2020 BWE WOTY: 2016 LEOVILLE BARTON / 2008 DOM PERIGNON

[JimHow]

2020 BWE Wine(s) of the Year

2016 Chateau Leoville Barton and 2008 Dom Perignon

From the earliest days of BWE -- now more than twenty years ago -- Chateau Leoville Barton has been a favorite property of this site. It was a wine that shined in the golden decade of the eighties, and has continued to improve through the nineties and into the new century, at prices that have remained rational. It is the quintessential St. Julien -- located near that bend in the road where St. Julien meets Pauillac -- the place in the solar system where everything comes together -- soil, weather, culture -- terroir -- that is most propitious for the growing of balanced, ripe wine grapes, particularly Cabernet Sauvignon -- that produce the magic of Bordeaux.

Chateau Leoville Barton has remained true to itself and the region, producing great wines consistently year after year, nothing over the top or controversial, just a commitment to excellence, like what we see each year just a little further north up the road, at Pichon Baron. I think it is fitting to select a wine from the epic 2016 vintage for a second year in a row… the greatest vintage ever? The appellation of St. Julien shined particularly in 2016.

We were hosted by Lilian Barton-Sartorus during our visit to Bordeaux in 2015, it was a memorable afternoon indeed. I’ve picked the 2016 Chateau Leoville Barton as the 2020 BWE Wine of the Year, but I really consider this as more of a lifetime achievement award, recognizing the consistent quality of this property over the decades.

2016 Leoville Barton was the Wine Spectator #1 wine of the year. In recognition of our honor, I will elevate it from third growth to second growth in my 2020 classification of the wines of the Medoc (I will also elevate d’Issan from fourth to third to replace it).

2020 has been a difficult year. It also happens to be our 20th year anniversary. Incredibly, BWE is now in its third decade. We created this site in February 2000 with almost no expectations, when the world was in many ways a different place. Many of the original BWEers from 2000 are still here today -- incredible, lifelong friendships -- and we have gained many more great friendships along the way. In 2020, we had to sadly cancel our trip to Bordeaux due to Covid.

Nonetheless, there are still many things for which to be thankful. A vaccine has arrived. A dark political time is coming to an end. And through it all, we have all of our friendships and goodwill here on BWE, still intact after all these years. I never cease to be amazed at the camaraderie, friendship -- even love -- that I see here, day after day, year after year, in the forum of Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts -- the greatest wine website on the internet, by far. It’s like we are to the other websites what d'Yquem is to the rest of Sauternes.

One of the great hallmarks of BWE, of course, is our epic offline dinners. And those dinners are almost always commenced with Champagne, usually generous quantities of it. It so happens that in the past year that we’ve had the opportunity to drink a lot of 2016 Bordeaux, one of the great vintages. We’ve also been drinking a lot of 2008 Champagne, which has to be one of the great vintages from that region as well. The 2008 Dom Perignon is brilliant. I’ve had it numerous times during 2020, mostly with other BWEers. It is as good as the Cristal and other great Champagnes from 2008 that we have tasted, just incredible ripeness and balance, a wine that will drink for many years, but that is oh so good now.

This is only the second time in the 21 years of selecting BWE wines of the year that we have chosen two wines, the last time being in 2004, when we selected the 2000 Pichon Baron and 2000 du Tertre to celebrate the greatness of the 2000 vintage. Picking two wines to share the honor is a decision I do not make frivolously. I just figure that, if ever there was a year where we needed to celebrate Champagne, this was it!

And thus, in celebration of now twenty-plus years with Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts -- the greatest wine website on the internet -- I hereby declare, in my capacity as Benevolent Dictator, that the 2016 Chateau Leoville Barton and 2008 Dom Perignon shall hereinafter be added to the pantheon of greatness that marks the past selections at BWE Wines of the Year.

As always, I am humbled and grateful to everyone, past and present, who have contributed to BWE over the years, and look forward to celebrating the wines from this special region with all of you for many more years to come! Happy holidays and Happy New Year!

2000: 1996 Sociando-Mallet
2001: 1989 Lynch-Bages
2002: 1995 d'Yquem
2003: 1999 Haut Brion Blanc
2004: 2000 Pichon Baron and 2000 du Tertre
2005: 2000 Margaux
2006: 2003 Pontet-Canet
2007: 2002 Leoville Poyferre
2008: 2005 Burgundy vintage (protest vote)
2009: 1989 Lafite Rothschild
2010: 2005 Cantemerle
2011: 2008 Leoville Poyferre
2012: 2009 Giscours
2013: 2004 Smith Haut Lafitte
2014: 2010 Chasse Spleen
2015: 2012 Leoville Las Cases
2016: 2012 Barde-Haut
2017: 2014 Calon Segur
2018: 2015 Brane Cantenac
2019: 2016 Tour Saint Christophe
2020: 2016 Leoville Barton and 2008 Dom Perignon

So it is written. So it shall be done.

