The article, in English, translated (badly) by Google Language Tools. "Roasted Ribs" is Cote Rotie, and the stuff about Turkey is la Turque.
Notice that the author's assertion of François's generosity is counterbalanced by a letter making the usual point that in his dinners he is charging very high prices for people to drink wines of debatable value, the cynical view.
Le Villaret in front of banner of the Republic Square, has a reputation: a terrible wine list. The man who sits opposite me, too. His name is François Audouze. Its success in the mass distribution has enabled him to indulge in the passion of old vintages. Good boy, this is not the kind to oneself with old Yquem, he prefers to share his happiness. Very regularly organizes dinners (
http://www.wine-dinners.com) in which elderly admirable (I speak of his bottles) are starting their final dance of the bones.
When it speaks, Francis tear to the eye. It is an emotional. Watch it eat and drink is like a fire is mesmerizing. Let's look at the rather choose a wine ... That's the index that is walking, his eyes scan as a mad scientist when, boom, it stops on a line. This will be a roasted side, Turkey Guigal, vintage 1999. François How? 338 euros. In these cases, we should not do or gloups or call the ambulance is, as in all things, secure the perimeter. After some negotiations, the pear is sliced into three. It passes. A great wine is wonderful. It has nothing to do with wine buddies that you drink as you bring a clarion call. No, they are small gods wrapped in dark glass. They have stories.
Turkey? Because just when on the slopes of the ribs roasted snow were to fall, then when founded, only one parcel was snowy. The shape like a boot, which is called Turkey at the time. We discover a continent that we are hiding in coefficients absurd. This hurts Francis. View a high brion 89 proposed 6500 € on the table for a three-star revolt. How to disagree! He asked that restaurants remove the foot and stop these aerobatics, for him, he must be offered at 600 euros. Point.
And our Turkish? It like a roaring aircraft. The dish has that bitter kind, but when I'm typing in the mound of chewy, François addresses me crazy. Wine first. It moves like a king in his motorcade. The meat will undergo the same fate: it pushes the shallots, place to listen to the product docile. How is it? Not matured enough, François installment. The wine seems to prove him right. Throne he now on the table. Cheese, desserts? pfuit, we are full vespers, kneeling, obedient to our tour. François empty bottle, drinking its reliefs as the Holy Sacrament. It is (sometimes) as well.
Le Villaret, 13, rue Ternaux, 75011 Paris (01.43.57.89.76). Map
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Hum.
François Audouze certainly has an encyclopedic knowledge of old vintages, and an impressive wine cellar, no one discusses.
But describe him as someone who "share his happiness" is a little biased ... If only taking into account the price of this "sharing" means amounts paid by participants in the Wine-Dinners are astronomical. Some are amateurs, real sharer they invite friends and have great bottles.
But finally, you tell me, what is the problem if some are willing to pay such a price? I taxera jealousy, pettiness or meanness.
The main problem is that many of the wines served at these tastings are interesting historically, but clinically dead for several years and no longer much of what is expected of a true wine. What Mr. Audouze replied by saying that the old wines are a world apart, that only he can almost understand, and that many tasters who spend the next (which ultimately raises the question of why it attempts to "share" its old wine if it is the only one to understand).
This, I think, the limit for the year. He is a passionate collector and a passionate storyteller as illustrated by the word of François Simon charmed by the character. But, as with many collections, few of the common people are really receptive.
(Let me be clear, this is not an ad hominem criticism but a reflection on the futility of the exercise proposed "Wine-Tasting Antiques has almost nothing to offer, but despite interesting and in addition they were paid very expensive).
Best regards,
Francis.