The last time I drank these two wines side by side was almost exactly 20 years at a four-by-four, 1995-1998, Medoc First Growth tasting less than a mile away on Piccadilly. Both showed considerable promise at the time. I was more curious about the 1995 this time, having tried the 1996 at our Latour dinner three years ago, where it shone after being double decanted that morning, and it was only eclipsed by the mighty 1982.
I decanted the 1996 at 530pm and the 1995 we opened at the table. Both wines had been taken down to 55-60F as it was still quite warm when we sat down. These wines, now in their mid-20s, have very different personalities. The 1996 is bold and assertive while the 1995 was initially shy and retiring in comparison.
While one always tends to describe Latour as masculine, the 1995 I found to be more feminine - well, at least in comparison to the 1996 - and it soon began to unfurl beautifully. It has subtle aromas of black fruits, minerals and graphite and is ever so refined and silky as it caresses the palate.
The 1996 is bigger, bolder, more four square, has more power and density on the mid-palate, a lot more heft overall, while the tannins are big and rumbustious still, but in an exhilarating rather than obtrusive way. Both wines are such a joy to drink but so very different. The experience was undoubtedly enhanced by drinking both wines out of Conterno Sensory glasses...a match made in heaven
I was half expecting the 1995 to be a recalcitrant beast, but it was far from it. It is a wine which is drinking well now and is the epitome of finesse, and is at the beginning of its drinking window. The 1996 is hugely enjoyable too, and can be drunk but will reward patience.
Overall a good showing in these two vintages at a time when Latour has probably not completely on top of its game. The 1996, in particular, is an old fashioned Latour like the 1966. Apparently quite a lot of green matter went into the mix, for better or for worse, which does not happen with modern Latours.
It would have been interesting to have a 2000 at the table because by then Frederic Engerer had begun to ring the changes in his quest to make Latour ‘first among equals’ of the first growths, which many observers feel he has duly achieved. I liked the 1995 and 1996 equally and very happy to own a case of each. For drinking now, I would opt for the 1995. Both wines are 12.5%ABV.
Lurra was a lurra lurra fun, particularly sitting outside on Seymour Place watching all the comings and goings, on a halcyon June evening. The food was terrific, but the service was more leisurely than attentive, and we were charged £56 corkage for the two bottles. Still, it was worth it.
