25th anniversary 1996 left bank first growth and super second shootout

[Comte Flaneur]

The precursor to this was the 1995 Bordeaux dinner we did at Noize almost exactly two years ago with Mr Vino, which was highly successful with all the wines showing well. Over the years we have held several 1996 dinners this side of the pond, but we have never rolled out the big guns. The 25th anniversary of this great left bank vintage seemed like a good time to do so. We restricted the line up to the left bank, first growths and ‘super seconds’ or equivalents.

To get the ball rolling with snacks:

Krug 1996 - an evolved colour, serious orthodox Krug, with a stern backbone of acidity. Obviously very good, but not exactly a bundle of joy. It fact it is a bit of a miserable sod. Surprisingly it did not really evolve or loosen up over the evening, 91 pts

Pavillon Blanc 1996 - more overt Sauvignon Blanc characteristics than the delicious 1988 and 2004 PBs we tried last week. Neither did this evolve over the night like last week’s PBs. Competent, but neither interesting nor exciting, 90 pts.

Now on to the business part of the evening. All the 1996 reds were opened or decanted around 4pm.

Flight one - with wild mushroom tagliatelle:

Ducru Beaucaillou - I have not tried this for many years, and I was expecting it to be still somewhat hunkered down. Instead it was open for business, with the most exhilarating and intoxicating bouquet of the whole evening. It had a ripe palate, which was surprisingly open knit and more easygoing than I expected, but underpinned by a fine line of acidity. This Ducru was in the sweet spot and delivered so much pleasure, 95pts

Leoville Lascases - more brooding and reticent on the nose than the Ducru but with a layered dense core. Elegant and seamless, with restrained power, fabulous length. An interesting contrast in styles. The Ducru is more hedonistic, the Lascases more brooding and serious. This will continue to evolve and improve at a glacial pace, but I doubt it will ever have the exuberance of the all-singing, all-dancing 1990 LLC. Still, 96pts

Pichon Lalande - it has the trademark green leaf, capsicum and menthol nose, and is big-framed on the palate, not unlike the 1986 PLL. Unlike the Ducru this wine seems hardly to have evolved in the last 10-15 years. While it is a Pichon you can enjoy with relish, this wine is surprisingly rumbustious and clunky compared to its flight mates and ideally needs more time to smooth out, 93pts

Pichon Baron - a more classical style of perfectly resolved claret. Impeccable table manners compared to the more uncouth Comtessa. Likeable, pleasant and charming. Which is the problem because it suffers in this flight, especially next to the Ducru and the Lascases. It lacks lacks oomph, pizzaz and excitement. You can do much better in this vintage and by drinking younger wines from this address, 92pts

Flight two - with roast rump lamb and aubergine:

Chateau Palmer - trademark, but low key Palmer nose, this is still youthful and somewhat cocooned. Even though it had been decanted hours earlier it is a wine you have to work at - with vigorous swirling and nose diving - to extract smoke signals in the twilight - faint red berries, spice box, cedar, pencil lead and chocolates nuances. It has a velvety texture and good persistence. It needs more time and is evolving at a snail’s pace, but you know the quality is there, 94 pts

Chateau Haut-Brion - have not tried this for several years. This is more resolved than the Palmer, and tastes like it has been so for many years. It is classical refined Haut-Brion, and very different to the 1998, which is much more backward. Not a hair out of place. While this is an excellent wine, it ultimately lacks that spark or je ne sais quoi, to make it memorable, or stand out from the crowd, 94 pts

Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion - unlike La Mission, which delivered fireworks last night, and was arguably the most exciting wine of the whole evening. This La Mission has great energy, much more than the Haut-Brion, electricity and laser-like focus, searing acidity and exhilarating rocky, smoky, volcanic, notes. Such a riveting 1996 and triumph, 97 pts

Flight three - with slow cooked beef:

Chateau Margaux - unlike last week’s bottle this one was firing on all cylinders. It certainly helped being served out of a large glass, and having been double decanted hours earlier. With more latitude to show off its wares, this Margaux delivered a masterclass. Such poise and complexity with black pastille fruit, tea, lead pencil. Such precision, richness, layered intensity, power, and at the same time dexterity. A bit more accessible than the other first growths here, it will nevertheless continue to improve, 98 pts

Mouton-Rothschild - the last bottle of this I tried was moody. This was one was more joyous, and while it is young, not fully resolved and still coming together, it is all there. Cabernet-dominated, it is inky, dense, with cassis and some minty overtones. This will be a great wine in 5-10 years time. For now, 96 pts

Lafite-Rothschild - back in 2001 I attended a tasting of the first growth Medocs in the 1995-1998 vintages. Two wines stood out. The 1996 Ch Margaux and the 1996 Lafite. They were just about neck-and-neck with the Margaux just edging it, before these wines inevitably closed down. Whereas the Margaux has been open for a few years, the Lafite is only just reawakening. The Lafite is already a magnificent wine with the structure to last for many decades and eventually perhaps pull clear of the Margaux. Right now the Margaux just edges it. Still, 98+ pts for the Lafite…

Latour - big, dark and brooding and not as open as the bottle I had six months ago. Some noted some swimming pool notes beginning to emerge, which I may not have noticed otherwise. This bottle was big and monolithic, and certainly not as open for business or pleasurable as the last one, 94?

