Duhart Milon at 67 Pall Mall

[Comte Flaneur]

The latest 67PM Bordeaux tasting with Eric Kohler, the winemaker at Lafite and Duhart-Milon.

My samples had been in the fridge because it was a warm early autumn day in London N1, so some of these wines were slow out of the blocks and I came back every so often to see how they evolved as they warmed up.

2016 - quite inexpressive on the nose but as it warmed up cassis, red berries and cracked pepper. Cool-fruited, gentle and languid on the palate, it nevertheless has deceptive power, great precision and fans out beautifully. It is still very young of course but is effortlessly brilliant like so many other 2016s. It is a vintage which Eric Kohler describes as the last classic vintage, notably cool by the standards of recent vintages, but not versus a longer sweep of history. 95+

2014 - initially reticent, and lean, with graphite with earthy and marine notes, after a couple of hours it has come out of its shell. Come back and take a look in 2-3 years. 91+

2011 - this ‘Cinderella’ vintage was a surprise inclusion in the line up, and a favourite of Kohler. It has more going on the nose with mineral/schist/sea shell notes, and is on the lean side but an alluring old school and proper ‘luncheon claret.’ And so very Pauillac. 91

2009 - much more ripeness and generosity and the 37% of merlot in the blend makes its presence felt, with its plummy fruit characteristics, and some truffle bits on the nose. The most overtly ripe wine tonight and somewhat out of character with the ethos of the cool-fruited terroir of this estate. I recently became a big fan of this vintage recognising it is Bordeaux and not Napa, but this wine, excellent as it was, was the least alluring of the tasting. 92

2005 - one of the best 2005s I have tried this year, this has great entry expression with talc and classic Pauillac nuances, terroir expression and sufficient though not excessive mid palate heft and ripeness. It is well resolved and remarkably open for business, even though the consensus was that it needed more time. It has remarkable poise and finesse for a 2005. 94

2000 - this sample was better than the last bottle I tried three years ago, which was a bit skinny. This has resolved into a quintessentially poised, elegant and refined Pauillac. Not quite as big or ripe as the 2005, but a bit more old school and classical. It has dark fruit and plenty of secondary Pauillac cigar box and cedar development, with fine minerality and salinity. Superb. 94

The 2000 and 2005 were the stars of the show tonight...if I had to choose I would err to the 2000 for its old school classicism. The 2016 was perhaps the brightest star but in the context of this vintage it would be in the middle of a Peloton of superstars. The 2011 is perhaps the ideal luncheon claret, but at roughly the same price as the 2016 not compelling vfm. You can still buy the 2016 for ~£600ib for 12 here which is remarkable value.

[JimHow]

Baby doll. What the heck do I do with my pristine unopened case of 2005 Duhart Milon, when you factor in my OCD predilections to drink the whole case once the seal has been cracked?

[Nicklasss]

Very interesting summary. I like Duhart Milon, probably more than I realise.

From my reading of your comments Comte, i can just say it is almost an evidence that Duhart Milon, is trying to stay very classic Pauillac, a bit like Lafite, as having the same winemaker.

I agree that the 2000 is an awesome classic claret Pauillac, kind of irresistible. The 2005 is also a great achievement for the price and the vintage.

Like all great red Bordeaux, the price went up since 2005 and this is the only "negative" thing about this Chateau. The 2011 is available here, but at 148 $cad (110 $usd), hard to convince yourself to buy.

I like your comments on the 2009 and 2016, that both seem to be representing their respective vintages in a relative classic style.

I liked the 1995 and 1996 in the past.

I would have liked they would have added the 2003, between the 2000 and 2005... probably the least classical Duhart I had, but still ok in the vintage.

Finally, yes Jim, you can open your case of 2005. That should make you happy. I would be interested of what you think about the 2005 Duhart Milon, in comparison with your recent love like Tour Saint Christophe or the many 2014.

Nic

[Comte Flaneur]

Nic - Eric was effusive in his praise for the ‘delicious’ 2003.

He also said that Duhart has a ‘cold terroir’ which means that generally Duhart is picked after Lafite.

Like Lafite Duhart is naturally relatively low in alcohol.

All this means that Duhart is well placed in a world of global warming.

I feel somehow that Duhart is not quite realising its full potential.

With a new chai the selection will become much more rigorous.

[Blanquito]

I am on the record praising the 03 Duhart. Haven’t had it in a good while, but I loved it on release and the $28 on-the-shelf price tag didn’t hurt. I did sell some of these during the Lafite craze, but I think I have some still.

I did bail out on buying this chateau when en premier prices started ranging from $70 and higher.

[JoelD]

I had the 2009 recently and I felt similarly. It was a good wine, but a bit too new world for me. overly ripe and a little goopy. But still had lots of good characteristics. May improve with 5 years in bottle.

Hopefully I'll get to try some of the older vintages in the near future to compare.

[Blanquito]

I am on the record praising the 03 Duhart. Haven’t had it in a good while, but I loved it on release and the $28 on-the-shelf price tag didn’t hurt. I did sell some of these during the Lafite craze, but I think I have some still.

I did bail out on buying this chateau when en premier prices started ranging from $70 and higher.

I would add that the 03 showed none of the unattractive notes (especially praline) that virtually every 2003 I tried on release did. But at the same time, it didn’t reach profound levels for me, at its best it was like a 92-93 pointer — still terrific but not profound.

[jckba]

Ian, nice notes as usual and I am especially sad to say that I flipped most of my Duhart Milon during the Lafite craze (2000, 2001, 2003 and 2005) but for other wines and not for cash, not sure if that makes a difference and naturally, the only vintage I have left at this stage is an unopened case of the 2009 (which was your least favorite!).

[AKR]

Here's an estate which has not crossed my lips in forever! Nice notes