Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
- Winona Chief
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Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Great quote from Neal Martin in his review of 2003 Bordeaux on eRobert Parker. "Putting the great northern Médoc wines to one side for a moment, the problem with the 2003 Bordeaux at ten years of age is a prosaic one...
…they have become boring ."
Neal sounds more like our Benevolent Dictator than Mr. Parker.
Chris Bublitz
…they have become boring ."
Neal sounds more like our Benevolent Dictator than Mr. Parker.
Chris Bublitz
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Not that I really give a flying rat's arse, but what did he happen to say about the '03 Montrose that left country bumpkins like the two OrlandoBobbies swooning?
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
He loved Montrose, calling it one of the great successes of the vintage and awading it 97 points. He called out Adam Lechmere of Decanter for proclaiming it "thin." Other than the best Northern Mecocs, he felt many '03s were losing steam and boring. A bit more of his article:
"I will come straight to the point. I feel compelled to publish my annual 10-year on report hosted by London wine merchants, Bordeaux Index, sooner rather than later, because the only notes I have seen thus far, courtesy of Decanter scribe Adam Lechmere were…how shall I put this…a tad wide of the mark. There is a point where subjectivity tips over to plain wrong. Twittering that the monumental Château Montrose 2003 as “a bit thin” left me choking on my cup of tea. If that wine is “thin” then what constitutes “full-bodied” Bordeaux? Do winemakers now have to make sure their wines are solid? You would have a stronger case arguing that the world is flat. Some people should really be vetted before pontificating upon matters as important as wine.
However, Lechmere’s assertion that many 2003 Bordeaux wines are ageing poorly is true. The vintage revelled in its precocious infancy but time was never going to favour all but the very finest wines, to wit, those advantaged by superior terroir that could withstand the torrid, merciless heat of that infamous summer. Do you remember the vignerons persuading the world that the vintage was rescued by dangerously low acidity levels being remedied during alcoholic fermentation, acidity “miraculously” leached out from the pips and skins? That was partly true. Acidity levels are not as low as you might have predicted. However, the 2003 vintage is one where you really have to choose carefully, an inconsistent vintage that is increasingly diverse with each passing year.
Whilst I would not contend that most Pomerol wines are best avoided, one should make the distinction between two great names such as Trotanoy and Petrus. Go to the vineyard of Trotanoy. Pick up one of those large stones strewn across the earth and consider how much heat it would have absorbed and reflected back onto those beleaguered berries singed above. It is a disappointing wine from a truly great name. Then nip over to Petrus. Peruse the chapter on “smectite” clay in my book. Consider how its molecular structure, its sponge-like ability would have mitigated against hydric stress with greater efficiency any other Pomerol cru. That is why the apparently “…dry, and tired” Petrus is de facto, the only bona fide great wine of the appellation. Other crus such as Vieux Chateau Certan, whose vines are partially located on the smectite clay and also comprise of less heat sensitive Cabernet Franc, also fared slightly better, but stylistically they reflect the weather more than terroir and consequently united by conformity.
Think of Saint Estèphe. It is generally agreed that the finest 2003s hail from the northern Médoc, although according to Mr. Lechmere, the appellation “had not fared well”. Had he driven past Château Montrose in early September, he would have noticed something unusual...greenness! Similar to Petrus, the higher proportion of clay meant that the vines’ roots could eke out moisture and did not close down or shed their leaves. The results are clearly tangible in the wine, one of the great successes of the vintage. No wonder Jean-Francois Moueix bought a little chunk of the Saint Estèphe!
We have to broach the cause célèbre, the “Archduke Franz Ferdinand” of fermented grape juice, Château Pavie 2003. It is true to say that I have never been a fan of this particular wine and approaching it with an open mind (as always), I have to say that it continues to underwhelm. I would not denigrate it with the zeal of my compatriots, but here I just feel that the wine was pushed too hard in the winery. The ‘03 was nudged into over-maturity and that is now beginning to tell. This is in stark contrast to the Pavie 2000. Served blind a few weeks ago, now that is an irresistible, sophisticated modern day legend. Few can achieve stellar performances year in and year out, and 2003 simply is not one of the estate’s triumphs."
