Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts

Interesting, Joel. What does the "Speciale" mean, do you know?
From what I understand there were no single vintage Barolos or Barbarescos prior to the 70s, Do Speciale wines stay longer in barrels? Are they better Nebbiolo grapes?

What I know is only regarding Borgogno. I think it’s applicable to other producers but not 100%. basically the Riserva Speciale is simply aged a little longer (typically a year, sometimes 2) in bottle and/or barrel. I’ve never heard of it being different vineyards or even a barrel selection, it’s just more age.

As I understand it, the real purpose was marketing. Borgogno has always made SO much wine they don’t sell it all every release. so if you have more in the cellar for a year or two, why not put a sticker on it that it’s somehow special.

Generally the speciale will be a little more structured and tannic than the regular riserva. Possibly due to the extra age, but also because they went to better cellars/buyers. They made so much wine that a lot of what we see today in the market place has been mis-treated. So the speciale may have an extra shot at coming from a better stored cellar, not being released right away.

Thank you Joel

jal wrote:Interesting, Joel. What does the "Speciale" mean, do you know?
From what I understand there were no single vintage Barolos or Barbarescos prior to the 70s, Do Speciale wines stay longer in barrels? Are they better Nebbiolo grapes?

Do you mean single vineyard?

AKR wrote: Do you mean single vineyard?

I did, yes. Sorry

Thanks to jal for getting us up and running again! Jumpstarting some traffic after several days off...

Trimbach 2009 Riesling Cuvee Frédéric Emile (often abbreviated CFE.) I just don't have a ton of Riesling experience but this has a light color (no signs of premature oxidation), citrusy notes on the nose and mouth, crisp and dry with a viscous richness in mouth. Long lively finish. Excellent now and will certainly improve for two blanquitos or even more.

Tom

2015 Prieure-Lichine
Started out excellent and only got better.

We drank a 2000 Lafon-Rochet the other night with steak. This is just what a mature mid level northern Medoc should be--firm but not overly tannic, attractive cassis bouquet, good balance and a lingering finish.

Before 1982, the DOC requirements for all designations of Barolo were a minimum of 2 years in cask and total aging before release of 3 years for DOC, 4 years for Riserva, and 5 years for Riserva Speciale. So basically, any Barolo held for 5 years could be labeled Riserva Speciale.

Despite the ability to "upgrade" the designation to Riserva or Riserva Speciale simply with the passing of time, the best producers of the time -- such as Bruno Giacosa, Giacomo Conterno and others -- only used the Riserva or Riserva Speciale designations for their best casks.

With the implementation of the DOCG system in 1982, the new requirements for Barolo Riserva became the same as the old requirements for Riserva Speciale (i.e., minimum 2 years in cask and 5 years total aging) so the Speciale designation went away.

Tom In DC wrote: ↑Mon Feb 15, 2021 10:50 pm Before 1982, the DOC requirements for all designations of Barolo were a minimum of 2 years in cask and total aging before release of 3 years for DOC, 4 years for Riserva, and 5 years for Riserva Speciale. So basically, any Barolo held for 5 years could be labeled Riserva Speciale.

Despite the ability to "upgrade" the designation to Riserva or Riserva Speciale simply with the passing of time, the best producers of the time -- such as Bruno Giacosa, Giacomo Conterno and others -- only used the Riserva or Riserva Speciale designations for their best casks.

With the implementation of the DOCG system in 1982, the new requirements for Barolo Riserva became the same as the old requirements for Riserva Speciale (i.e., minimum 2 years in cask and 5 years total aging) so the Speciale designation went away.

Thanks for the extra info Tom. Hope you can make it to the next old Barolo event we do around DC!

Despite the "In DC" moniker, it's a tough commute from Colorado.

I hope we get back to DC later this year If travel opens back up (and we all get our shots!)

