Chateau Cantemerle dinner

[Comte Flaneur]

Our London tasting group held a Cantemerle dinner last night with three flights of this fifth growth.

The first flight was the most fun and the highlight for me. My expectations were high for the 1989 but not for the 1979 (91) and 1983 (91), which turned out to be a revelation. The 1979 needed drinking, but had a highly alluring truffly note, which made it special in my book. The 1983 was superb too. A fine example of mature claret with a nod to the old school, but hardly thin, and with plenty of life left in it, unlike many 1983s which need drinking. The 1989 (96) however was the star of the flight, and was characterised by a supreme elegance and lightness on its feet that you might get in Lafite or Margaux. It romped home with the wine of the night accolade, by a country mile.

On to the next flight and the 1996 (93) seemed to have an abundance of vanilla oak, which was starkly obvious after tasting the golden oldies. But underneath that cloak is a very fine wine. It will easily last a couple of decades to allow some of that attack to blow off. The 2000 (94) did not have the same oakiness and had a bit more power and density on the mid, not that the 1996 was lacking. I slightly preferred it on the night. Both are terrific. The 2002 (90) is a very satisfying claret. Again with a nod to the old school. I would be more than happy to own this, but a bit more pedestrian and prosaic than its flight mates.

The last flight wines were juveniles. The pick was the 2005 (93 now possibly higher later), which unlike say Beychevelle is not even close to its drinking window. I would say give it another decade. The 2009 (91) and 2010 (92) were babies, the former easier to drink than the latter but both needing ten probably 15 years. If you had any if these in your cellar you need to be patient but will be amply rewarded in time. All three have what it takes and I am sure the scores will creep up.

We voted on the reds and the result was:

1989 - 23 points
1996 - 8
2000 - 7
2005 - 7
1979 - 2
Everything else - like the United Kingdom in the Eurovision Song Contest

So the eight Brits around the table did not 'get' the 2010. We all agreed it is potentially an outstanding wine, but that it needs so much time. A couple described it as less obviously Bordeaux-like than even the 2009 and a wine which could be mistaken for a Napa. My take was that all three wines in the third flight were ridiculously young but all of them could one day vye for the 'greatest ever.' The 2010 was the most painfully awkward of the three, which in itself is reassuring.

Thus I don't think the 2010 marks a shift to the 'dark side', but others had their suspicions. However some would say that the 1953 and 1961 would never be surpassed. Right now the 1989 reigns supreme. I am just kicking myself I did not pull the trigger on this on release.

This estates punches well above its weight. It is easily third growth quality, knocking on the second growth door.

[JimHow]

Thank you for the report Ian.

But, by virtue of the authority vested in me by the universitatus committeeatum e pluribus unum I hereby decree, in my capacity as the beloved and kind dictator of Bordeaux Wine Enthusiasts that nobody herein, heretofore, henceforth and whereas, shall hereby uncork a 2010 Cantemerle in any sort of multi wine setting, vertical, horizontal, or otherwise, and shall from here forward only consume said 2010 Cantemerle by itself, only with food, over the course of a minimum of three hours of dining, and only after said bottle of 2010 Cantemerle has been decanted for no less than three hours prior to consumption of said wine, the whoopie pie exception applicable, of course, in all cases.

So it is written. So it shall be done.

BD

[stefan]

Gosh, I loved the 1989 Cantemerle, but I finished mine more than ten years ago. Sounds like I should have held onto some.

[Blanquito]

You didn't get any of the 89 in DC, Bill? It was in excellent, truly outstanding form that night, right in its sweetspot. I've been looking for more at auction.

[stefan]

It was gone, Patrick, when I finally circled. I have not seen it at auctions for many years.

[jal]

Ok guys, if you want to pay the price $109 there are 3 bottles of the 1989 available at Crush wines in NYC.
Provenance is fine, I bought two bottles there in 2014 (for about $20 less) and they were excellent.

[Blanquito]

Great notes Ian. Jacques and I were at big Cantemerle and La Lagune verticals two years ago at Dale's, and I came away super impressed by Cantemerle. I liked this 5th Growth before this tasting, but that night made me realize I hadn't given it its due. Sounds like overall you guys were equally impressed.

The 79, 82, 83, 89, and 96 were all just stellar wines with the 89 taking WOTN honors. The only curve balls were the 2000, which again showed oddly to my taste, and the 09/10 duo which really stuck out as (possibly) a change of style. We still liked the 09 and 10, at least my end of the table did, but it was clear they need lots of time and (possibly) the levels of extraction and richness were higher (though far from excessive).

[Nicklasss]

Thanks Ian for the report. I like Cantemerle since a long time, and even in vintages like 1995, 2006 or 2003, like the real "fine Bordeaux claret" character of these wines.

Of course, 1989 is glorious, as 1996, 2000, and someday 2005, 2009 and 2010.

To be fair, it is probably the only 2015 I will buy en primeur, as the price stayed like me, fair. I appreciate that "feet stay on the earth" character of pricing and wine. Of course, i even like more your report as with many people, you would bring a bottle of Cantemerle to a wine tasting, and it could be ignored easily if some heavy $$$ bottle were there at the same time, but your notes prove that would be an error.

Nic

[NoahR]

Have one bottle of '89 Cantemerle, purchased from WineBid. Provenance could be anything but condition is good. How long should I decant it?

[Comte Flaneur]

I would say standing it up for a while is more important. If you decant it, I would say for 30-60 minutes would be enough. My guess is that this wine will drink beautifully for another decade, so there is no urgency. But I refer back to the other thread where opinions differ widely on when to drink wines.

[AKR]

And there is a lot of variability in corks, storage, heat etc.

The dispersion in experiences one can have from a case they have held from release always surprises me.