Book review: "Inside Bordeaux" by Jane Anson

[AlexR]

Inside Bordeaux by Jane Anson, published in 2020 by Berry Brothers & Rudd Press.
Cost: 70 euros.

There is a real need for a book like Englishwoman Jane Anson’s every ten years or so because, although Bordeaux is often considered old hat and traditional – sometimes too much – things change all the time, and information is often outdated…
As a long-time Bordeaux resident and lover of the local wine, I pay homage to this well-researched and fascinating book.
You would expect sections on the great châteaux to be a rehash of things we have read a hundred times before, yet Jane introduces new insight and shows that there are developments even at the most famous estates.
The great pitfall of wine writers is complacency, the inability to be upset the apple cart and call established hierarchies into question. As the home of the 1855 classification, Bordeaux is the granddaddy of all such hierarchies! Jane deals honestly with each and every château in the classification (except Sauternes, oddly enough, where ranking is not noted) and does not mince her words. She bumps some châteaux up a notch or two (for instance, Palmer and Léoville Las Cases are put on an equal footing with the first growths and Grand Puy Lacoste goes from 5th to 1st!), while “demoting” others, such as Talbot or Boyd Cantenac.

Of course, with a minimum of 7,000 châteaux in Bordeaux, there is necessarily a subjective element at play in any book like this and some big holes. How could it be otherwise? The Cocks and Féret (AKA the “Bordeaux Bible”) is over 2,300 pages long, versus about 650 for Inside Bordeaux. As the author of a blog about Bordeaux, I know how hard it is to avoid focusing on the famous wines, of which there are already a great number, to the detriment of numerous noteworthy and much more affordable wines. Jane manages to stray off the beaten track, and that, along with updates on the estates everyone knows, constitutes the true value of this book. To many foreign wine lovers, Bordeaux is synonymous with the classified growths although, taken together, these represent only about 5% of production! The precious input of a book like this is to turn readers on to many excellent lesser-known wines. In a just a few years, Jane has been around the block and done her homework to an impressive degree. No lover of Bordeaux could fail to be delighted with reading about her discoveries. I’d say that this is a book one dips into rather than reads.

Burgundy lovers (which, it should be stressed, include many Bordeaux lovers!), sometimes talk about terroir as though this were somehow uniquely Burgundian and just a secondary notion in Bordeaux. Inside Bordeaux includes a series of geological maps that puts paid to this preconceived notion. These maps are displayed in an unprecedented way for a book meant for the general public. I can’t say that I spent a great deal of time pouring over them, nor do I think most readers will, but they are a timely reminder that Bordeaux is about terroir, just like any other great wine producing region.
One can nitpick about minor errors in the book, or regret that so little space is devoted to the largest regions within Bordeaux, but these criticisms are far outweighed by the scholarship and, clearly, the love that went into writing these pages. Special praise should be given to Jane’s engaging style, which keeps the subject matter from becoming too dry or academic.

No matter what your level of wine knowledge is, and especially if you are a fan of Bordeaux, this book is a major contribution to works on the subject. It does not pretend, like Robert Parker’s book, to be “The Definitive Guide”, because Jane has the humility to know that such a thing is impossible. But it’s an excellent overview that is bound to teach us all a thing or two.

Best regards,
Alex R.

[AKR]

It seems like they are selling the book directly, and not through intermediaries like Amazon. Neil Martin did this too. Makes it harder to get it for a good (i.e. low!) price especially if one wants it permanently for their library.

I used to work with a converts trader who would scream at staff if he ever saw them lifting an offer (paying the asking price without bargaining). "Paying retail is for the goyim!"

Still, I do covet this book.

[greatbxfreak]

I agree totally with Alex and I'm particularly happy for pictures in colour and not in black@white. Pictures of soil are great, great addition to the book.

Yes, Jane Anson tells you things in lightweight style, opposite to Neal Martin's heavy way in his Pomerol book accompanied by black-white pictures. They are both of British origin, yet totally different. I prefer Jane's way of telling things.

I'm also happy that she shares my appreciation for many chateaux

This book can be ordered online from Mollat bookstore in Bordeaux and Berry Bros winemerchant in London.

[s*d*r]

Thanks for the review and information, I just ordered it from Sotheby’s USA.

Stu

[Comte Flaneur]

Thanks for the post Alex.

Every wine writer has their critics, and Jane has hers too, as you saw in the WP thread.

I will probably buy her book to put on my coffee table to peruse and get more up to date with what is going on.

Yes she is an insider and every bad review is qualified with an apology but at the end of the day she is a worthy resource in situ and I say good luck to her. I look forward to her upcoming zoom on the Leovilles (Poyferre, Barton and Lascases, 89 and 09).

Because of the ‘Inside’ moniker she will inevitably be compared to Jasper Morris, the consummate English public school boy, with his Encyclopaedic knowledge of Burgundy, depth of analysis, mastery of prose and ability to hold court in a public setting.

[AKR]

"Jane has her knockers" means something different out here

[greatbxfreak]

Ian,

What's WP thread? Where?

[Comte Flaneur]

Izak here

https://www.wine-pages.com/community/th ... son.10162/

[JimHow]

My two wine books on my coffee table are "The Chateauneuf-du-Pape Wine Book" by Harry Karis, and "Millesimes," from Pontet Canet.

[greatbxfreak]

Ian,

Thanks for the link.

I'm still holding with Alex' review and I don't understand some comments on that particular thread.

