TN: Chateau Serilhan 2006 St. Estephe

[Chasse-Spleen]

Chateau Serilhan 2006 St. Estephe

I found this wine at Warehouse on Broadway along with a bunch of other interesting cheapies from recent vintages including '04 and '05 plus of course, the usual overpriced stuff but maybe not - 2nd wine of Poyferre Moulin Riche '02 for $23? Anyone care to comment? Anyway, RP rated the '05 of Serilhan 82 -84 among the also-rans, so I was encouraged by his attention but not by the verdict. But on to the wine...

This is one of the most California styled wines that I've had from Bordeaux since the 2003 St. Estephe Chateau Clauzet, a wine that I adored in 2000. Is there something about St. Estephe that has shown the way to such new world defectors? The bottle itself is a tip-off, with that upwardly tapered shape that spells Cali. A clear red with a dark core and lightening at the rim. The nose is where it gets interesting, and no doubt about it, an interesting and complex nose: Red fruits - cherries, some berries, spices but also this candied element that reminds me of California and Australia. Some flowers at times, I want to say roses but I can hardly believe it. Maybe a hint of earth. It shows good complexity, changing from moment to moment. The candied element starts to subside after awhile.

On the palate, more red fruits and a bit of earth and spices. Medium body with smooth texture and a decent finish. Soft tannins and well balanced acidity. Very drinkable but very modern. The Bordeaux version of California. But it's hard to escape the balance and polish of this wine. It cost $15 after all. You could say that the nose outshines the palate, but the palate is hardly a no-show. It says 55% Cab Sauv and 37% Merlot with the remainder Cab Franc (8%) but I would have guessed at a much higher merlot percentage. Not exactly what I was hoping for, but for a completely unrated chateaux in a non-vintage of the century, they did a pretty commendable job with this wine.

-Chris

[Chasse-Spleen]

I recently checked in on this wine and it had matured a bit, opening up on the nose with a bit of tobacco and just all around very nice to drink. $11!

[alchemeus]

Two ways to look at any wine.

1) Is it good? Do you want to drink it?

2) Is it true to it's terroir?

That's what distinguishes a Good wine from a Great wine. Good wine tastes good, Great wine tastes good and is true to it's terroir.

Well, that whole food thing but even more complications.

[Jay Winton]

love the 05 Moulin Riche so the 02 might be worth checking out

[alchemeus]

Jay,

Many 2005's were very good and many of those inexpensive. Sold out rather quickly around here. I'd be surprised if any 2005's were still on shelves, but HUZZAH if any can find them.

BTW, had a 1996 Chateau Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande the other night. Fantastic. Great wine.

Couldn't afford one today of course.

[Houndsong]

I'd try the Moulin Riche. Someone correct me if I'm wrong (scmiiw) but Moulin Riche is a Cru Bourgeois owned by Cuvelier with its own vineyards. I've heard it mentioned as Leo P's second pretty often. Maybe it also gets some of Leo P's over production/deselection too?

The Serlihan sounds OK for the style. Me I likes 'em dark and briney.

[alchemeus]

Heck, I can't afford most 2nd wines anymore. Not like I used to any way. Hell, I've bought Margaux and Haut-Brion at $99. The First wines. No longer.

[Chasse-Spleen]

I did try the '02 Moulin Riche, months ago and I posted. It was still pretty tough but I didn't have it with red meat. Probably much better in that way. Quality was there but tons of structure. Not as much fruit. Like a stripped down version of the grand vin. They reduced the price to like $16 but it's probably all gone now. So many wines. I had high hopes for that one but it didn't really hit the mark. I was hoping it would be more evolved or a little more giving, balanced.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Just looking in on this wine for maybe the 10th time. It is still a marvel of QPR and a true Bordeaux. Transparent ruby with lightening at the rim that shows maturity. Great nose with currants, maybe some cassis, subtle spices and a hint of tobacco. On the light to medium bodied palate there is some leather along with the delicious currants. Just a few tinkling tannins left. A rich earthyness to the nose. An impressive 15 seconds plus on the finish. Hard to describe how satisfying this humble wine is. I thought it might be through but that is not the case. Bordeaux lives! 2006 may be a great vintage.

-Chasse

[stefan]

It is surprising to me how well modest properties did in 2006. This seems to be a very good time to drink them.

[Chasse-Spleen]

Another bottle last night was much younger.