Italy dining recs?

[JCNorthway]

I mentioned some weeks back that Paula and I would miss the upcoming DC convention because we would be in Italy. We are going there for two months, staying in an apartment in the village of Citta di Castello in Umbria. I know there are some world travelers on this site, so I'm curious if folks have dining recommendations for any places in Umbria as well as Tuscany (since we will be close). And I know that we will be in Florence during our stay, so recs for Florence would especially be appreciated. We also will be in Rome for a few days near the end of our stay, so suggestions for there would also be appreciated.

Suggestions do not need to be accompanied by a Michelin star(s). We know from our own experiences in Italy that some of the best food can come from some of the small and out of the way places. Any and all recommendations will be appreciated.

And we will miss you all in DC in October.

Jon

[stefan]

Have a great time, Jon! For us it has been too long since we have been in Italy.

[SF Ed]

I have spent a lot of time in Umbria and have a lot of recs, although most aren't as far north in Umbria as Citta in Castello.

The most important one as a BWE person is that when you go to Spello (which is a famous tourist village in Umbria), you must go to Enoteca Properzio - https://www.enotecaproperzio.com/. They have a great and reasonably well-priced selection of top tier wine and are super nice and friendly. When I stay in Spello we typically go there first, buy a bunch of wine, then start sourcing ingredients for cooking.

We don't do a lot of restaurant dining when we are in Umbria as mostly I just cook myself (I bring my own knives, truffle shaver, etc.). One place I had a very good meal but more importantly a classic "eat outside on a beautiful piazza" experience is Locanda del Theatro on the central piazza in Montefalco. Very good food, very helpful somm (must like Sagrentino) and great experience having lunch outside on the piazza.

You will be there in white truffle season, which is spectacular. If you are a truffle person, I highly recommend finding a trusted truffle negociant. I have one in Umbria more to the south in Campello di Clitunno - Fortunati - https://fortunati.com/en/, but you should be able to find one in/near Citta in Castello.

Other places not to miss in Umbria include Bevagna and Assisi. Go to Assisi early - it is tourist central. But the basilica is worth it. In Assisi I've enjoyed dining at Trattoria Pallotta - trattoriapallotta.it.

You won't be far from Gubbio, which is beautiful, as well as Le Marche, the forgotten area just north of Umbria.

I have loads of Florence and Rome tips too, but lots of folks have those. Reach out directly if you want more.

SF Ed

[SF Ed]

For Florence, a couple of favorites are:

Trattoria Cammillo - very old fashioned place near the river. Reservations a must (that can only be made by phone or in person). Great for lunch.
Osteria dell'Enoteca - excellent bistecca and very good wine service. You order food, then go look at the wine cellar to pick your wine. Important to have a big appetite here. https://www.osteriadellenoteca.com/
Formaggioteca - a super nice cheese and wine bar near the river. Excellent place to stop for a glass of well-selected wines and well-selected cheese from Italy and France. https://en.formaggiotecaterroir.it/
Mercato Centrale - very famous, what Eataly wants to be. Very easy to graze and eat and drink here. https://www.mercatocentrale.com/florence/

In Rome, which I know a lot less well:

Matricianella - very simple excellent Roman food. Excellent wine list if you like Barolo and Barbaresco. https://www.matricianella.it/en.aspx
Roscioli - excellent trattoria food with a great wine list. The cheeses and salumi are the speciality here. Super popular and super touristy. Book ahead. https://www.salumeriaroscioli.com/en/home-english/

SF Ed

[JimHow]

Man you guys have got it down.
I think I'm going to uncork a nice Felsina chianti tonight in you and Paula's honor, Jon.

Nicola, what was that Rome restaurant you recommended to me last summer, I really enjoyed it.

[Nicklasss]

It was Da Francesco in Roma. Excellent roman food ( the beef tartare with truffles and cheese, and the cacio pepe pasta, are delicious).

Long wine listing at every prices. Saten Franciacorta were great.

Wish you and Paula a great trip. But we’ll miss you in DC, it has been too long.

[JCNorthway]

Thanks for the recommendations, guys.

[Nicklasss]

John, if you go to the Vatican, i encourage you to do a stop at Enoteca Costantini. Great wine selection at acceptable prices. Lot of great italian wines (Emidio Pepe, Castello di Verduno Barolo), Champagne and even some Bordeaux and Bourgogne!

[DavidG]

I’ll second the recommendation for Enoteca Costantini. Been decades since I’ve been there. They had some killer and hard to find sweet wines like an Avignonisi Vin Santo and Dal Forno Romano Recioto.