A horizontal of Burlotto and vertical of Monvigliero
Posted: Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:21 pm
A group of us gathered last night at 67 Pall Mall in London’s St-James’s, to sample the 2016 range of Burlotto Barolos, after the success of our 2015 dinner in 2019. We were going to do it in November but our plans were thwarted by the resurgence of Covid. Burlotto is now one of the most sought after estates in the Barolo region, and sadly prices have escalated ridiculously.
As with the 2015 dinner, we did it at 67 Pall Mall last night, but this time we secured a private room, which afforded plenty of space for 54 of 67PM’s voluminous Zalto burgundy glasses for the six of us. No need, then, to schlep over those bulky Conternos with all the protective packaging. But I suspect these wines would have tasted even better in these glasses, and we had one of Roberto Conterno’s wines in the mix.
Sharpener
Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002
More effervescent than bubbly, this nevertheless is bursting with energy and an array of citrus exotic fruits and nuances, with plenty of depth and length on the palate. Fabulous champagne. 95
Burlotto
Flight one: 2016
Normale
Crimson, bright ripe red fruits, rose petals and a melange of spices and herbs - sage mint; beautifully balanced - a fabulous generic Barolo: 92-94
Acclivi
Minty, mineral, herby entry, quite a tannic mid-palate, forbidding even, and good finish; more expansive mid-palate and weight than the normale. Like other Acclivis it has quite a stern personality, relative to rest of the Burlotto stable: 94-96
Cannubi
Creosote and haunting perfume, tannins and grip on the palate, sterner than the Monvigliero, and holding more in reserve; reminds me a bit of a young DRC; outstanding potential: 96-98
Monvigliero
Multi-faceted flavour profile. Has the weightlessness, delicacy and poise of truly great wines. Olives, cherry red, frankincense (?), gardenia (?); sensual and gorgeous; roses, herbs, spices, such finesse: 97-99
Flight two - older Monvigliero
2004
Relatively subdued nose, compared to the others, beautifully dextrous wine underneath - tobacco and olives, subtle and nuanced, beautiful equilibrium, fully ready now. 95
2006
More perfume than the 2004, and lovely herby note, such a beautiful wine. Captivating and so approachable now, so light on its feet, such equilibrium, superb wine 96
2010
Fabulous entry of strawberries, and myriad herbs, explosively aromatic, the most enthralling nose of the night; bigger, richer, fruitier than its flight mates; big structure below, can be broached now, but long life ahead 97
Flight three: some other 2008s
2008 G. Conterno Barolo Francia
Aristocratic, compact, fleet-footed, plays out in a relatively minor key; accessible, outshone on the night but still a classy wine in which you can sense the attention to detail 94
2008 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2008
Opened earlier in the day. Oxidative, but not oxidised. Comes across as a bit contrived, souped up and oaky, and outclassed in this company. On its own it would be a wine you would be more than happy to drink, however 90
Flight four: Dessert
Cappellano Chinato (2010 base)
This bursts into the room like the Spanish Inquisition, but doesn’t fluff its lines in the same way. It has herbs, spices and goodness knows what else added to the mix, but the recipe is a secret. Sweet herbs and spices almost overwhelm the senses, with clove, cardamom and camomile to the fore. Tough to get your head around and hence to rate.
As with the 2015 dinner, we did it at 67 Pall Mall last night, but this time we secured a private room, which afforded plenty of space for 54 of 67PM’s voluminous Zalto burgundy glasses for the six of us. No need, then, to schlep over those bulky Conternos with all the protective packaging. But I suspect these wines would have tasted even better in these glasses, and we had one of Roberto Conterno’s wines in the mix.
Sharpener
Piper-Heidsieck Rare 2002
More effervescent than bubbly, this nevertheless is bursting with energy and an array of citrus exotic fruits and nuances, with plenty of depth and length on the palate. Fabulous champagne. 95
Burlotto
Flight one: 2016
Normale
Crimson, bright ripe red fruits, rose petals and a melange of spices and herbs - sage mint; beautifully balanced - a fabulous generic Barolo: 92-94
Acclivi
Minty, mineral, herby entry, quite a tannic mid-palate, forbidding even, and good finish; more expansive mid-palate and weight than the normale. Like other Acclivis it has quite a stern personality, relative to rest of the Burlotto stable: 94-96
Cannubi
Creosote and haunting perfume, tannins and grip on the palate, sterner than the Monvigliero, and holding more in reserve; reminds me a bit of a young DRC; outstanding potential: 96-98
Monvigliero
Multi-faceted flavour profile. Has the weightlessness, delicacy and poise of truly great wines. Olives, cherry red, frankincense (?), gardenia (?); sensual and gorgeous; roses, herbs, spices, such finesse: 97-99
Flight two - older Monvigliero
2004
Relatively subdued nose, compared to the others, beautifully dextrous wine underneath - tobacco and olives, subtle and nuanced, beautiful equilibrium, fully ready now. 95
2006
More perfume than the 2004, and lovely herby note, such a beautiful wine. Captivating and so approachable now, so light on its feet, such equilibrium, superb wine 96
2010
Fabulous entry of strawberries, and myriad herbs, explosively aromatic, the most enthralling nose of the night; bigger, richer, fruitier than its flight mates; big structure below, can be broached now, but long life ahead 97
Flight three: some other 2008s
2008 G. Conterno Barolo Francia
Aristocratic, compact, fleet-footed, plays out in a relatively minor key; accessible, outshone on the night but still a classy wine in which you can sense the attention to detail 94
2008 Vietti Barolo Lazzarito 2008
Opened earlier in the day. Oxidative, but not oxidised. Comes across as a bit contrived, souped up and oaky, and outclassed in this company. On its own it would be a wine you would be more than happy to drink, however 90
Flight four: Dessert
Cappellano Chinato (2010 base)
This bursts into the room like the Spanish Inquisition, but doesn’t fluff its lines in the same way. It has herbs, spices and goodness knows what else added to the mix, but the recipe is a secret. Sweet herbs and spices almost overwhelm the senses, with clove, cardamom and camomile to the fore. Tough to get your head around and hence to rate.