JimHow
Benevolent Dictator
Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts

[Comte Flaneur]

A judgement of sagacity and perspicacity if I may be so bold.

[dstgolf]

Jim,

Well done and well said. Two very worthy choices for the year that we leave behind. A little celebration is definitely in order as we leave 2020 behind and what better way to do it than with a great Champagne and I'm sure what will be and is an epic Bordeaux from a perennial favourite chateau. Both are very deserved candidates and winners of this years award.

Happy New Year to everyone and hopefully 2021 brings hope, health and prosperity around the world ushering in a new American President and continued BWE camaraderie everywhere.

[jal]

Congratulations to the winners

I am not the AKR of post searchers, but I have not seen any tasting note on the 2016 Leoville Barton on BWE. Can someone direct me please?

In any case as stated, it doesn't matter as this is more of a lifetime achievement award for consistency.

I love the 2008 Dom Perignon!

Happy New Year everyone.

[JimHow]

2016 Leoville Barton was also the Wine Spectator #1 wine of the year, I haven’t had it but have seen great reports, and, indeed, in any event it deserves a lifetime achievement recognition.

[Comte Flaneur]

Leoville Barton is just one of the very many great wines in the 2016 vintage, and just one of the recent very great Leoville Bartons.

Jacques I tasted it a few years ago and the notes in this link sum it up well:

https://www.farrvintners.com/wine.php?wine=45972

It is entirely appropriate to get this life time achievement award because no other estate has shown the combination of improvement, consistency and maintenance of fair pricing as Leoville Barton. It is comfortably the largest holding in my portfolio.

[JimHow]

As I just added in my original announcement, I am officially elevating Leoville Barton from third growth to second growth in my 2020 BWE classification of the Medoc in recognition of our honor.

[Nicklasss]

Very wise choices Jim. I think that Chateau Léoville Barton has always been what we know : a very true red Saint Julien Bordeaux wine, with a great mixture of tradition and impressive wine making.

Being there in 2015 was a highlight as Ms. Barton Sartorius is talking about her wine with passion and genuinely (instead of having thev"politician talk" that some other chateaux have).

I did not had the 2008 Dom Pérignon, but i believe all whar BWEers are saying about it.

Happy holiday season to all.

Nic

[jal]

Thank you guys, I wasn't trying to rain on Leoville Barton's coronation parade, I was just looking for a TN on BWE and could not find one. I'm perfectly satisfied with the choice.

[JimHow]

Here's the Wine Spectator #1 wine of the year rating. I wish I bought more than the one bottle I got in NH!

https://top100.winespectator.com/2019/w ... le-barton/

[JoelD]

Solid choices Jim, I very much agree about the 2008 Dom. I have had the Dom a few times and it's fantastic and I think will eclipse the 2002.

Although I am surprised you chose that over the 2008 Cristal! I have not tried the Cristal but have been chomping at the bit to get some per your recommendations.

I like the the lifetime achievement award for Leoville Barton and as I get the chance to try more of the good vintages from the 2000's, I may also elevate to 2nd.

[jckba]

Nicely done with both selections Jim and hoping to see some of you in the new year.

[JimHow]

I considered the Cristal, Joel, which I rate a notch above the Dom, but I figure the Dom is more accessible and, again, this is more a celebration of Champagne in general, the 2008 Champagne vintage, and, in particular, the enjoyment that Champagne has given us on BWE over the years, as well as the uniqueness of this past year, our 20th, and the hopes moving forward in 2021 and beyond. Getting Champagne into the picture seemed to be a good idea, thanks, Chateau Vin, for the suggestion!

[stefan]

Congratulations, L-B and Dom. Two worthy winners.

[Blanquito]

Congratulations, L-B and Dom. Two worthy winners.

+1.

[Winona Chief]

Good choices, Jim. The 2008 Dom is wonderful (had it several times already this year) and Leoville Barton is so reliable and is a worthy choice.