This book was never meant as buying guide and for someone to criticize maps of vineyard in Bordeaux but going beserk on same in Burgundy.......?

I value it very highly.

It's found a perfect place on my wine book shelf along with Broadbent's, Brooks', Robert Parker's, Neal Martin's, Billionaires Vinegar, Noble Rot and Vino Business!

[Musigny 151]

I have not had a chance to look at Jane’s book, but will buy and read at the first opportunity. She is articulate, funny and her insider credentials give her far more credibility than the merchant who lives in London and decides to pen something. She has the commercial part covered as well; her husband works for a negotiant.


As far as wine books are concerned, my shelves are sadly overflowing as I do collect the damned things.
The best and most inspiring without a doubt is Kermit Lynch’s Adventures Along the Wine Route. If you haven’t read it, I urge you to do so. It was reprinted a few years ag, and is still the most relevant wine book I know.

[robert goulet]

Love Jane...will most likely order one

[robert goulet]

Love Jane...will most likely order one...thanx for the review Alex

[AKR]

For those of you who have ordered this book, did you really have to upload your drivers licence?

That is an insane requirement for just ordering a book.

I placed my order, will see if they reject it, since I don't see how sharing an ID is not problematic.

In fact its so crazy reckless I cannot even believe they even understand what they are doing.

[DavidG]

I don’t think Sotheby’s asks for a DL:
https://www.sothebyswine.com/ny/shop/inside-bordeaux/

[Blanquito]

For those of you who have ordered this book, did you really have to upload your drivers licence?

That is an insane requirement for just ordering a book.

I placed my order, will see if they reject it, since I don't see how sharing an ID is not problematic.

In fact its so crazy reckless I cannot even believe they even understand what they are doing.

Making sure you’re old enough to read about alcohol?

[Racer Chris]

For those of you who have ordered this book, did you really have to upload your drivers licence?

That is an insane requirement for just ordering a book.

I placed my order, will see if they reject it, since I don't see how sharing an ID is not problematic.

In fact its so crazy reckless I cannot even believe they even understand what they are doing.

Making sure you’re old enough to read about alcohol?

You can never be too careful with vices ...

[Blanquito]

a number of public servers/free WiFi include wine appreciation website like BWE and Berserkers in the content/sites they block. I’ve experienced this in both the US and UK.

[Blanquito]

For those of you who have ordered this book, did you really have to upload your drivers licence?

That is an insane requirement for just ordering a book.

I placed my order, will see if they reject it, since I don't see how sharing an ID is not problematic.

In fact its so crazy reckless I cannot even believe they even understand what they are doing.

Making sure you’re old enough to read about alcohol?

You can never be too careful with vices ...

Kids these days, always reading up on fine wines before making (illegal and cost prohibitive) high-end wine purchases...

[AKR]

I don’t think Sotheby’s asks for a DL:
https://www.sothebyswine.com/ny/shop/inside-bordeaux/

After I checked out Sothebys demanded a DL (or a passport) or the order would not be processed.

I will call them tomorrow.

They don't disclose that anywhere before either. Also force you to create an account, which is kind of an irritating requirement for a simple transaction that is unlikely to be an ongoing relationship.

It's like they are doing internet sales circa 2001.

[DavidG]

That’s bizarre.

[greatbxfreak]

Why don't you order directly from Berry Brothers and Ruud or a bookshop in Bordeaux, https://www.mollat.com/???

Sotheby's?????

[AKR]

Why don't you order directly from Berry Brothers and Ruud or a bookshop in Bordeaux, https://www.mollat.com/???

Sotheby's?????

Because Berry Brothers sells the book into the UK only, at least according to their site.

US persons are directed to order it from their US agent, Sothebys. And in fact on the site, depending on the nation, there are agents for each market.

I called Sothebys this morning, and a lady there said someone would get back to me. She took my number but I have never heard anything back.

I can understand Jane Anson wanting to protect her profit margins by having exclusive agents for various markets to sell the book, but it's pretty hard to buy under these processes, and frankly, I'm close to giving up.

At Amazon this would have been a 45 second transaction.

[AKR]

To close the loop on this, I called Sotheby's again this morning as they never called back.

They stated that one does not need to actually send a DL or Passport to buy the book, and that I should just ignore the mail requesting that.

But they are busy, and my card won't be charged, nor will the book be shipped ($15 for FedEx ground) until maybe next week.

Amazon - they're not.

[Musigny 151]

Why don't you order directly from Berry Brothers and Ruud or a bookshop in Bordeaux, https://www.mollat.com/???

Sotheby's?????

Because Berry Brothers sells the book into the UK only, at least according to their site.

US persons are directed to order it from their US agent, Sothebys. And in fact on the site, depending on the nation, there are agents for each market.

I called Sothebys this morning, and a lady there said someone would get back to me. She took my number but I have never heard anything back.

I can understand Jane Anson wanting to protect her profit margins by having exclusive agents for various markets to sell the book, but it's pretty hard to buy under these processes, and frankly, I'm close to giving up.

At Amazon this would have been a 45 second transaction.

Anybody who writes currently (unless you are a Stephen King) knows that there is not much money in writing. And starting a newsletter on your own without corporate money, is also tough. I subscribed to Jane’s newsletter a couple of days ago, and bought the book from Sotheby’s. Jane is an excellent writer with a very solid palate, and well worth supporting.

[Tom In DC]

I just ignored the request for ID, figuring that it was just assumed that you were buying wine at the "Sotheby's Wine" site. No problem - the order was quickly confirmed.