So What If I Like Sluttiness in Sauternes? Climens 1988

[Jackdaw Dawson]

I drink Sauternes because they are rich in flavor, decadent in mouthfeel, sweet on the finish, and make me very happy. It's like a warmer, still version of Champagne in terms of the happiness-generation factor. But Sauternes barely get much love these days by the public or press, and that's a shame. In the eyes of many American drinkers, the bias is based upon the age-old view that Port/Sauternes/etc. are just "sweet after-dinner drinks," that can be bundled together willy-nilly regardless of color, origin, or flavor. In the eyes of the press and world of sommeliers, it seems that because Sauternes doesn't show "an overarching minerality" as readily as other wines, and are a bit "slutty" if you will, they essentially get overlooked as not being "serious." With the exception of d'Yquem, of course, b/c it has a centuries-old reputation and is essentially the Hermes of the wine world.

It really is a shame because the wines of Sauternes can be a relative bargain, especially with regard to older vintages. I drank a Climens 1988 on Memorial Day, which is clearly in its middle years, as am I, and it has toned down the opulence and volume that characterized it in its youth, as have I. The pinepple flavors and dried tangelo rind notes are embedded in a medium-bodied and only semi-unctuous state, and the flavor profile is quite clean and elegant on the backend. I'd say drink this wine now, as it is peaking, or at least this bottle was on the day we drank it. (94 points)

Best,

Jackdaw

[JimHow]

Hey Jackdaw!
Rushing out the door, looking forward to reading your note.
Jim

[Houndsong]

Preaching to the choir. But I'd just say I prefer it as an apertif. And I unequivocally do not regret that the public and the press give it no love, as you say. I wish they'd give Yquem considerably less love as I would like the opportunity to slate it just once for my own money.

As it is there's getting to be far too much love for Bordeaux generally, if it's to be judged by the money suitors are willing to throw at it for a go.

[DavidG]

Thanks for the note and great to see you posting again. I have a few of those in the cellar and I'm now tempted to open one. I can live with the lack of attention paid to Sauternes - it keeps prices in check.

[Nicklasss]

Hi Jackdaw.

good to see you posting again. How are the kids? My little Julien turned 1 year old this week while Simone is 2.5 years old.

Hope I'll see you and the little family in the neir future.

Nic

[Jackdaw Dawson]

Jim, Nic, and DavidG: Great to hear from you too. I hope you and your families are well. Nic, congrats on everything. Carolina is now 6.5 years old, and our son Owen turns 3 in July.

Best regards,

John

[aimeedogdogdog]

Hi Jackdaw,

Good to hear you here!

We had some 1988 Climens at the convention dinner, which was just as you described: pure, nicely balanced, clean, focused, and with delicious flavors. It's my kind of wine. I think I liked it even better than d'Yquem. I expected it to develop further and bring out greater complexity.
Please say hi to Pappadoc for Chris, Tessa, and me.

Nick, Jackdaw,

It looks like we would have the next BWE convention in the east coast (NY?) Maybe we could all go and bring our little guys. I am sure they would play together very well. Tessa is 3 and 1/2 years old now. I think the girls would have a blast playing together. They could speak french to one another, from all I know.

Werner

[JimHow]

I agree, that 1988 Climens we had in SF was one of my wines of the night.

[JonoB]

Ssshhh, Sauternes is rubbish... Kapish?

[Jay Winton]

I certainly enjoyed the 88 Climens at the dinner. mrs vino thought too much!

[Jackdaw Dawson]

Werner,

Sorry, meant to post in this thread and ended up posting in another. Looking forward to the east coast play date with the kids. ; )

Best,

John

[sdr]

Has anyone ever had Climens in any vintage at any age that was disappointing?

Young, old, middle-aged, they're all fabulous. If I was pushed to the wall, I'd pick the '89 as my favorite. Not at all overdone or overoaked, blossoming beautifully. As for the old vintages, the '71 is still lively and wonderful.

My only problem is when to drink them. I prefer to have sauternes with, or just after, dessert, but even a half bottle seems like a lot after a wine-soaked dinner, at home or at a restaurant.

How about a sauternes theme tasting at BWE 2012 NYE?

Stuart

[stefan]

Maybe have the blind tasting consist of Sauternes? Nothing is better than starting dinner with a sugar high.

[JimHow]

A Sauternes tasting at NYC '12 sounds good to me!

[RDD]

If you think Sauternes get's no respect, ask your Dad about BA and TBA's.
Which is fine by me as it leaves the price low.
I'll have to try the Climens as I have a good stash of 1988 and 1986.
Maybe with some 1988 Lafaurie-Peyraguey which was a great bargain.

[DavidG]

TBAs may get no respect, but they sure seem to command a respectful price...