1998 right banks

[Comte Flaneur]

Six of us got together last night to drink some 1998 right bank Bordeaux, at La Trompette in West London, including my mystery guest from across the pond. We had three flights of three, which included three St-Emilions, five Pomerols and one outsider, a Pessac Leognan.

But first a splendid bottle of mature rose Champagne:

Laurent Perrier Grand Siecle Alexandra 1998

Bright burnished copper-salmon, no bubbles left. Very fine, vinous - gourmand even - with luxurious rich red berries, freshness, precision, intensity and complexity with a fine finish...95 pts

Flight one

La Conseillante

Quite reticent with earthy tertiary notes; red-fruited, but quite clenched, tannic and acidic; it opened up slowly and grudgingly, with earthy soil notes. Interesting enough on its own but lacking charm, not up to the standard of a bottle a few years ago and outclassed in this company…91 pts – the fact that this bottle just flew over the Atlantic may have had something to do with its sub-par performance

L’Evangile

Much more exuberant with ripe red fruits and with lashings of new oak and quite well resolved. More joyous than La Conseillante, but again outclassed by what was to follow and the oak sticks out a little too much. Superficially attractive but unconvincing…92 pts

Figeac

While this was the best wine in the flight I thought that this too was a little below par, because I know how outstanding this wine can be. It lacked the complexity, focus and precision of good bottles of this. Again it might have been affected by its transatlantic sojourn, but it still had the signature cool cabernet fruit with soil and eucalyptus notes...93 pts

Flight two

Cheval Blanc

In previous encounters over the last decade this wine has been somewhat high-toned, tannic and not ready to drink. Last night’s bottle was just glorious, with such precision and a cashmere texture and mouthfeel; it was really layered, long and regal with tobacco and earthy notes. The high-toned nervosity has transformed into a thrilling raciness. A veritable race horse. Like a young version of the 1985 but perhaps even more precision…98 pts

Haut Brion

A wine which has evolved glacially, it is finally losing some of its hard edge, but it is rocky, minerally and still quite tannic and structured, but quite riveting at the same time, with trade mark tobacco and scorched earth notes. A good Haut Brion which is still on the upslope, but it really played second fiddle to its flight mates, lacking their precision, harmony and sheer elegance…95 pts

Ausone

The last time we did a 1998 claret dinner at Chez Bruce in 2023 for the 25th anniversary of the vintage, we included left banks, but this right bank was my wotn, while the group’s was Haut Brion. If anything last night’s bottle was even better than the one two-and-a-half years ago. The 1998 Ausone is in a glorious place with the mineral complexity of the limestone terroir shining through, with red berries and tobacco notes, it’s all about finesse, elegance, seamlessness and effortless class…98 pts

We all agreed that the second flight was a big step up from the first flight...could the third flight match it, or even better it?

Flight three

L’Eglise Clinet

This was initially going to be on the bench. It was the revelation of the night. It was just wonderful, and pretty much perfect in every way. It had kaleidoscopic complexity with among other things dark fruits enhanced by earthy truffly and gamey notes, oriental spices with a silky texture and superb length on the palate…98 pts

Trotanoy

Still a ‘formidable’ towering wine, with ‘imposing’ stature and density with ‘igneous’ rocky minerality and big structure and tannins. Probably the most backward wine of the night, it nevertheless can be drunk with enormous pleasure, but probably will be even better in a decade from now…97 pts

Le Pin

This wine costs nearly as much as all the other wines of the table put together, and was a different creature to the others. It is rich, ripe and exotic, with quite a bit of oak influence, which unlike the L’Evangile, is not overbearing. There is something rather sexy and seductive about this as it weaves its magical charms with myriad herbal and spicey notes. It is light on its feet and has a certain weightlessness with coal dust notes which reminded me of my favourite 1990 Jasmin Cote Rotie. But the table agreed is was perhaps the most ‘Burgundian’ wine last night. A thrill to behold and drink…97 pts

Just by adding up the points flight three (292 points) pipped flight two (291 points) with flight one a distant third (276 pts). Flight three was a photo finish, which the magnificent L’Eglise Clinet just won.

But the group’s wine of the night was Cheval Blanc (26 votes out of a possible 30), followed by L’Eglise Clinet (22), then Ausone, Le Pin and Trotanoy.

[stefan]

When 1998 Conseillante is the worst wine in a tasting you know that you have drunk well!

[JimHow]

I have called the 1998 Bordeaux Right Bank vintage, along with the 2005 Burgundy vintage, perhaps the two greatest vintages ever from any wine region in the world. I wonder if that holds true now as we approach the 30 year mark.

[s*d*r]

Thanks to Ian for the great report. I feel like finally dipping into the vintage since I like 'em mature or close before I spill my coin. I haven't tried any of these yet except for the Figeac a few years ago which was indeed outstanding.

[DavidG]

Sounds like most of those 98 right bankers lived up to their reputation. Nice report on a bunch of excellent wines. We did a 98 right bank theme for one of the BWE conventions years ago. Lots of good wines.

[JCNorthway]

Nice tasting, Ian. Most of those wines seemed to justify their reputations. I have dipped into my 1998 Right Banks the last 2-3 years with good results. I'm looking forward to enjoying them for another 10-20 years.

[barsacpinci]

We had ‘98 Angelus last Christmas that was lovely I only have two right bank wines left - Pavie and Troplong

[Nicklasss]

Comte Flaneur, very nice review of great wines from 1998. Incredible quality vintage on the Right Bank.

I agree with stefan than when Conseillante end last, what a tasting! Cheval Blanc looks great! Happy to read Église-Clinet was top wine too, it nature really slowly. Even the rare an unusual Le Pin was there!

Thank you reporting.

P.S. Barsacpinci, i had the Troplong in the past and it is the only 1998 that did not made it for me. Looking forward your comments about it someday.