"I will come straight to the point. I feel compelled to publish my annual 10-year on report hosted by London wine merchants, Bordeaux Index, sooner rather than later, because the only notes I have seen thus far, courtesy of Decanter scribe Adam Lechmere were…how shall I put this…a tad wide of the mark. There is a point where subjectivity tips over to plain wrong. Twittering that the monumental Château Montrose 2003 as “a bit thin” left me choking on my cup of tea. If that wine is “thin” then what constitutes “full-bodied” Bordeaux? Do winemakers now have to make sure their wines are solid? You would have a stronger case arguing that the world is flat. Some people should really be vetted before pontificating upon matters as important as wine.
However, Lechmere’s assertion that many 2003 Bordeaux wines are ageing poorly is true. The vintage revelled in its precocious infancy but time was never going to favour all but the very finest wines, to wit, those advantaged by superior terroir that could withstand the torrid, merciless heat of that infamous summer. Do you remember the vignerons persuading the world that the vintage was rescued by dangerously low acidity levels being remedied during alcoholic fermentation, acidity “miraculously” leached out from the pips and skins? That was partly true. Acidity levels are not as low as you might have predicted. However, the 2003 vintage is one where you really have to choose carefully, an inconsistent vintage that is increasingly diverse with each passing year.
Whilst I would not contend that most Pomerol wines are best avoided, one should make the distinction between two great names such as Trotanoy and Petrus. Go to the vineyard of Trotanoy. Pick up one of those large stones strewn across the earth and consider how much heat it would have absorbed and reflected back onto those beleaguered berries singed above. It is a disappointing wine from a truly great name. Then nip over to Petrus. Peruse the chapter on “smectite” clay in my book. Consider how its molecular structure, its sponge-like ability would have mitigated against hydric stress with greater efficiency any other Pomerol cru. That is why the apparently “…dry, and tired” Petrus is de facto, the only bona fide great wine of the appellation. Other crus such as Vieux Chateau Certan, whose vines are partially located on the smectite clay and also comprise of less heat sensitive Cabernet Franc, also fared slightly better, but stylistically they reflect the weather more than terroir and consequently united by conformity.
Think of Saint Estèphe. It is generally agreed that the finest 2003s hail from the northern Médoc, although according to Mr. Lechmere, the appellation “had not fared well”. Had he driven past Château Montrose in early September, he would have noticed something unusual...greenness! Similar to Petrus, the higher proportion of clay meant that the vines’ roots could eke out moisture and did not close down or shed their leaves. The results are clearly tangible in the wine, one of the great successes of the vintage. No wonder Jean-Francois Moueix bought a little chunk of the Saint Estèphe!
We have to broach the cause célèbre, the “Archduke Franz Ferdinand” of fermented grape juice, Château Pavie 2003. It is true to say that I have never been a fan of this particular wine and approaching it with an open mind (as always), I have to say that it continues to underwhelm. I would not denigrate it with the zeal of my compatriots, but here I just feel that the wine was pushed too hard in the winery. The ‘03 was nudged into over-maturity and that is now beginning to tell. This is in stark contrast to the Pavie 2000. Served blind a few weeks ago, now that is an irresistible, sophisticated modern day legend. Few can achieve stellar performances year in and year out, and 2003 simply is not one of the estate’s triumphs."
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
i'd be curious about Parker's other 2 darlings -- Leoville Barton and Duhart.....did he taste those?
hm$
hm$
- robert goulet
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
The aroma of an '03 d'issan should be bottled and sold
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
^You're in luck.
I've only had one 03 Pomerol, the Bourgneuf. If "smectite" clay is responsible for success in Pomerol in that vintage, Bourgeuf must have some.
I've only had one 03 Pomerol, the Bourgneuf. If "smectite" clay is responsible for success in Pomerol in that vintage, Bourgeuf must have some.