Chris Bublitz

[Blanquito]

I know this will get a laugh here, but the 2008 Dom isn't ready! As brilliant as it is, and I think it's the best young Dom I've had, it was so coiled and tight when I had it in January:

2008 Dom Pérignon Champagne
Took a test drive with one of these ITNOS. Scents of musk flowers, lime and ginger, quite fresh without any yeast or brioche. The palate is extra zesty and coiled, with layers and layers extract and a super long, mouth-coating finish. Quite dry. When you take a sip, this bubbly has a real impact on the taste buds, weighty and profound with a real presence, yet somehow it’s light and bright all the same. There’s also a flavor here akin to umami or maybe something like a caraway seed (from Pinot?), to go with all the kaffir lime. In many ways, this reminds me of a great Muscadet as much as a champagne. I’m really enjoying this tonight but this is way too young. Wonderful potential. Probably 93 pts today, but 95+ when at peak.

[OrlandoRobert]

Most excellent choices, Jimbo!

I smelled that Dom coming. It’s really good.

And Leoville Barton is really an archetype for Bordeaux. A staunch classic.

[JimHow]

Yeah, the admission of Leoville Barton into the pantheon is long overdue.

[Dandersson]

Great choice Jim. Leoville Barton's reputation for being a great strictly traditional left bank wine producer is well deserving the attention and reward.
Don't have the 2016 but exited to have the 2019 Future to be delivered.

Happy Friday!

best, Dan

[Musigny 151]

Good choices. They would grace any table.

[jal]

You're right Patrick, I did have a chuckle.

Great tasting note, but while I agree the Dom is tightly coiled, I find it gives a lot of pleasure right now. I am afraid it will change for the worst with another Blanquito, it will become richer, deeper and more powerful and lose the freshness, balance and complexity it now has.

[tim]

Dear Jim,

As a long time BWE participant, I would appreciate a heads-up before declaring a WOTY. As you know, BWE has an impact on the market, much like a Parker score did in the day. And the run on a particular wine can contribute to its scarcity or increase its price substantially. As a service to us, the loyal followers, you really should inform us in advance of any such action. This will provide us with the opportunity to corner the market before the hoards of scavengers descend.

Yours respectfully,

Timmy
BWE France Czar 2015

[JimHow]

Ha ha Timmy yes we usually release it in the last week if the year but I was inspired the other night. I heard from our friend Howard Kwok, he was mentioning that the 2017 Tour St. Christophe came in at #4 with Jeb Dunnuck. Obviously, Jeb is following the lead of last year’s selection of 2016 Tour Saint Christophe as BWE wine of the year. It is a lot of responsibility being such a market influencer.

Here is Howard’s note:

Hi Jim,

It's been a really crazy year for all of us. I hope everything is calmer on your side after the election. My wife and I are finally back in Hong Kong after 11 months of being in France and then mainland China. It's good to be home but I wish things could go back to normal as soon as possible. At least we still have great wines to drink.

I have some great news regardings Chateau Tour Saint Christophe. Jeb Dunnuck just released his top wines of 2020, and Chateau Tour Saint Christophe was ranked #4! This is a huge surprise, considering that it is ranked ahead of incredible producers such as VCC, SQN and Realm from Napa. The craziest thing is our price is significantly lower than most other wines on this list.

https://jebdunnuck.com/2020/12/top-100-wines-of-2020/
image.png

2017 is often an overlooked vintage since it came after 2015 and 2016, but I think in time, opinions will change because it really is an enjoyable vintage. We are very grateful for these recognitions, as well as for your continuing support of our efforts.

Due to Covid, I haven't tasted our 2020s at all, but from what our team tells me, it's shaping up to be a great vintage to match this memorable year.

Stay safe and I hope you have a wonderful holiday season.

Best regards,

Howard

[RPCV]

2017 is often an overlooked vintage since it came after 2015 and 2016, but I think in time, opinions will change because it really is an enjoyable vintage. We are very grateful for these recognitions, as well as for your continuing support of our efforts.

We are blessed to experience the greatest run of consecutive vintages ever in Bordeaux. 2014-2019 GOAT run...may add 2020 to that list in a couple of years. Cheers all

[DavidG]

Great choices Jim.

Leoville Barton was due and 2016 is an outstanding year.

Loved Jacques' description of how the 2008 Dom will get worse by becoming richer, deeper, and more powerful over time. Can’t argue with love of freshness and balance in that wine. I’ll let mine rest for now.

[Nicklasss]

For once, i was spot on poroposing a Pichon Lalade or Léoville Barton as 2020 BWE WOTY, as first candidates.

I'm happy that the 2016 Léoville Barton won. I did not tried that specific vintage, but the 2015 and 2017 could have also be awarded, two excellent Léoville Barton too.

Now i guess, we need to find a spot for Pichon Lalande too in the future BWE WOTY... would it be possible to have a third wine from 2016 vintage wining in a row? Let's figure out in a year!

