TN: 1996 Pichon Lalande

[JCNorthway]

I managed to buy several bottles of this wine at inflated prices after all the accolades it received. Tonight I opened a bottle for the first time since 2020.
This was a very stubborn bottle. My normal screwpull cork remover managed to remove the top half of the cork (ugh). So I pulled out my long screw manual screwpull to extricate the remains. It managed to pull up crumbs only (ugh 2). My last resort was my Durand; it saved the day by removing the remaining portion of the cork. Of course there were now cork crumbs in the wine, so I had to filter it through a funnel and paper towel.

So much for the prep. The wine was a pleasure; it was decanted for a little over two hours which I think paid major dividends. When first opened, it seemed pretty tight and did not have much aroma. By the time it was served, it was quite aromatic, and had softened considerably. Having said that, it is by no means nearing the end of its life. At two hours, it was still somewhat tight and tannic, though it softened in the next two hours while we drank it. While I thought the wine was really good, I'm not sure it lived up to its reputation tonight. Based on my last glass, perhaps it is still not showing it's best. I have 3-4 more bottles which I intend to use in coming years to find its sweet spot.

[Comte Flaneur]

Interesting note Jon

Sorry about your disappointing experience with the cork. I have been there too. As a rule I don’t risk using a conventional corkscrew for any wine over 25 years old and certainly not for any bottle from the 20th century. We took four 1998s to our recent right bank dinner all of which were opened with a Durand. Without a Durand the corks on at least two of them would have crumbled.

Your note on this wine is consistent with what I have heard from elsewhere - that it seems to be going through a protracted hard to coax phase - which I find very odd because it seemed to be more open for business 15 years ago. But I have had limited recent experience with this wine myself - iirc the last time I tried it was in late 2021 when it was very tight and unyielding and it didn’t feature in our recent 30 year anniversary 1996 horizontal

[stefan]

i now use a Durand on all wines that are 15+ years old. Sure, it is unnecessary for most wines that are 15-20 years old, but the pain of dealing with a broken cork is less than the pain of using the Durand instead of a simpler devise 20 times.

[JCNorthway]

Noting what two master BWEers are saying about the use of their Durands, I think I will start using mine more regularly.

[JimHow]

Jon, did we have this wine at that epic Pichon Lalande dinner in Chicago years ago?
I don't think I have had it in quite a while but I recall loving it in its youth.
I think I am going to buy more 1981 Pichon Lalande.

[JCNorthway]

I honestly don't recall that dinner, Jim. Too many dinners with too many wines . . .

[JimHow]

I’m pretty sure you were there, it was organized by Rick Julien in Chicago, a Pichon Lalande vertical.

[JCNorthway]

OK, that is causing a few tired neurons to fire. I think I was there, because I think I got to all of the tastings that Rick organized back in the day.

Hope you are enjoying Paris. Paula says to enjoy "flanerie" as a "flaneur."

[stefan]

It looks like the 1996 left bank wines have finally mostly reached their "plateau of maturity". Last night we drank 1996 La Lagune and Cos d'Estournel. I would not say that the Cos has peaked, but it is now mature and very pleasant to drink as the tannins are resolved. The '96 La Lagune has passed its apex IMO, but is still a wonderful drink. I actually preferred it to the Cos.