(BN) 2016 Was a Perfect Year, at Least in Italy’s Barolo Win

[AKR]

O.G. BWE 'whuzzup' quoted about 2/3 the way through....

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2016 Was a Perfect Year, at Least in Italy’s Barolo Wine Country
2020-07-23 05:10:47.938 GMT


By Elin McCoy
(Bloomberg Businessweek) -- The star grape in Italy’s
northern Piedmont is nebbiolo, named for the misty fog that
drifts over the hills at harvest time, when aromas of white
truffles and fermenting wine fill the air. It’s the Italian
equivalent to Burgundy’s pinot noir, as important to the region
as cabernet is to Napa Valley.
Nebbiolo is a tricky grape, thin-skinned and difficult to
vinify. To fully ripen, it requires a long growing season, which
tames its famous tannins yet lets the wine age in deliciously
complex ways. The haunting blend of licorice, cherry, and floral
aromas along with its layers of complex flavors and elegant
structure are key to the appeal of its most famous wine: Barolo,
named after both a village and a part of the region.
In 2016, wine growers were anticipating a magnificent
vintage before they picked a single grape. For starters, the
weather was perfect throughout the growing season, says Jimmy
Minutella of Renato Ratti, whose single-vineyard Barolo Rocche
dell’Annuziata ($105) brims with a rose-petal bouquet and glides
over the tongue like velvet.
No heat waves, frosts, or hailstorms interrupted the
season. The months of July and August had low humidity and
temperatures that were above average but no hotter than 95F.
Occasional rains prevented heat stress. September brought cooler
evening temperatures, extending the growing season.
But labeling 2016 a great vintage for Barolo is not only a
reflection of the weather. Add some science: The local
government’s agriculture department and faculty at the
University of Turin check the quality of grapes by measuring
components such as sugar levels and acidity in clusters plucked
from 15 strategically chosen Barolo vineyards. “We start with
data,” says Matteo Ascheri, president of the regional consortium
of winemakers in Piedmont, which represents more than 500
producers.
To the analyses and their implications for the final
product, the consortium added ratings from producers and critics
at a Nebbiolo Prima preview event in Alba earlier this year, as
well as from global sommeliers and critics like me, who tasted
the wines in New York in February. Afterward, all were averaged
together to come up with the final official score, which rang in
at an almost-­perfect 99.3 out of 100 and was announced at the
first Barolo Barbaresco World Opening gala dinner. There were
200 producers on hand.
“This is one of the best vintages I’ve ever made, with 35
harvests on my shoulder,” said Luca Currado, winemaker at Vietti
s.r.l., whose stunning single-vineyard Barolo Rocche di
Castiglione ($200) nicely illustrates the character of the year:
perfect balance, along with expansive anise, mint, and spice
aromas; dark plum and cherry flavors; plush, smooth texture; and
the structure to age for 30 years longer.
Regulations require Barolos to be aged 38 months before
being released, so bottles of this exceptional vintage are just
arriving. The timing couldn’t be better. “At auction, the region
is now a hot category, with wine prices climbing 30% to 40% in
the last four years,” says Ben Nelson of Chicago’s Hart Davis
Hart Wine Co., which on July 24 and 25 is holding a sale of
30,000 bottles, including many vintages of rare Barolos, from
the cellar of New York’s Del Posto restaurant.
Robbie Stevens, senior account manager at Liv-ex, the
global marketplace for the wine trade, says the 2016 release has
been “a catalyst in getting savvy collectors of Bordeaux and
Burgundy to look at Barolo’s under-the-radar investment
potential and value for quality and then buy older vintages such
as 2010.” You can even find examples from the 1960s and ’70s.
Five years ago, the region accounted for only 7% of the
Italian wine traded on Liv-ex; it’s up to 27% this year. Prices
of top 2016s, released earlier in Europe, are already rising.
Luciano Sandrone’s succulent, silky Barolo Le Vigne is up 13%,
trading at $1,237 for a case.
That the wines are exempt from the 25% U.S. trade tariffs
on French, English, Spanish, and German bottles also aids
Barolo’s popularity. (The U.S. Trade Representative is debating
whether to include additional countries on its list of tariffs;
a decision is expected in August.)
Many Burgundy lovers see parallels between pinot noirs from
grands crus vineyards and single-vineyard Barolos.
Traditionally, producers blended their wines from several sites,
but a few decades ago they started showcasing individual sites
separately. These bottlings increased; in 2010, villages and the
consortium legally codified 170 single vineyards in the region’s
11 communes.
Currado says you can taste the difference among every one
of the 2016s. “Each wine shows its personality,” he says, “which
is essential for a great vintage.”
Here are the 10 to know. Many are already in shops; others
are available as futures and will arrive this fall.The 2016
Barolo Bottle-Buying Guide
2016 Borgogno Fratelli Serio & Battista Cannubi
This bright, succulent, medium-bodied wine with dried flower
aromas and spicy flavors comes from the historic hillside
vineyard of Cannubi. It seems soft but will age beautifully. $45
2016 Mauro Veglio Barolo Castelletto
This rich, spicy Barolo from the large Castelletto area in La
Morra features aromas with balsamic notes and juicy flavors of
blackberries and black plums. $50
2016 Francesco Rinaldi Barolo
The basic Barolo from this traditional producer is wonderfully
savory, with pure scents of ripe cherries. It’s a total bargain.
From $55, as futures
2016 Giacomo Fenocchio Villero
Dark and powerful, this 2016 needs a lot of time. You’ll find
mint and cherries in the aromas and flavors, but also cedar-y
tobacco hints. $60
2016 Azelia Bricco Fiasco
What stands out is the wine’s vibrant freshness and rich nuances
of bright cherries and sweet herbs, both in its flavors and
aromas. It’s made from 85-year-old vines. $86
2016 Renato Ratti Rocche dell’Annunziata
This is so smooth, rich, and warmly fruity that you feel like
drinking it now, while inhaling its fragrant rose petal aromas.
Also, look for the intense, mineral, layered Ratti Conca for
$92. $105
2016 Brovia Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia
This wine, from a one-hectare parcel in the Brea vineyard, is
all about sensual, dark-toned fruit and generous lavender,
truffle, and spice aromas. $106
2016 Conterno Fantino Ginestra Vigna del Gris
Savory, dried flowers and mint and cedar are the aroma and
flavor notes that stand out in this vibrant wine. $110
2016 Lucio Sandrone Le Vigne
Created from four vineyards, this fresh, deep, very complex wine
brims with aromas of violets and tastes of juicy red cherries
and spices. From $163, as futures
2016 Vietti Barolo Rocche di Castiglione
Rich and silky textured, balanced and elegant, this licorice-
and dried rose-scented vino serioso gets even better when you
let it breathe. Look also for the entry level regional Barolo
Castiglione, which, at $55, is a stunning bargain. $299, as
futures

