The infinite modesty of 1996 Sociando Mallet

[Comte Flaneur]

This bottle was decanted at 345pm, back in the bottle at 7pm. This had every chance to shine. This wine is now fully mature, showing plenty of tertiary development, plenty of leathery notes, plenty of green funky stuff too, which is not quite annoying but definitely noticeable. Quite a lot of asparagus going on…if that is your thing. I would say this is at its (modest) peak now. It will last but not improve. Rather than help it to shine, the Conterno glass underscores that this wine needs a skinnier, narrower glass. It exposes its modesty. I have not tried this lauded wine for a while, but my I remain underwhelmed. Michel Bettane (I think it was who) rated this in the top three wines of 1996 with two other FGs I think it was Lafite, Margaux or Latour. This is now on a slow boat to China. It is a little past it’s very modest peak, and has nowhere to go from here. In my experience you are much better off with the 1995 or 2000 S-M. I will sell my third case of this. A good investment, but lousy consumption, proposition.

[JimHow]

This, of course, was our very first BWE Wine of the Year back in 2000.
It may help sell the point that Robert Parker, James Suckling, and I endorse, that is, Bordeaux wines should generally be consumed in that younger, 7 to 15 year age window.

[OrlandoRobert]

This, of course, was our very first BWE Wine of the Year back in 2000.
It may help sell the point that Robert Parker, James Suckling, and I endorse, that is, Bordeaux wines should generally be consumed in that younger, 7 to 15 year age window.

Have you ever been to Bern’s? You may rethink that window.

[Blanquito]

Hi Ian, nice note. While I concur 100% that the 96 S-M is fully mature or even just past, I think I am more fond of it than you. I’ve pretty consistently rated it between 90-92 pts and found it very distinctive and interesting. There is a fair amount of bottle variation, as for most S-M. To be sure, it sounds like we’re drinking the same wine but it is speaking to us differently

I’ve had it more recently with similar impressions but I post my last formal note on the wine from 3/17, just as an additional perspective.

1996 Château Sociando-Mallet
A thread on another board critical of the 1996 Sociando Mallet prompted me open a bottle of it, as I hadn't had it since DC '16 en magnum...

I have to say, I'm really digging these first few sips. Not a blockbuster to be sure, but I get enough ripeness to be content. The midpalate is a tad lean, but not dilute. It has the signature SM greenery- pine resin, pyrazines, black pepper, a little ash. Yum.

Ok, this won't make you forget the 96 Pichon Lalande, but for the $30 this cost as recently as 2005, I'll take it.

My bottle tonight of the 96 S-M is brimming with character. It really is the antithesis of a Rollandized wine. Folks who prefer modern-styled St. Emilion probably hate wines like this. I'm in love.

This wine is not perfect. Not by any means. It's a little lean, a little green. But my bottle (at least) is wonderfully aromatic and interesting. It is fresh and engaging. There is the essence of juniper and pine and woodsy notes. There's enough fruit to be charming, but this is a food wine. And it has plenty of gravitas. In my opinion, it is a style of claret that should be celebrated, not hounded out of existence by market forces. To his credit, RMP has long appreciated this chateau and I thank him for that.

Incidentally, a vintage of S-M that fits the critical note on the 1996 could be the 2000, which was too lean to love for me last year. But I give the 1996 an overall score of 92 pts.

[robert goulet]

This, of course, was our very first BWE Wine of the Year back in 2000.
It may help sell the point that Robert Parker, James Suckling, and I endorse, that is, Bordeaux wines should generally be consumed in that younger, 7 to 15 year age window.

So consume during the boring phase Jim?

[stefan]

I never had an off bottle of 1996 of Sociando Mallet. I think all were in the Blanquito 90-92 range.

[Claudius2]

Guys
Not too sure what to make of this.
I’ve had SM 1996 several times and with fond memories.
The last time was just before the COVID-19 lockdowns crashed everything, but it was actually the best SM for drinking young I’ve ever had.

I happily voted for this as the BWE WOTY in 2000, after drinking several of them in London with a few Aussie expats. I recall a tight, minerally wine with dark fruit, a touch of oak and long, cool finish. It tasted similar in Australia when I got back and was surprisingly drinkable young. The 82, 86 and 90 were not friendly young and the 2000 and 2001 were rather green to my palate and I stopped buying it until 2010.

My most recent experience with this wine was a bit weird. It seemed rather gamey and more like a Rhone wine or aged Aussie wine from the Hunter or Barossa rather than Bordeaux. I thought it was Bretty with a slight sweaty, stinky character or possibly a touch of VA. Whatever was up with it, it was an odd wine. Absolutely nothing like what it was like young - and a lot better.

Cheers
Mark

[Claret]

A recent bottle with a high fill was excellent. Tertiary with rounded tannin and guiding acidity, this bottle delivered. No green notes whatsoever. Glad to have 1 left.

[Jay Winton]

My first case purchase due to the BWE devils. I drank most of them too young. 1 bottle left.

[Gerry M.]

I just had the 96' side by side with the 04' at our wine/poker game this past Sunday. My notes mirror Clarets' with no hint of green. Both wines were delightful.

[JimHow]

For those newer BWEers who may not know, 1996 Sociando Mallet was our first BWE Wine of the Year in 2000.

[Chateau Vin]

All this talk about our maiden WOTY is making me pull out a bottle out of the last two I have.

Last time when I had maybe 3 years ago, I don’t recall as being as disappointed as Comte, but I also don’t recall feeling as delightful as Gerry. I popped and poured at that time, but I felt a bit of air would have benefited, as I remember the subsequent pours were progressively better. Maybe when I pop one, I will give atleast half hour air and see where it goes from there...

[Comte Flaneur]

I still have one left … last chance saloon

[JimHow]

I drank all of mine about 20 years ago.