Christmas and New Year wines

[Comte Flaneur]

Louis Michel Les Clos 2006 - perfectly resolved and clean GC Chablis, not on the same level as a great Cote D’Or GC, however, but delightful all the same. 91

Gazin 1961 - recently acquired at auction - the upside was that it could have been like neighbouring Petrus 1961 - it wasn’t: but, still very much alive albeit well into retirement. 87

L’Evangile 1995 - outstanding quality, litheness and raciness the 98s lack; benchmarked against this the Gazin was found wanting, like comparing a Lotus Evora to an old MG, 94

JL Chavy Puligny-Montrachet Perrieres 2016 - good, fully ready, will not make old bones, prefer the Neillon Chassagne Vergers 2014 we have been racing through before they blow a gasket. 91

Batailley 2006 - riveting classic Pauillac attack, some harshness/unresolved tannin on the back of the palate, however; give it a few more years, or drink it with roast lamb. 88

Rockford Basket Press Shiraz 1992 - alive but gloopy/lacking in focus. Has not aged gracefully; I think this might have been better a decade ago when the fruit would have been to the fore. 87

Jamet Côte Rotie Fructus Voluptas 2010 - fun and fruity but not much substance of the palate; pales against the GV (superb in 2010) and really is a dumbing down of the brand. 85

Arnoux-Lachaux Chambolle-Musigny 2008 - the 2006 tried at the Sampler was delightful, this is thicker and in an awkward phase, and does not really resemble Chambolle-Musigny. 86

Lukas van Loggernberg Kameraderie Chenin Blanc 2017 (Paarl, South Africa) - as always just excellent, SA Chenins are the real deal, 92

Blank Bottle Epileptic Inspiration Semillon 2016 (Elgin, South Africa) - likewise; a stalwart, 92

Cullen Diane Madeline 2005 (Margaret River cab, one of Australia’s most renowned producers) - this came out of the blocks like Ben Johnson with celestial pure red fruits. But it flatters to deceive somewhat being low in acidity and quite high in alcohol (14%) and half way in it becomes cloying. A classic example of a new world Cabernet lacking the balance of good claret. 90

Penfolds Grange 1996 - a colossus. I hate to use this word but it is awesome - in the true meaning of the word. Such power it could blow away whole cities. But it has a finessed side to it as well, and has trademark pure Grange Barossa fruit. Huge fun to drink now it will last several decades: 14% ABV, 97.

Pape Clement 1998 (rouge) - first bottle out of a case I pulled out of storage two weeks ago. Well into its drinking window. Trademark Graves attributes, medium-full, clean but not overly modern, in fact more traditional. Loved it. 93

Vieux Chateau Certan 1998 - likewise. This is resolved but less exotic, kinky and interesting than I expected. Second half of the bottle tonight. 91?

Tonight

De Saint Gall, Grand Cru Champagne 2012
PYCM Meursault Perrieres 2011
La Tache 1996 - excuse: label is scraggy and badly torn, I am going on a fast so may as well go out with a bang.

[stefan]

Louis Michel is my favorite Chablis producer.

Glad to hear that the 1998 Pape Clement is ready. That it outperforms 2998 VCC is impressive.

[Ianjaig]

Penfolds Grange 1996 - a colossus. I hate to use this word but it is awesome - in the true meaning of the word. Such power it could blow away whole cities. But it has a finessed side to it as well, and has trademark pure Grange Barossa fruit. Huge fun to drink now it will last several decades: 14% ABV, 97.

Thanks for your notes. I was particularly interested in your comments on the 1996 Grange. I don't drink a lot of Aussie wine (cant remember the last time I did in fact) but I do have a 97 Grange in my cellar. I wasn't overly excited about it to be honest, but based on your experience, will look forward to popping it open sometime. Cheers.

[DavidG]

Nice Ian, Happy New Year!

[jal]

Happy New Year Ian,
Lots of great wines, good luck with the fast! That's how you go out with a bang. Looking forward to the notes in two months
I also love Louis Michel, my favorite Chablis producers are in the following order: Ravenneau, Dauvissat, Fevre, Bilaud Simon and Louis Michel, but Pinson is getting better and better.
Just had my last 2014 Niellon Vergers yesterday and it was absolutely delicious. What a wine that was!
Note to self: Stay away from Jamet's wines except for the Cote Rôtie GV
Gotta try some SA Chenin Blancs.

[Blanquito]

Great stuff, Ian. Happy 2020 wine fast! I will be with you in spirit, fasting this month as stated, except for a wine dinner in NYC on 1/15 with JC, Ramon, Dale and my bro.

I have had great luck with Billaud Simon since ~2004, when Premier Cru started "selling" them. My two cases of 2010 Billauds are still going strong, not a poxed bottle yet.

[Comte Flaneur]

Thanks all, Happy New Year and good luck if you are abstaining.

It’s like the old joke:

Q: What is the definition of a bear market?

A: It is when the kids get no toys, the wife gets no jewellery and the husband gets no sex (substitute in, is not allowed to buy wine).

We did go out with a bang last night

The 2011 PYCM Meursault Perrieres has evolved into a gorgeous wine, right in the sweetspot.

The 1996 La Tache was spectacular, the third and best bottle yet. Immense and dizzying it is continuing to evolve, and now within 5 years of its plateau of maturity. Taking notes seemed somehow pointless and irrelevant. Scoring even less so but if you have to an easy 100 points.

However the surprise package was an incredible and impeccable bottle of 1989 Huet Vouvray Cuvee Constance, just 11.5% ABV.

And now for my pasta and fizzy water...

[brodway]

L'Evangile is a beauty in 95 and 98....drank my last bottle a year ago and haven't bought any recently as the price has gradually taken me out of the market for the wine.

[Nicklasss]

Amazing. Évangile, alwaysva treat.

Two wines I still need to try : Grange and Vega Sicilia.

And the 1996 DRC no slouch either.

Happy 2020 Ian.

Nic

[Jay Winton]

Nice lineup!

[AKR]

glorissimo