[Chateau Vin]

Thanks Arv, for the report...Comte also mentioned early on about this once in generation type vintage, and seems I have to capitulate. I just finished rounding out 2016 Bordeaux, and exploring the 2019 Bordeaux. And then there is 2014 Bordeaux too...Now, 2016 barolo...

Wow, Azelia in the eighties range at release? Looks like ‘jal’ is the culprit! Ever since ‘jal’ sort of discovered this wine, which used be in 40s or 50s range, the price has crept up!!

I have to blame especially the following fellow BWErs for rise in prices of certain wines in recent times...I might be missing others and many more wines...

Arv - les Carmes haut brion
Jal - azelia bricco fiasco
BD - T St Christophe
Blanquito - Ridge Geyserville
Stefan - the whole st innocent stable!
Comte - la conseillante

[jal]

You think these have gone up in price, CV?
Burlotto Monvigliero I could still buy at $50 in 2015, it is now between $200-400 depending on vintage.
Let's not even go to Burgundy, white or red.
Or Bordeaux

Last I read inflation was non-existent. Clearly wine is not in the basket.

Soon we will only be able to afford "Fucking" Beaujolais.

[JCNorthway]

In a vintage like 2016, one should be able to get a lot of enjoyment (and decent aging potential) from the basic Barolo bottlings - like you can do with 2016 Bordeaux. I did that with the 2016 Barbarescos, opting for a case of the regular Produttori del Barbaresco and planning to forego the Produttori Riservas. And I will probably do that with Barolo; I have my eye on the Vietti Castiglione that received mid-90s scores from several of the major reviewers.

[Comte Flaneur]

I ‘discovered’ Azelia late, when we dropped by in Nov 2017, a very good and intelligent producer who makes both modern and classic Barolo in their small premises right next to the overtly more modern Paulo Scavino. I bought several cases of the 10, 12 and 13 Azelia. Last week though a 2004 San Rocco was shown up by a 1999 Giacosa Falletto, but the reason for buying Azelia has always been ‘qpr’ which is why I sold a case of 2010 Burlotto Monvigliero to buy three cases of Azelia.