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
The '03 Rollan de by the Bobbies shared in Vegas was exceptional...light years better than the '09 I just tasted
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
No note on Duhart, but he did taste the Leoville Barton. Here you go Howard:
2003 Chateau Leoville Barton 94
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Leoville Barton 2003 has a lifted bouquet of blackberry, raspberry coulis, liquorice and flecks of dark chocolate – all very defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a sumptuous entry – seamless tannins, quite plush in the mouth but perhaps missing some complexity and vigour towards the finish. It is drinking beautifully now, though the question nagging my mind is...for how long? Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau Leoville Barton 94
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Leoville Barton 2003 has a lifted bouquet of blackberry, raspberry coulis, liquorice and flecks of dark chocolate – all very defined and focused. The palate is medium-bodied with a sumptuous entry – seamless tannins, quite plush in the mouth but perhaps missing some complexity and vigour towards the finish. It is drinking beautifully now, though the question nagging my mind is...for how long? Tasted March 2013.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I was a little bit worried about 2003, but don't have too much bottles. But since Mr. P increased the rating of the 2003 Lynch Bages from 88-89 to a 95, I think the vintage is saved finally.
But I still think that the 2003 Péby Faugère is the worst product I tasted from that vintage.
Nic
But I still think that the 2003 Péby Faugère is the worst product I tasted from that vintage.
Nic
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
If you're holding St. Estephe's from 2003, you are storing liquid gold. Any farther south has no such guarantee.
From the "not Bordeaux" side of the river, Clos Fourtet is a rock star.
From the "not Bordeaux" side of the river, Clos Fourtet is a rock star.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I bought three wines from 2003:
Calon Segur
Pavie Macquin
Leoville Barton
Hopefully they will stand the test of time.
Calon Segur
Pavie Macquin
Leoville Barton
Hopefully they will stand the test of time.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I like '03 Sauternes a lot.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I'm almost afraid to ask what he thought of Leoville Poyferre and Ch St. Pierre. I have not opened any Poyferre yet but the St. Pierre's I've tried have been less than encouraging
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I am not worried about the Poyferre. I was surprised by the accelerated curve of the St. Pierre, which I absolutely loved after release and within that first year window. Last one I had was fat, flabby.Gerry M. wrote:I'm almost afraid to ask what he thought of Leoville Poyferre and Ch St. Pierre. I have not opened any Poyferre yet but the St. Pierre's I've tried have been less than encouraging
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
St. Pierre aging "better than expected:"
2003 Chateau St. Pierre 90
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The St. Pierre has a light bouquet with raspberry, wild hedgerow, briary and an exotic dried mango note to add a little intrigue. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and a soft mouthfeel that belies decent structure underneath. This is a composed, rather understated Saint Julien, not complex but it appears to be ageing better than I expected. Tasted March 2013.
Leoville Poyferre "promising. Watch out for this in 5 years:"
2003 Chateau Leoville Poyferre 94
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Poyferre ’03 offers an exuberant bouquet that is clearly more ostentatious and perhaps vigorous than the Barton – black cherries, cassis, a hint of Bovril and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe and grippy but succulent tannins. There are layers of black toasty fruit infused with white pepper, cedar and graphite. The finish is nicely composed and is becoming more “classic” in style compared to previous encounters. This is promising – watch out for this in five years time. Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau St. Pierre 90
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The St. Pierre has a light bouquet with raspberry, wild hedgerow, briary and an exotic dried mango note to add a little intrigue. The palate is medium-bodied with lithe tannins and a soft mouthfeel that belies decent structure underneath. This is a composed, rather understated Saint Julien, not complex but it appears to be ageing better than I expected. Tasted March 2013.
Leoville Poyferre "promising. Watch out for this in 5 years:"
2003 Chateau Leoville Poyferre 94
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Poyferre ’03 offers an exuberant bouquet that is clearly more ostentatious and perhaps vigorous than the Barton – black cherries, cassis, a hint of Bovril and bay leaf. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe and grippy but succulent tannins. There are layers of black toasty fruit infused with white pepper, cedar and graphite. The finish is nicely composed and is becoming more “classic” in style compared to previous encounters. This is promising – watch out for this in five years time. Tasted March 2013.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Thanks, David.
Did NM taste the 2003 Pontet-Canet, Calon Segur, Pichon Lalande and Sociando-Mallet?
Did NM taste the 2003 Pontet-Canet, Calon Segur, Pichon Lalande and Sociando-Mallet?