Folks
Now drinking Forey P&F Morey St Denis 2012.
Whilst I don’t normally bother with village Burgundy, this is pretty good.
Light to medium bodied with red and black fruits, a touch of stalky and forest floor characters and reasonable length and good balance. Tannins and acid were moderate there being a slight peppery character on the finish. Nice wine without pretentious of greatness.

Went to a Justin Girardin tasting last week.
Relative of the more famous Vincent.
The wines were all red and included 4 Santenays and one each of Chassagne Montrachet (Morgeot 1er Cru) and SLB Peuillets 1er Cru.
Good wines - all 2018 - showing ripe and well balanced fruit. The maker was on Zoom during the tasting and the wines were all destemmed before vinification. He wants ripeness and balance. the wines were impressive at their level and price.

Sunday for Valentines drank Gamet Blanc de Noirs Champagne.
Quite firm and rich with golden colour, nose and palate of brioche, honey, nuts, quince and toast. It is a little burly and broad but offers plenty of flavour. It went well with beef and shrimp (called surf and turf here) and finished long and mouth cleansing.

Chateau Bel-Air-Marquis D’Aligre 2001

Double decanted three hours in advance. Expressive and promising on opening, but then it went into its shell. As it emerged faint red currant fruits, rocky slate and minerals, tobacco, and then the Margaux berries started to bloom. So delightful; everything plays out in minor key, but it is a superb accompaniment to a veal chop. A purist’s delight, you only have to open anything else from the same vintage, to show how manipulated are other more modern wines. This is not a classed growth, and no it is not in the same league as Chateau Margaux or Chateau Palmer, but in the 1855 classification I would place it as a third growth, on a par with Ch. Giscours and Ch. La Lagune. My favourite vintage of this wine so far is 1995: but I have bottles of 1999 (not tried yet) and 2000. {tap on the photo to blow it up}

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It sounds very good, Ian. Why would anyone pay the same price for that crappy La Lagune? People should buy Bel-Air-Marquis D’Aligre instead.

With roast duck and salad we had a lovely 2000 Nicolas Potel Volnay 1er Cru Pitures. Pale color, beautiful nose, light texture, excellent sweet fruit and the structure is there to stand up to the fatty meat. I was concerned that this wine would be way over the hill, on the contrary, it was just delightful. 92

2000 D'Armailhac with hanger steak last night. Just what a fifth growth Pauillac should be, IMO; balanced with the power to stand up to steak, cassis, developing pencil lead. I like it more than the 2000 Grand Puy Lacoste.

With dinner at friends last night (everyone after the 2nd dose of vaccine), we had a stunning 2015 Faury St Joseph Vieilles Vignes. Dark almost black color, floral nose with the required overwhelming black olive aroma, dense, chewy and surprisingly light (I know dense and light are contradictory, but that's what it was). The fruit is delicious and pure, the wine is focused and deep. This is a bargain for the $30 or so I paid. 93

Faury VV is such a great deal year after year, and the 15 and 16 are especially good.

Blanquito wrote: ↑Sat Feb 20, 2021 2:53 pm Faury VV is such a great deal year after year, and the 15 and 16 are especially good.

Yes, The Côte Rôtie and the regular St Joseph are also great and quite affordable.

jal wrote: ↑Sat Feb 20, 2021 1:23 pm With dinner at friends last night (everyone after the 2nd dose of vaccine), we had a stunning 2015 Faury St Joseph Vieilles Vignes. Dark almost black color, floral nose with the required overwhelming black olive aroma, dense, chewy and surprisingly light (I know dense and light are contradictory, but that's what it was). The fruit is delicious and pure, the wine is focused and deep. This is a bargain for the $30 or so I paid. 93

Ugh. I had ordered one of these a few years ago....and the retailer shipped me the 2013 regular St Joe instead. They screwed up another bottle out of the case of 12 too. I didn't feel like wrangling with them, so just let it slide and put them on my 'hardly ever buy from' list.

The regular 2013 was a cool lean syrah, not really a long distance runner.

