It was my biennual time to present a wine theme to the local wine group so I decided to do a champagne theme with Dom Pérignon. There are now a few different types of Dom Pérignon since along with the standard white (now called P1) and Rosé, there are two late disgorged versions of each, termed P2 (at about age 18) and ultra rare P3 (at about age 30). I was able to source some of each except for P3. I hoped to discover both how well Dom Pérignon ages and if I could determine a consistent house style.
- 2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne Legacy Edition Label - France, Champagne
Very pale, very delicate, very beautiful. Lilac aroma. No toast, no yeast, just crystalline expression of flowers. Beautiful balance, not too acidic and already a treat to drink. (93 pts.) - 2004 Dom Pérignon Champagne - France, Champagne
Considerably more developed than the ‘08 in a positive direction. Fuller, deeper even if still very youthful. Possibly not quite a nuanced as the younger sibling. Charming and delightful. Drink this before the ‘08 and let the infant sleep if you can. (93 pts.) - 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne Andy Warhol Label - France, Champagne
Seems somehow even younger than the ‘04. Very shy and citric but not too acidic. Hasn’t budged since release. Nice though, and poised for the distant future. (92 pts.) - 2002 Dom Pérignon Champagne P2 - France, Champagne
Much more approachable than the P1. Fuller and richer but not by much but it’s therefore easier to drink it now. It too should develop well in the next decade or two. (93 pts.)
- 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
Only Dom Pérignon can taste so young at almost a quarter of a century. There’s some evidence of maturity yet it’s still delicate and citric. A very fine Dom Pérignon to drink now but no rush at all. While some of the 1996 champagnes are become erratic the Dom Pérignon has been very consistent since release. (92 pts.) - 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Oenothèque - France, Champagne
The first Dom Pérignon in the series to display a bit of toast and it adds welcome complexity. The extra aging on the lees gives the Oenotheque more depth and more flavor. Really excellent for drinking now since it has the vivacity of youth and a hint of age. (93 pts.) - 1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon Rosé - France, Champagne
Delightful Rosé. Despite a puzzling lack of fragrance there’s plenty of rosé character on the palate to distinguish it from the white version. Which you prefer is just a matter of taste. (93 pts.) - 1996 Dom Pérignon Champagne Rosé P2 - France, Champagne
Beautiful again and a noticeable if small step up from the P1. More of everything - red fruit, concentration, sucrosité. Gentle and elegant, decent mousse. (94 pts.) - 1995 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
The group seems to have picked this as their favorite Dom Pérignon of the tasting but I was not quite as impressed. Nevertheless it’s very fine and beautifully balanced. A bit of age shows yet it’s fresh and energetic. The years have tamed the bubbles some but they are tiny and plentiful. Even if you prefer your champagne young you can enjoy this middle aged version. (93 pts.)
- 1990 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
Finally a Dom Pérignon which is fully mature without a doubt. I have found the ‘90 perhaps the most inconsistent vintage for the usually reliable Dom Pérignon but we were blessed with a perfect specimen. No longer pale, there’s a nice tawny shade and plenty of bubbles. More intricate than any of the younger vintages, both delicious and challenging to the intellect. Deeply satisfying for my palate. What Dom Pérignon at its apogee is all about. (94 pts.) - 1982 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
Now the color is definitely gold and the stream is modest although appropriate for age. Slightly oxidative and it’s beginning to fatigue. Maybe partly due to the very prolific vintage there’s more age showing than brightness. But by no means undrinkable. (91 pts.) - 1975 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
While the group picked this one as their favorite of the ancient vintages I was less enamored. Full of interest and definitely alive, the fairly active mousse is proof that it had been well stored before I acquired it about a decade ago. Too much burnt popcorn on the nose for me to get past even though the savory flavor did not display it. (91 pts.) - 1973 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
The least successful vintage of the vertical even granting dispensation for old age. There are definite sherry notes which some tasters might appreciate more than me. It’s not dead though and a small sip expands your perception of very aged champagne. (88 pts.) - 1966 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon - France, Champagne
If you think that champagne from the decade of the seventies is just too decrepit for anyone to like, you need to try this 1966 from the prior decade. Even though the ‘66 Dom Pérignon is now so old it’s beyond the usual experience of champagne even though there are still a surprising number of tiny bubbles to prickle the tongue. The dark gold color does not inspire confidence. But amazingly there’s no oxidation, no sherry, no mud. What is in there is what I’m told is a classical note in old Dom - expresso. Also some beef and smoke. Masculine as opposed to the filigree profile of young Dom Pérignon. Decadent. Truly fascinating and it lasted well in the glass other than quickly donating its carbon dioxide to the atmosphere. (94 pts.)
- 1983 Château Climens - France, Bordeaux, Sauternais, Barsac
Another fabulous ‘73 Climens. Gorgeous peachy fruit unique to Climens, medium weight, elegant and not too heavy, tropical or sweet. Perfect state of maturity. The botrytis has been absorbed by the fruit. (95 pts.)
Stu