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I have the pontet (which is yet to impress) las cases, lascombes and pichon baron....dying for more d'issan
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Funny about the '03 St. Pierre. I was back after my buying hiatus following life events (new child, company buy-in, wife quitting work), and the 2003 vintage futures were rolling out. I was buying selectively, but was able to try a sample of the St. Pierre, and thought it was so delicious, so seductively soft and layered. I bought more of it than anything else from that vintage. And it drank so well during its infancy. I think I killed 6 bottles within a year of release. I loved it. The bottle I cracked last year gave me pause. It was heavy, tired.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
For Blanquito: I didn't see anything about Sociando, but;
2003 Chateau Pontet Canet 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pontet-Canet 2003
has a very pure, quite alluring bouquet with blackberry and a touch of
blueberry, mint and cedar. It is quite refined compared to recent vintage with
very good focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a very supple, harmonious
entry. This Pontet Canet is silky smooth and very composed, though it is
missing a little complexity and ambition on the finish. But otherwise this is a
lovely Pauillac that is drinking beautifully now. Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau Pichon Lalande 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pichon Lalande
2003 is a notorious wine that has so often displays off-putting vegetal notes.
This is a much better bottle. It has a smudged bouquet of red berries, cassis,
blackcurrant pastilles and a touch of violet. The merlot is very dominant here,
rendering it almost like a Saint Emilion wine. The palate is medium-bodied with
a fleshy texture, well-judged acidity and natural composure. It is a forward
Pichon Lalande, but it is very refined and harmonious with a sensual caressing
finish. Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau Calon Segur 86
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. I have never warmed
to the late Mdm. Gasqueton’s ’03. To be honest, I find too much brettanomyces
on the Calon Segur – horsey aromas, as if you were cleaning out the stables!
The palate is soft and plush on the entry but unusually for Calon Segur that is
little backbone or structure and the finish is very predictable and fades
without saying much. Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau Pontet Canet 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pontet-Canet 2003
has a very pure, quite alluring bouquet with blackberry and a touch of
blueberry, mint and cedar. It is quite refined compared to recent vintage with
very good focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a very supple, harmonious
entry. This Pontet Canet is silky smooth and very composed, though it is
missing a little complexity and ambition on the finish. But otherwise this is a
lovely Pauillac that is drinking beautifully now. Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau Pichon Lalande 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pichon Lalande
2003 is a notorious wine that has so often displays off-putting vegetal notes.
This is a much better bottle. It has a smudged bouquet of red berries, cassis,
blackcurrant pastilles and a touch of violet. The merlot is very dominant here,
rendering it almost like a Saint Emilion wine. The palate is medium-bodied with
a fleshy texture, well-judged acidity and natural composure. It is a forward
Pichon Lalande, but it is very refined and harmonious with a sensual caressing
finish. Tasted March 2013.
2003 Chateau Calon Segur 86
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. I have never warmed
to the late Mdm. Gasqueton’s ’03. To be honest, I find too much brettanomyces
on the Calon Segur – horsey aromas, as if you were cleaning out the stables!
The palate is soft and plush on the entry but unusually for Calon Segur that is
little backbone or structure and the finish is very predictable and fades
without saying much. Tasted March 2013.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Patrick, I loved the '03 Pontet Canet shortly after release, but a bottle in 2010 was hot and disjointed. Neal's take: he likes it but is not bowled over.
2003 Chateau Pontet Canet 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pontet-Canet 2003 has a very pure, quite alluring bouquet with blackberry and a touch of blueberry, mint and cedar. It is quite refined compared to recent vintage with very good focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a very supple, harmonious entry. This Pontet Canet is silky smooth and very composed, though it is missing a little complexity and ambition on the finish. But otherwise this is a lovely Pauillac that is drinking beautifully now. Tasted March 2013.
He found Calon Segur Bretty and soft:
2003 Chateau Calon Segur 86
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. I have never warmed to the late Mdm. Gasqueton’s ’03. To be honest, I find too much brettanomyces on the Calon Segur – horsey aromas, as if you were cleaning out the stables! The palate is soft and plush on the entry but unusually for Calon Segur that is little backbone or structure and the finish is very predictable and fades without saying much. Tasted March 2013.
Pichon Lalande is "notorious" for veggies but this bottle is better, but in a St. Emilion sort of way???