2019 Félines Jourdan Picpoul de Pinet. Quite good, with sea scallops and halibut. For the price, you can't pass. Decanter magazine seems to have a soft spot for Picpoul, and I understand.

2018 Pierre Lurton Dry white Bordeaux. From négoce, a trap: nice label, Pierre Lurton name on the label, but like a glass of water with two drops of white flowers. I feel dumb that I was trapped, but i'll bring it back for my money back. Avoid, even for cooking!

2017 Devois des Agneaux. Languedoc, syrah (70-80%)and grenache. Blackfruits, garrigues, leather, redfruits. Lot of syrah fruit. Light tannins and structure, not too long on final, but for the price, very ok.

Another dinner with vaccinated friends and this time we opened my 2nd out of 3 bottles of 2018 Jacques Carillon Puligny Montrachet Les Champs Canet; a little reduction with the usual notes of sulphur but that dissipates quickly, the texture is vibrant and elegant, the fruit is less sharp than the 2017s and therefore more enjoyable now in my opinion. Nothing fatty or overly ripe, just a bit wider on the palate. It is another fantastic effort from my favorite Puligny producer 93 We then had a splendid 2001 Domaine Bruno Clavelier Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d'Orveau Vieilles Vignes; quintessential Chambolle with a great nose of cherries and a very graceful and elegant texture. This wine is everything I love about Burgundy; a sense of terroir, minerality, elegance, earth, great fruit. 94

Envious Jacques. Not just the wines you're reporting on but having been vaccinated and able to dine with friends. We see our kids but don't extend beyond that bubble and it's starting to grind on everyone up here not just us. Enjoy for us.

I'm really sorry Danny, we got vaccinated by chance when we went to Israel to visit our son in December. We extended our stay to get the 2nd shot.
Good luck, I believe things will only get better from here

dstgolf wrote: ↑Mon Feb 22, 2021 10:06 pm Envious Jacques. Not just the wines you're reporting on but having been vaccinated and able to dine with friends. We see our kids but don't extend beyond that bubble and it's starting to grind on everyone up here not just us. Enjoy for us.

Like Danny, very envious here. I saw my parents this weekend, for the first time in 110 days, in a park... We're still not allowed to have anyone out of our little familly bubble at our house, even outside! What a shitty situation.

And Canada that doesn't produce vaccines... we're the most laughable country of the G7.

1998 Pichon Baron
Serious juice here from a chronically underrated vintage (but which happily keeps prices reasonable for claret with 20+ years of maturity)... In a really good spot right now, but loads of runway left. Classic claret showing nice complexity, elegance and pitch-perfect balance. Delicious curranty fruit to go with sous bois, earth and minerals galore. More a seductive wine than a brash one. Terrific. Wish I had more.

2019 PDO Mantinia from Ktima Spiropoulos

Inexpensive dry white from Grece. Light but very good with it lemon, bergamot, roses and herbs aromas an flavors. Mineral dry in the short finish. Very correct.

2016 Chateau Pech Redon l'Épervier Languedoc La Clape.

Nice concentrated and slightly modern syrah. Concentrated rasberries, violet flowers, prunes. When cool down a bit, more herbs and garrigues. Mouth is lush and rich, concentrated fruit, some sweet toasty oak, but the fruit is big and can managed all that, even the14.5 % alcohol. Not refined, tasty, even some freshness, went well with the faux-filet cook on the bbq. Tn: 89.

2000 Pontet Canet acquired this week at auction

Jean-Michel and Alfred smashed it out of the park

Makes the 1996 look like an uncouth interloper with none of the vulgarities of modernity

Looks, smells and tastes like great Pauillac

Glad to hear the positive comments about the 2000 Pontet Canet. I have a case yet to be cracked. Sounds like it may be time.

