I was intrigued enough to do some further research into this Chateau, including on the period that my 1959 bottle is from.
This was a chateau that had a high reputation in the Eighteenth Century and was seen as one of the Bordeaux pioneers from that time. Indeed, in the late Eighteenth Century Thomas Jefferson was very taken with Dufort as it was then known, so much so, that in his classification of Bordeaux wines in 1787 he ranked it fifth behind Margaux, Latour Haut Brion and Lafite.
It retained that status into the Nineteenth Century and was ranked seventh amongst the second growths in the 1855 classification, below Leoville Barton and above Gruaud Larose. Its reputation for producing a quality wine, typical of the perfumed style from the Margaux commune, continued throughout that century. Things changed in the early Twentieth Century following a succession of changes in ownership. The result of that is often a lack of investment and a decline in quality. And that appears to have been the case here.
In 1937 Durfort Vivens was purchased by a consortium led by the Ginestet and Lurton families who also then owned Chateau Margaux. In the period from 1937-61 no wine was made at Durfort Vivens and the vinification facilities were allowed to be run down. Instead the grapes from the chateaux vineyard, with a high percentage of Cabernet, were taken to Chateaux Margaux and appear to have been used there according to a Lurton estate fact sheet.
Initial research suggested that no wine under the Durfort Vivens labels was produced in the period from 37-61. There are no notes from this time, for example, by leading wine writers like Edmund Penning Rowsell or Michael Broadbent. However a few bottles from the 1950s do exist in the auction record and they bear the label mine has without the Vivens part of the name which had been added in 1824.
There appear to be a number of reasons for continuing to bottle under the Durfort label, including protecting the legal status of the estate, maintaining the brand, and honouring existing contracts with negociants. It seems that this happened especially in high yielding vintages where a surplus allowed for a chateau bottling. Even so bottles from that era under the Durfort label appear to be quite rare. As a consequence it largely fell off people’s radar during that time and its reputation went into decline with only a few older bottles from before 1937 there to maintain it.
That all changed in 1961 when Lucien Lurton bought the vineyards and cellars outright from the Ginestet family (though not the Chateau itself which they retained). He was committed to restoring the wines of this second growth estate. As there was now nowhere on the estate for vinification of the grapes that had to be done at Brane Cantenac, also owned by the Lurtons. Indeed that remained the case until 1995 when new facilities were opened underneath some of the old buildings on the estate.
Durfort reestablised itself during this time but its reputation was for a wine that was no longer regarded as it had been before. It was often seen, as time went by into the 1980s and the modern era of new investment and changing, riper styles, as rather old fashioned. Critics could be scathing, not least Robert Parker, who voiced his criticisms across the different editions of his highly influential Bordeaux book. Even in the best vintages it would typically only garner scores from him in the mid-80s.
My own limited experience of wines from that time was somewhat different. I really enjoyed both the 1982 and 1990 back in the late 90s, so much so, that I laid down cases of the 2000 and 2002 based on that experience. Time has been a bit more kind to Durfort. Most of the good vintages from the late Twentieth Century get good average scores in Cellartracker and that has followed into the Twenty-first Century even if they don’t achieve super-second ratings. I’ve really enjoyed the 2000, 2002, 2004 and 2005 even if the critics have been more critical in their notes and scores.
I’ve often wondered about this discrepancy. The high percentage of Cabernet in the Durfort cepage mean that it can show a bit of a blackcurrant leaf green note early on it its life, something that was very out of fashion in the nineties and noughties. With time, I would say about 20 years, Durfort matures into a classic, nuanced Bordeaux. It isn’t a cassis driven blockbuster that many high percentage Cabernet from Bordeaux can be. I often find blackcurrant leaf, tobacco, currants, sandalwood and violets. Stylistically I think of Lafite, Calon Segur, Duhart Milon and Durfort Vivens, albeit from different parts of the region showing a similar flavour profile. These are complex and subtle rather than blockbuster wines that benefit from plenty of time in the cellar and at table. Durfort, in my opinion, needs a good 2-3 hours in the decanter to fill out and develop its complexity. It is then that Durfort shows best. It isn’t a pop and pour wine.
But things have started to change and quite dramatically. The estate took the decision to go down the biodynamic route in 2009 and were producing a biodynamic wine in 2013 and received certification for that from 2016. More recent wines have much lower yields than previously, the grapes are riper and most of the vinification now happens in large ceramic amphorae. Critics scores have started to soar since about 2018. The time to buy Durfort is now as prices are still well below similar scoring second growths.
I’ve yet to try these recent vintages but they are on my radar. But here are some of my notes on some of the earlier ones.
- 2004 Château Durfort-Vivens - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (24/05/2025)
I am smiling. I had, and enjoyed, the 82 and 90 of this chateau back in the day but not much else for 20 years. Recently I’ve had the 00, 02, 05 and now the 04. All are superb old style Bordeaux. This 04 comes in at 12.5%. Slightly leafy nose, blackcurrant leaf rather than full on cassis. But there are also currants, dried currants. That is an aroma I have always associated with Lafite and this has it in spades. A leanish wine but still decent fruit. There is more dried fruit in the flavour, more of these currants. Expressive red fruits, tobacco leaf, black tea, very savoury. This is fast becoming one of my favourite Chateau. Slight dilution on the finish. Superb wine for a modest vintage (92 pts.) - 2005 Château Durfort-Vivens - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (09/05/2025)
If you want to taste what Bordeaux from the 60s and 70s tasted like at 20 years old this is it. I loved this wine. Cool, leafy nose, cassis, currant, tobacco leaf. Fine red fruited wine. This is what claret is all about, understated charm with subtle complexity and nuance. Goes against the grain of its era and all the better for it. If I didn’t already own some I’d be buying this today (93 pts.) - 2000 Château Durfort-Vivens - France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux (27/12/2024)
First from a case recently taken out of store. I’ve been drinking a case of the 2002 of this for a couple of years but this is a real step up in quality over that. Nose has fresh blackberries, dried currants, cassis and a hint of pine, lovely. It still tastes young but resolved with a core of blackcurrant and a bit more dried currants in the background. Early maturity, nice freshness and light and ripe tannins. Maybe I got lucky with this bottle but I thought it way better than most of the reviews. This is a very good start. (92 pts.)