2003 Chateau Pichon Lalande 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pichon Lalande 2003 is a notorious wine that has so often displays off-putting vegetal notes. This is a much better bottle. It has a smudged bouquet of red berries, cassis, blackcurrant pastilles and a touch of violet. The merlot is very dominant here, rendering it almost like a Saint Emilion wine. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy texture, well-judged acidity and natural composure. It is a forward Pichon Lalande, but it is very refined and harmonious with a sensual caressing finish. Tasted March 2013.
No note on the '03 Sociando in this report.
2003 Chateau Pontet Canet 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pontet-Canet 2003 has a very pure, quite alluring bouquet with blackberry and a touch of blueberry, mint and cedar. It is quite refined compared to recent vintage with very good focus. The palate is medium-bodied with a very supple, harmonious entry. This Pontet Canet is silky smooth and very composed, though it is missing a little complexity and ambition on the finish. But otherwise this is a lovely Pauillac that is drinking beautifully now. Tasted March 2013.
He found Calon Segur Bretty and soft:
2003 Chateau Calon Segur 86
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. I have never warmed to the late Mdm. Gasqueton’s ’03. To be honest, I find too much brettanomyces on the Calon Segur – horsey aromas, as if you were cleaning out the stables! The palate is soft and plush on the entry but unusually for Calon Segur that is little backbone or structure and the finish is very predictable and fades without saying much. Tasted March 2013.
Pichon Lalande is "notorious" for veggies but this bottle is better, but in a St. Emilion sort of way???
2003 Chateau Pichon Lalande 92
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. The Pichon Lalande 2003 is a notorious wine that has so often displays off-putting vegetal notes. This is a much better bottle. It has a smudged bouquet of red berries, cassis, blackcurrant pastilles and a touch of violet. The merlot is very dominant here, rendering it almost like a Saint Emilion wine. The palate is medium-bodied with a fleshy texture, well-judged acidity and natural composure. It is a forward Pichon Lalande, but it is very refined and harmonious with a sensual caressing finish. Tasted March 2013.
No note on the '03 Sociando in this report.
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
I'm disappointed the PC lacks ambition. It's had all of the advantages of a privileged upbringing.
- AlohaArtakaHoundsong
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Ah yes, Pichon Lalande (disclaimer: never had one) the left bank Figeac. Maybe Rolland needs to be called in to sweep out those notorious vegetal notes. Then again maybe he did a cameo in 03 if it tastes like a St. Emilion.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Maybe a bad bottle ? Who knows. The reviews are all other the place on this one. For example:DavidG wrote:.......
He found Calon Segur Bretty and soft:
2003 Chateau Calon Segur 86
Tasted at Bordeaux Index’s “10-Year On” tasting in London. I have never warmed to the late Mdm. Gasqueton’s ’03. To be honest, I find too much brettanomyces on the Calon Segur – horsey aromas, as if you were cleaning out the stables! The palate is soft and plush on the entry but unusually for Calon Segur that is little backbone or structure and the finish is very predictable and fades without saying much. Tasted March 2013.
8/2/2011 - Jeff Leve wrote: 93 PointsAnother fabulous 2003 St. Estephe Bordeaux wine. From an assemblage of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon and 40% Merlot, the wine popped with fresh cassis, spice, earth, black raspberry and tobacco scents. Rich and opulent in texture, this felt like a Pomerol. This classy Bordeaux wine is still young. Give it at least another decade.
I'll have to try one and decide for myself.
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
A Calon Segur that feels like a Pomerol. Hmmm.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
A Calon Segur that feels like a Pomerol. Really?! Why can't St Estephe feel like St Estephe and Pomerol feel like Pomerol? I was thinking of picking up a bottle. Maybe not now.
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
One man's "little backbone or structure" is another's "rich and opulent in texture." This is the thing about tasting notes. Whether they're from established tasters or CT unknowns, there is almost never convergence. I don't know how many times I've seen TNs of three pros on the same wine in the same time frame, one says it's for the short term, one says for the mid term, and one says cellar for 7-10 years and drink in the following 20.
Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
It's a wine for laying down and then avoiding altogether.
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
. It's a wine for laying down and then avoiding altogether.
Lmao
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Re: Neal Martin 2003 Retrospective on eRobert Parker
Not '04!!!!!!!. the problem with the 2003 Bordeaux at ten years of age is a prosaic one...
…they have become boring ."
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