Re the 2016s I did not get lucky with the annual Burlotto lottery at the wine society - though I got 15s and 13s, and the 14s are not really worth breaking down barricades to get hold of. So even though I cottoned on early to how great this vintage was going to be I was a bit turned off by the hype and aggressive pricing, so have been keeping my powder dry. I have not gone chasing anything and found chasing 2019 Bordeaux a lot more fun.

So I think the only cases of 2016 Piedmont I have is Produttori Barbaresco and Canonica Barolo, which after I purchased it I discovered was 15.5% ABV....hmmmm...2016 Piedmonts are not low - or even moderate - in alcohol.

[Blanquito]

Prices are nuts, and many regions have gone up a lot in just the last year or two. White burg is particularly bad in my world, wines I used to consider pricey at $75 (like some of the 2014 Neillon Chassagne single vineyards) are now like $115-$125 for current releases. Man, I miss PremierCru -- at least John Fox created the illusion of affordable French wine!

Even the beloved Produttori has gone up (no one man can take credit for outing this winery), I used to be able to reliably find its single vineyard riservas in the low $40s, even the high $30s on sale, in 'great' years like the 04 and 05, and it now seems to be $65 or $70 for new releases, $85+ for any back vintages. Fortunately, I have heaps of this from 04-08 to keep me busy.

[Chateau Vin]

You think these have gone up in price, CV?
Burlotto Monvigliero I could still buy at $50 in 2015, it is now between $200-400 depending on vintage.
Let's not even go to Burgundy, white or red.
Or Bordeaux

Last I read inflation was non-existent. Clearly wine is not in the basket.

Soon we will only be able to afford "Fucking" Beaujolais.

I sorta lucked out in a sense about burlotto monvigliero. I never tried this wine, so to be on safe side, I just bought 4 bottles of 2010 version for about 45 or so each. The prices sky rocketed 6 fold after that. We will see maybe 10 years from now if the astronomical price is justified....

Maybe I should trade couple of 2010s to couple of newer vintage ones like 2016...

I guess you are right. Maybe we will soon have to be content with beaujolais, and tell the next generation, “Once upon a time when we had that undrinkable 09 and 10 GPL, it was treat, and head shoulders above this beaujolais...And it was a bargain at around 80 bucks at release”

[Chateau Vin]

I ‘discovered’ Azelia late, when we dropped by in Nov 2017, a very good and intelligent producer who makes both modern and classic Barolo in their small premises right next to the overtly more modern Paulo Scavino. I bought several cases of the 10, 12 and 13 Azelia. Last week though a 2004 San Rocco was shown up by a 1999 Giacosa Falletto, but the reason for buying Azelia has always been ‘qpr’ which is why I sold a case of 2010 Burlotto Monvigliero to buy three cases of Azelia.

Re the 2016s I did not get lucky with the annual Burlotto lottery at the wine society - though I got 15s and 13s, and the 14s are not really worth breaking down barricades to get hold of. So even though I cottoned on early to how great this vintage was going to be I was a bit turned off by the hype and aggressive pricing, so have been keeping my powder dry. I have not gone chasing anything and found chasing 2019 Bordeaux a lot more fun.

So I think the only cases of 2016 Piedmont I have is Produttori Barbaresco and Canonica Barolo, which after I purchased it I discovered was 15.5% ABV....hmmmm...2016 Piedmonts are not low - or even moderate - in alcohol.

Oh my... 15.5 abv!!

That gives me a pause and I need to be highly selective...sigh...

[jal]

The only 2016 Nebbiolo I own is 6 bottles of the Castello di Neive Barbaresco purchased at $29/per

[AKR]

There's an ocean of good wine out there, and even if some favored names become less available, new ones pop up all the time.

[DavidG]

I buy very little Nebbiolo, but sprung for 10 bottles of 2016 Produttori Barbaresco. Popped one ITNOS back in February. Great raw materials but nowhere near ready.

[JCNorthway]

David, you will be rewarded by waiting for the remaining 9 bottles!

[DavidG]

David, you will be rewarded by waiting for the remaining 9 bottles!

Jon, any thoughts on how long to wait? CT users say to start drinking in 2023. I’m thinking more like 2030?

[JCNorthway]

David, I'm thinking I might crack the first one at age 10, which would make it 2026. You may be on target thinking 2030. I think 2023 is a bit early unless you are prepared to decant for a good period of time.

I'm in no hurry because Galloni's drinking window on Vinous was 2021-2041 (and he seems to have shorter windows than others sometimes). Twenty-five years for an entry level Barbaresco is not the norm, so I think this one will be fine for quite a while.