terroir: 2005 Clos Fourtet. That wine was also enjoyed with a rich Italian meal, so some context to perhaps offset the richness.

If you want some hedinism in your wine, but with a more balanced and classical approach, venture to Pomerol. That region has not been ruined like St. Emilion.

[Nicklasss]

Thanks for the report marcs.

I don't have the 2009 Malescot, but have the best vintage before (2005) and after (2016). Never tried them yet. I saw too that our Provincial liquor store has the 1995 available for 178 $cad.

That 2009 that you had seems like a mystery. I thought the 2009 would not close with their rich ripe fruit style, but maybe it is the case. And your point is good: how long to wait? Orlando's answer is what I think too, that 18-20 years are now needed with these extra concentrated fruit modern Bordeaux. But I hope I'm wrong, not having that type of patience...

Happy Holidays to you and your little family.

Nic

[Racer Chris]

I have 3 bottles of the 2014 and am hopeful that the classic vintage will offset the modern style somewhat.

[jckba]

Thanks for the note and I too bit on 6er after having fallen for it at that respective years UGC and I haven’t tasted it since so all I can really say is we shall see —

[Blanquito]

I dumped my bottles of the 2005 Malescot, without trying, after K&L told me they could auction them for $140 each.

[Comte Flaneur]

Count me as someone who dislikes the style of these wines. I offloaded my case of 2004 last year.

[marcs]

If you want some hedinism in your wine, but with a more balanced and classical approach, venture to Pomerol. That region has not been ruined like St. Emilion.

LOL I take your point but see also my recent posting on the 2008 L'Eglise Clinet.

[marcs]

That 2009 that you had seems like a mystery. I thought the 2009 would not close with their rich ripe fruit style, but maybe it is the case. And your point is good: how long to wait? Orlando's answer is what I think too, that 18-20 years are now needed with these extra concentrated fruit modern Bordeaux. But I hope I'm wrong, not having that type of patience...

Happy Holidays to you and your little family.

Nic

I don't think there's any real mystery with this wine, it is not exactly closed as people normally describe it, it is still overtly "rich" and has that plummy/chocolatey style, it has just become more muddled, heavier, and lost definition with time. I am hoping that age can bring back some complexity as the tannins recede.

[OrlandoRobert]

Ouch Marc, and that’s some expensive shi’ite!

Been a one time since I have had one of those.

[JimHow]

I brought a 2004 Malescot among others to the annual lawyer holiday party.
It was pretty uninteresting. Indeed, I think these should be drunk young.
I’ll drink up the other seven bottles in my cellar pretty soon.

[Claudius2]

Guys
I have full cases of the 2009 and 2010 that I bought en primeur. Given the comments I’ll leave it for several years and if it tastes like the description above I’ll send it to auction. I have not tried either but bought after rave reviews.

[brodway]

Arv
Are you suggesting I get cracking on my 2000 Malescot?

[AKR]

Yes

[dstgolf]

Claudius,

I wouldn't rush that sale. I'm not in agreement and have enjoyed the 00,03,04,05 06, & 09. The 09 I have not had for two years but was delicious two years ago just to see where it was at and I thought it would be delicious going forward but needed a little more smoothing out of the tannins.. I have no question this wine will be a winner even if New world style.

Jim,

Yes the 04s across the board are a little disappointing right now Jim and I'm not sure if they are hopefully in an awkward phase and will come around....fingers crossed.

[Claudius2]

Dstgolf
I really hope you are right but I am happy to wait it out in the meantime.
As for 2004 I’ve found them to be rather angular and some are still unbalanced and rather hard. I would not buy any more and would not bet on them really coming into balance. The British wine writers such as Jancis Robinson and Decanter magazine seemed to like them young but maybe they won’t be as fine as expected. An example was Lascombes, a wine I never bought en primeur until 04 and I never liked it. Rather tart, almost coarse with too much acid for the fruit.

[Chateau Vin]

Last year I had the 2008 version, and I find it similar to your experience, marcs. With all the hype for the 2015 version, I got 2 splits to check the billing. But I suspect, they need to be drunk young in comparison to its commune brethren...

[Ianjaig]

Last year I had the 2008 version, and I find it similar to your experience, marcs. With all the hype for the 2015 version, I got 2 splits to check the billing. But I suspect, they need to be drunk young in comparison to its commune brethren...

I had my 2 x 2008's both within the last couple of years. I didn't dislike them necessarily, just found them to be somewhat underwhelming..