Baron von Twickel Wine Estate "Gróf Zichy" Cabernet Franc 2003; 14% abv on the bottle; 13,14% abv on the producer's web-site; 5,6g/l acidity; 2,4g/l RS; 21,60€. Since the label has Barrique on it and since the vintage is 2003, I hadn't bought this, though I am a huge fan of the grape. Now that it has been available in the special selection of our alcohol monopoly for months, I was told that I really must try it by someone who knows my preferences, and so I did. I am sorry I didn't purchase it earlier.

Though from an unnaturally warm year, it is obviously Cabernet Franc from the first sniff. It may have darker fruit tones than the Platonic ideal of the grape, but it also has the lovely herbaceous, lifted, refreshing aromas that I want to find in this variety. The Barrique ageing is beginning to be very well integrated as I find its presence only when I look for it: a spicy aroma added to the sexy fruit that reminded some of us of Cheval Blanc! The fruit is still quite primary (but was still a pleasure to sniff), so I would like to see some further development.
It is almost voluptuously fruity and does, sadly, show a bit of heat on the finish (whatever the actual abv) - but those are the only indications of an abnormally hot year. The acidity is pleasantly mouthwatering and counters the voluptuous fruit making the whole very refreshing though I am not usually an admirer of primary fruit. The tannins are soft but noticeable and they also harness the fruit which, I sometimes feel, is about to break free and gallop away. The trial of whether the structure or the fruit prevails makes for an exciting drink. Nice wine.