BWE in the 916

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AKR
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BWE in the 916

Post by AKR »

On a wet dreary night a small cadre of Western BWE gathered to pull corks. Winter storms and baby sitter issues had shrunk our numbers, but not our enthusiasm. Most of the wines in the lineup were new to me, at least for vintages. We started with a platter of oysters, green apples, and various cheddars to go with crackers, nuts, and honeycomb.

2013 Hanzell chardonnay [Sonoma Valley] This is their estate bottling and its an old school non malo CA chard, so it can age and is more reminiscent of White Burgundy than the usual fruity/tropical/big flavors one expects in this varietal when its local. Alcohol is high at 14.3% but it doesn't taste that way, and if anything is lean/taut for my tastes. One of our group used to be member of their club, and says this bottle is typical for this age. Not really my bag but good with the bivalves.

NV Duc de Romet [Champagne] We had some of this open already (for French 75's the prior night) so this was pressed into service when the call came for something bubbly. It might have been off, as it was showing some iodine character.

With that we segued into the first course, Alsatian mini tartlettes (crimini & Emmentaler, as well as bacon & carmelized onions) which reminded me of old BWE stalwart James Grandison who used to prepare these at events a lifetime ago. With them, was a brace of St Juliens.
mini tartlettes on arugula
mini tartlettes on arugula
1989 Gloria [St Julien] This was decanted, for sediment. 12.5% abv. Mushrooms, forest and sous bois in a mix of tertiary complexity. The fruit has faded but it's still tasty, and a tribute to this blend's aging ability. The edges are full orange now, so I believe it should be drunk up. It's not as concentrated as the younger wines. Love those old Gloria labels, even their texture.

2003 Langoa Barton [St Julien] 13% abv, more youthful fruit here. A brighter garnet robe, but also some fading at the edges too. I find this quite red fruited, with a hint of Cordier* funk on the nose. There is nothing off putting, or noticeable about the vintage - no heat, flabbiness etc. We didn't decant this but I don't think it needed it. It still has lots of life ahead of it.

We relaxed and chatted, clearing the table for dinner which was coq au vin and browned potatoes. Sadly, the upload size limits are preventing uploads of a picture. Next up were another pair of classics.

2005 Gazin [Pomerol] This 13.5% abv was decanted for an hour or so before consumption. It's a big concentrated Pomerol, laden with structure and tannin, despite its age and aeration. Great fruit density and truffle notes, but it needs another 5 to 10 years of cellar time to really shine. A very well regarded vintage for right bank wines.

2000 Cantenac Brown [Margaux] 13% abv, and we should have decanted this. It kept on blossoming over time, so a little aeration early that would have been good. Fine grained tannin, polite acids, and sweet juicy red fruited Margauxberries on the palate. Heavy sediment, crusted bottle. The color is garnet, but with a dark core and not much fading at the rims -- it is aging unusually well. Owners need not worry about this for another decade.
a lovely spectrum of classics
a lovely spectrum of classics
We finished up with raspberry creme puffs (I think that's what they were?) along with an Alsatian sweet wine

1997 Bott-Geyl Tokay Pinot Gris VT [Alsace Grand Cru] This is a 13% abv late harvest sticky (despite the importer tagging it with a 'table wine' strip) whose AOC I cannot interpret/understand. As far I can tell the 500ml bottle just says 'Alsace Grand Cru' and I'd expect, producers have to disclose the vineyard/village etc. In very very tiny type there it does say Beblenheim, but I think that's where it's vinified/elevaged, rather than the growing site. This is not a botrytis style dessert wine, and doesn't have the zippy acidity of Loire stickies either - so lots of sugar but not the usual markers of other ways to age this category (e.g. oxidation, fortification, botryitis, oak, acid, etc.). There are sweet apple cider notes here, and the group consumed it all.

It was nice catching up with everyone. Sadly I had misplaced my tasting notes journal before this, so I was not writing anything down at the time. [Everyone in the house is keeping an eye out for my battered little book so hopefully it will turn up] I really like wines at this age/stage - roughly ten to thirty years in age - when they have shed their grapey youth and have rounded out the tannin yet grown in complexity.

* yes, I know they are not involved at all
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Jay Winton
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by Jay Winton »

Nice gathering Arv and notes. James was one of the first BWEs I met in person, I wonder what happened to him??
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JoelD
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by JoelD »

Sounds like a fun night. I had the 82 Gloria and 04 Cantenac recently and both showed quite well.

The real question, is the Cantenac "worth" more or less than $100?
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jckba
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by jckba »

Nice notes and recap Arv.

And Joel, is Cantenac Brown ever more than $100? I generally find this Cantenac property a little too modern leaning for my palate and instead routinely buy D’Issan and Giscours for my future Margaux enjoyment at similar price points.
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JoelD
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by JoelD »

jckba wrote: Tue Mar 07, 2023 6:59 pm Nice notes and recap Arv.

And Joel, is Cantenac Brown ever more than $100? I generally find this Cantenac property a little too modern leaning for my palate and instead routinely buy D’Issan and Giscours for my future Margaux enjoyment at similar price points.
The 2000 definitely trades above $100. Blanquito had a whole thread on it. But he got a below market deal for $78. I paid 20-30 for the 2004 that was wonderful. It was just slightly modern leaning. But I agree that I prefer both D’Issan and Giscours over it. Have not had the 2000 though. Need some of the 2014
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William P
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by William P »

It was a great night with friends and wine. Arv put out a great spread and we enjoyed it immensely. Sadly, Glenn could not make it over the Sierra but there's always next time. Thanks again Arv.

Bill
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AKR
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by AKR »

Was great too see everyone. Bill I have your Loxton's bag in the foyer, btw.

I'm not sure what Cantenac Brown goes for on release now, I'd assume $50-75 like the aforementioned d'Issan and Giscours, but I don't think one would be unhappy with cellaring it. Given all the inflation in the region over the years, this has not caught the glamour bid.
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Claret
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by Claret »

Would have loved to be there, but impossible Sierra snow conditions.

I had planned on bringing 2000 Langoa Barton so it would have been a nice contrast.
Glenn
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Nicklasss
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by Nicklasss »

Very good report and the wine selection is nice.

I want to make it one day to the 916, as you have a great group there.

I did not had lot of Cantenac Brun, but the 1999 was very good to me, many years ago. I have some 2009 at home, but never had it.
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William P
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Re: BWE in the 916

Post by William P »

Nicklasss wrote: Fri Mar 10, 2023 1:20 am Very good report and the wine selection is nice.
I want to make it one day to the 916, as you have a great group there.
And we would love to have you Nick. Enjoy.

Bill
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