Nic

[s*d*r]

I know this will get a laugh here, but the 2008 Dom isn't ready! As brilliant as it is, and I think it's the best young Dom I've had, it was so coiled and tight

Great tasting note, but while I agree the Dom is tightly coiled, I find it gives a lot of pleasure right now. I am afraid it will change for the worst with another Blanquito, it will become richer, deeper and more powerful and lose the freshness, balance and complexity it now has.

10.17.20: It’s no surprise this is almost painfully backwards, maybe even more so than on release. The usual Dom Pérignon citrus notes are there and for a few minutes, a tantalizing whiff of toast and smoke. There’s some enjoyment now for it’s balance and super lively froth but there’s so much more to emerge in another decade.

So I agree with Blanquito, it needs two more Blanquitos. Of course you are allowed to enjoy your Dom Pérignon painfully young if you are a masochist .

Stu

[Comte Flaneur]

For once, i was spot on poroposing a Pichon Lalade or Léoville Barton as 2020 BWE WOTY, as first candidates.

I'm happy that the 2016 Léoville Barton won. I did not tried that specific vintage, but the 2015 and 2017 could have also be awarded, two excellent Léoville Barton too.

Now i guess, we need to find a spot for Pichon Lalande too in the future BWE WOTY... would it be possible to have a third wine from 2016 vintage wining in a row? Let's figure out in a year!

Nic

Nic by all accounts the 2017 PLL is an outstanding wine

[JimHow]

I need to try some 2017s.
Gerry, it looks like NH didn't carry much of them this year, any inside scoop?

[Gerry M.]

I think they went light on 2017 due to still having a relative large amount of 2015 and 2016 still in stock.

[jal]

To each his own

I don’t get young Bordeaux; it gives very little pleasure
I don’t get old Champagne; I find it heavy and cloying

But that P2 whether 2000 or 2002 was phenomenal

So these are more like guidelines anyway.

[JimHow]

I agree with you Jacques. I generally love these young champagnes, I found both the Cristal and Dom from 2008 to be spectacular. I sat out there on the back deck one night this past summer and drank a whole bottle of 2008 Cristal, I can’t usually drink that much Champagne in one sitting but this was just so amazing.

The one time I really enjoyed Champagne with significant age on it was when Winona Chief brought the 1996 Dom Perignon to my house, we drank it out in the back deck on a perfect August late afternoon, it just seemed to be perfectly a point.

[Jay Winton]

The BD has spoken. Ignore at your peril. 2016 is the last classified vintage I will buy and not much but I will attempt to have some available if you visit me in the ICU. They make a lot of DP and I always wonder about the grape sources. Still in great years, a contender.

[Blanquito]

Fun stuff, guys.

I think a further elaboration is worthwhile on this topic of aging champagne. For my palate, I usually don’t prefer old champagne either — except for a few very long lived bubblies (like Krug, Winston Churchill, and Dom) — most high quality champagne is fully ready within 10 years of the vintage. Of course, this varies from vintage to vintage, but I think the 02s and 04s from most houses are really in the zone these days (and have been for a while) where they are still fresh and have good fizz but are texturally and aromatically open. In contrast, for at least the last 5 years I’ve found many 96s too long in the tooth. And finally, I would agree that one of the joys of champagne is its pop and pour versatility.

It’s just the 08 LDom... it’s one of those exceptional houses that I find needs time to shine it’s brightest... and the 08 vintage, which is a vin garde year if there ever was one in champagne, the 08s are just so structured.

[s*d*r]

To each his own

I don’t get young Bordeaux; it gives very little pleasure
I don’t get old Champagne; I find it heavy and cloying

So these are more like guidelines anyway.

At least you got the Bordeaux part right .

[stefan]

I love fine old Champagne, especially those that are Chardonnay based and Dom Perignon. But for my taste, most vintage Champagne is best before age 20 and most NV 2-10 years after release.

[Blanquito]

The 88 Pol Roger Winston Churchill and the 90 Dom are probably the two best old champagnes I’ve had along with that 79 Egly-Ouriet we had at a DC convention. I’ve had a bunch of 96s through the years that were terrific — especially the Dom and Taittinger Comtes — but I think I liked them a bit younger when they were fresher. I’m not a big fan of a fully oxidative profile in champagne.

Those of us who like old bubbly, what are some of the good ones?

[DavidG]

I prefer NV Champagne at 3-10 years age, except Krug which goes longer. Most good vintage Champagnes I like to hold until they are at least 15-20 years old.

[JimHow]

I brought two bottles of Dom to the Friday night BWE dinner in Denver, I thought I had brought two bottles of the 2008 but one was accidentally the 2009. There is no comparison between the vintages.