2009 Monfaletto di Cordero di Montezemolo Barolo with Osso Buco. This wine suggests that it is a good time to be drinking 2009 Barolo while waiting for the 2010 to come around. This one is surprisingly intense upon entry and quite expressive on the tongue from front to back. The inviting nose intensifies in the mouth. Tannic, of course, but fine with the Osso Buco.

1986 D'issan. Still a very drinkable wine from a good bottle. Good color. Very light bodied and no real oomph on the nose or palate. Pretty much on its way out. It's best days were probably 10-15 years ago. Better than the flawed bottle with some seepage from the summer. Left half in the bottle with a Repour to try later this weekend.

I went D’Issan too last night but with the 2005 and it was wonderfully fragrant with black cherry, earthy tobacco and cedar scents that lead to a silky, fresh, mouthful of palate staining blackberry flavors that carried through the long finish. 94

jckba wrote: ↑Sat Mar 06, 2021 12:14 pm I went D’Issan too last night but with the 2005 and it was wonderfully fragrant with black cherry, earthy tobacco and cedar scents that lead to a silky, fresh, mouthful of palate staining blackberry flavors that carried through the long finish. 94

Sounds great. I have been trying to find some 2005. The 2000 is one of my favorite wines, the 2014 was also very good and may reach that level. I've heard the 2005 is fairly backwards right now, what are your thoughts? How long did you decant for?

Not Jacques but I decanted for a little more than an hour and I wouldn’t call this backwards at all as the wine is showing secondary notes aromatically but is still blackberry driven on the palate. And while its very good now it will only get better with another Blanquito.

jckba wrote: ↑Sat Mar 06, 2021 12:46 pm Not Jacques but I decanted for a little more than an hour and I wouldn’t call this backwards at all as the wine is showing secondary notes aromatically but is still blackberry driven on the palate. And while its very good now it will only get better with another Blanquito.

Good stuff, apologies I misread the poster name. This is good to hear, I will have to to keep seeking some out. Thanks

Missed your post on the 2005 d’Issan, JC, I have five bottles of it and may have to uncork one during BWE Month.

Another 375 of 2012 La Fleur de Bouard. Rich, fruity and very merlot but not over the top. This was a great buy in the $10 to $15 range for 375s. Another recent right banker, 1998 Canon la Gaffeliere showed very nicely. Good early/mid maturity - has really come around in recent years. We drank the 750 over 2 nights and there was no decline in quality the second night.

A recent star Champagne was a July 2018 release of NV Egly-Ouriet Grand Cru Brut Tradition. This was stunning, a great wine.

Chris Bublitz

Quite a few German Rieslings recently. Great showing by 2013 Willi Schaefer Graacher Himmelreich and Graacher Domprobst Kabinetts - very lively. Also had some very nice 2004 Muller-Catoir Gimmeldinger Mandelgarten Riesling Spatlese and Kabinett. All of these had that special zing from a balanced, lively Riesling.

A couple that fell short (to my taste) were a 2005 Selbach-Oster Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Spatlese* (too sweet for its less than expected acidity) and a 2005 Donnhoff Riesling Spatlese (forgot which one) that was too sweet and too heavy.

Chris Bublitz

I drank two of my recent auction wins this weekend:

2000 Pontet Canet really hit the bullseye. I think I mentioned it earlier. Terrific wine. Some may find it modern but it has superb precision, and you know you are in Pauillac. Very glad, finally to get some of these on deck.

2005 La Conseillante. Even though I double decanted several hours in advance it is still quite cocooned but it tastes like a first growth. Blind I would have guessed Cheval Blanc or Petrus, which I know are quite different wines. Ever so refined and silky with incense and violets and other aromas. I think in a decade from now this will be magnificent. I bought this because Far Vintners, whom I trust - their track record has been very good in the 30 years I have been buying wine - reckon this is the pick of the Pomerols in 2005. I took the other 11 bottles off to my storage this afternoon. (Their ‘Latour’ like rating of 2019 Lynch Bages was why I bought silly amounts of that wine).