(NYT) Dining: A Study in the Subtleties of Northern Rhône Te
Posted: Sat Sep 12, 2020 10:55 pm
Dining: A Study in the Subtleties of Northern Rhône Terroirs
2020-09-03 16:28:25.420 GMT
By Eric Asimov
(New York Times) -- This month we’re going to try something a little
different.
Ordinarily, I suggest three bottles of the same type of wine. Instead, I want
to compare three wines that are closely related but come from different
appellations within a larger region, the Northern Rhône Valley of France.
Each is made with the syrah grape. But what if anything distinguishes one from
the others? That’s what we are going to examine.
The French appellation system suggests that each place will have its own
distinctive characteristics. It’s one thing, say, to compare a
Chambolle-Musigny from Burgundy with a Chinon from the Loire Valley. One is
made from pinot noir, the other with cabernet franc. You would expect that
they would differ for that reason alone.
But if wines are made with the same grape, other factors come into play. In
the case of the Northern Rhône, the French authorities concluded long ago that
the wines made in St.-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas were all
sufficiently distinctive to warrant separate appellations.
What would be the basis for the differences? Soils, drainage, microclimates,
elevations, angles of inclination toward the sun, viticulture and, yes, the
human element, all play a role. Terroir, in short.
Of course, we would be naïve not to acknowledge other factors, like economics
and politics, that influence how appellations are shaped.
When the St.-Joseph appellation was founded in 1956, for example, it was
intended to convey the qualities of wine grown on steep granite hillsides
clustered near six villages. Eventually, though, because of economic and
political pressure, the appellation was extended to include flat, fertile,
easy-to-farm areas that yield inferior wines and muddy the meaning of place.
Still, St.-Josephs made by good producers, who respect the spirit of the
appellation, ought to give good ideas of the character of a place. Here are
the three Northern Rhônes I suggest:
J.L. Chave Sélection Crozes-Hermitage Silène 2018 (Erin Cannon Imports,
Manhasset, N.Y.) $30
J.L. Chave Sélection St.-Joseph Offerus 2017 (Erin Cannon Imports, Manhasset,
N.Y.) $31
Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30 2018 (A Thomas Calder Selection/Polaner
Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.) $40
You will note that two of the wines come from the same producer, J.L. Chave
Sélection, the négociant arm of Jean-Louis Chave, one of the great producers
of the Northern Rhône. I think these are among the best and most accessible
examples of both St.-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. If Chave offered a Cornas, I
might have chosen that bottle, too. Vincent Paris is an excellent choice in
his own right.
If you can’t find these bottles, please consult Wine School columns on
St.-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage for other options.
We have not covered Cornas previously, so if you cannot find the Granit 30,
please consider bottles from Franck Balthazar, Alain Voge, Guillaume Gilles,
Mickaël Bourg, Domaine Lionnet and Jean-Baptiste Souillard. I’m not suggesting
legendary producers like Thierry Allemand and Auguste Clape, but if you have a
spare bottle, by all means go ahead and drink it.
I like pretty much anything with Northern Rhône reds, but you can’t go wrong
with a roast chicken, various beef dishes and savory stews.
A cautionary note: You may not find compelling differences among the wines.
This is simply the beginning of an exploration, not a scientific experiment
intended to reach definitive conclusions.
If you do find differences, they may tell us little about appellations. They
may be the usual variables that would be apparent in wines made from different
producers, or different vintages in the case of the St.-Joseph.
Differences in terroir become apparent over the course of many years of
consistent evaluation. This month’s wines are not the end, but the beginning.
2020-09-03 16:28:25.420 GMT
By Eric Asimov
(New York Times) -- This month we’re going to try something a little
different.
Ordinarily, I suggest three bottles of the same type of wine. Instead, I want
to compare three wines that are closely related but come from different
appellations within a larger region, the Northern Rhône Valley of France.
Each is made with the syrah grape. But what if anything distinguishes one from
the others? That’s what we are going to examine.
The French appellation system suggests that each place will have its own
distinctive characteristics. It’s one thing, say, to compare a
Chambolle-Musigny from Burgundy with a Chinon from the Loire Valley. One is
made from pinot noir, the other with cabernet franc. You would expect that
they would differ for that reason alone.
But if wines are made with the same grape, other factors come into play. In
the case of the Northern Rhône, the French authorities concluded long ago that
the wines made in St.-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage and Cornas were all
sufficiently distinctive to warrant separate appellations.
What would be the basis for the differences? Soils, drainage, microclimates,
elevations, angles of inclination toward the sun, viticulture and, yes, the
human element, all play a role. Terroir, in short.
Of course, we would be naïve not to acknowledge other factors, like economics
and politics, that influence how appellations are shaped.
When the St.-Joseph appellation was founded in 1956, for example, it was
intended to convey the qualities of wine grown on steep granite hillsides
clustered near six villages. Eventually, though, because of economic and
political pressure, the appellation was extended to include flat, fertile,
easy-to-farm areas that yield inferior wines and muddy the meaning of place.
Still, St.-Josephs made by good producers, who respect the spirit of the
appellation, ought to give good ideas of the character of a place. Here are
the three Northern Rhônes I suggest:
J.L. Chave Sélection Crozes-Hermitage Silène 2018 (Erin Cannon Imports,
Manhasset, N.Y.) $30
J.L. Chave Sélection St.-Joseph Offerus 2017 (Erin Cannon Imports, Manhasset,
N.Y.) $31
Domaine Vincent Paris Cornas Granit 30 2018 (A Thomas Calder Selection/Polaner
Selections, Mount Kisco, N.Y.) $40
You will note that two of the wines come from the same producer, J.L. Chave
Sélection, the négociant arm of Jean-Louis Chave, one of the great producers
of the Northern Rhône. I think these are among the best and most accessible
examples of both St.-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage. If Chave offered a Cornas, I
might have chosen that bottle, too. Vincent Paris is an excellent choice in
his own right.
If you can’t find these bottles, please consult Wine School columns on
St.-Joseph and Crozes-Hermitage for other options.
We have not covered Cornas previously, so if you cannot find the Granit 30,
please consider bottles from Franck Balthazar, Alain Voge, Guillaume Gilles,
Mickaël Bourg, Domaine Lionnet and Jean-Baptiste Souillard. I’m not suggesting
legendary producers like Thierry Allemand and Auguste Clape, but if you have a
spare bottle, by all means go ahead and drink it.
I like pretty much anything with Northern Rhône reds, but you can’t go wrong
with a roast chicken, various beef dishes and savory stews.
A cautionary note: You may not find compelling differences among the wines.
This is simply the beginning of an exploration, not a scientific experiment
intended to reach definitive conclusions.
If you do find differences, they may tell us little about appellations. They
may be the usual variables that would be apparent in wines made from different
producers, or different vintages in the case of the St.-Joseph.
Differences in terroir become apparent over the course of many years of
consistent evaluation. This month’s wines are not the end, but the beginning.