With blue cheese:

Yquem 1996 - such an evolved colour, it nevertheless really delivered. An under-rated vintage of Yquem in my opinion, 95

We ordered in bigger than normal stems for this event and it made a big difference. More space for the bigger wines to express themselves. Wine of the night was Margaux (23 votes) followed by Lafite (19) and La Mission (8). The only wine we really missed was the legendary Lynch-Bages, which of course qualifies as a de facto or honorary super-second.

[OrlandoRobert]

Killer vintage.

Had that 96 Ducru recently, it’s exceptional.

[JimHow]

Mmmm, doggie, thanks for the report, Ian...

Any thoughts on your pick over which vintage is better?
I know they are somewhat different styled vintages, but if you had to pick ONE, which is it:

1995 or 1996?

I remember Parker talking about how the left bank cabernet was the ripest in 50 years in 1996.

I remember we laughed at James Suckling early on for preferring the '95s over '96s, and the famous BWE Boston 95-96 Tasting seemed to confirm our theories early on, but a quarter century later I'm wondering whether Mr. Suckling isn't getting the last laugh after all.

[Blanquito]

Yum, some great wines there, Mr. Amstad. I can still recall that already-delicious-yet-full-of-future-promise 96 Ducru you brought to Morton’s in 06 with Arv and Jim’s sensational bottle of the 96 LLC back in 08 (my favorite vintage of LLC), so it’s wonderful to see the 96s have filled their destiny and (at long last) attained Howquito. To my eye, the 96s have shed a lot of tannins in the last decade while improving their mid palate depth (which used to come across overly lean when cloaked in their youthful structure).

I do still hold out some hope, that with (sigh) another 10 years or so of maturity, the 96s may climb to even greater heights. When (if?) these ever get some of the tertiary complexity of a fully mature wine, a la the great clarets of the 80’s, then I’ll be ready to start popping my 96s in earnest.

[Nicklasss]

Very nice report Comte, on top 1996. At age 25, look like they are in a nice spot.

Had a few of these, but lately, the 1996 Château Ducru Beaucaillou that JeanFred opened was in a great place in it evolution. Did not thought it need so much more years.

In the past, the LLC (Jim brought one to Montréal in 2003) was already excellent in that LLC austere but rich way. The Pichon Lalande significantly Pauillac and impressive. The two top Saint Estephe, both near great. Pichon Baron, good follower of 1995, very 1996 black currant style. 96 Rauzan Segla very young but already complex concentrated delicious wine in 2002 that would become more Margaux with more time. And the GPL, that i thought was terrific young also in 2002. JeanFred opened a Mouton years ago, it has been the only very concentrated not too expressive i've had.

[JimHow]

I brought a 1996 Ducru to a dinner with MichaelP in Midtown East a few years ago, to me it was a disappointment, tired.
I thought it may have been flawed, but Michael insisted that it wasn't.

[Comte Flaneur]

I think these 1996 lefties are in the Howquito zone, the Alex R drinking zone. Jim could have been drinking these for a decade but some need a Blanquito or two. Patrick would wait on most of these. The Ducru was a pleasant surprise though, I expected it to me much more reticent.

Jim I have been a big believer in the 1995 vintage. It is certainly excellent on the right bank. I think even more backward than 1996 on the left bank and probably not quite as good overall, but not that far behind. Lafite 1995 for example is a match for the 1996. Latour, Mouton, La Mission, Ducru, GPL are evenly matched in both vintages too. Haut-Brion I think is actually better in 1995. Based on the two bottles two years apart at these tastings. So is Sociando better in 1995.

The wine that really got my pulse racing was La Mission 1996. The last one I had was somewhat out of sorts. This one was incredible. So glad to have ten bottles left of this wine. But La Mission 1995 two years ago was fantastic. While we disagree on Lynch Bages I think we can all agree that La Mission should be a first growth.

Nic I remember well that comment about great wines, but can’t remember exactly who said it! Was it the cellar master at LLC?

[robert goulet]

Yes indeed, I popped the 96 ducru with Orl Bobby...a wonderful wine, Bobby also reference some guys from the 'other' board stating that Ducru is knocking on the door of first growth quality....we also had the 96 Barton and SHL which were also killer, classic, charming, powerful...'96 left lives up to its billing.

[JoelD]

Great night and great report, Ian. I was impressed and slightly surprised that the 96 Ducru was starting to drink well two years ago. I wish I had bought more back then.

Sounds like I should probably wait just a bit on my lone bottle of 96 LLC. Or should I pop it, and I try to source more before inflation makes them cost 1k a bottle by the time they're perfectly Blanquito'd. Decisions, decisons.

[Blanquito]

95 was a better year for merlot, 96 better for cab (merlot was even “bad” in 96, right?, as it missed the Indian summer which saved the cab harvest a la 86). That’s the conventional wisdom at any rate. I tend to find the good 95 LBs are more Merlot heavy, like Sociando which is/was something like 50% merlot. Pichon Lalande is also strong in 95, with all that merlot it used to use. And Graves chateau, which used to be heavy with merlot, were stronger in 95.

[Jay Winton]

The 95 dinner was an exceptional evening of wine and camaraderie. Ian's tasting group has an impressive grasp of Bordeaux so an educational evening for mr vino in the best way.

[Blanquito]

Ian, I think you need to do a 98 RB night as part of this series. Or if not London, than in DC/NYC!

Petrus, VCC, Figeac (I own), l’Evangile (I own), Magdelaine (I own), La Conseillante, Lafleur, Cheval Blanc, Eglise Clinet, etc. No shortage of legends-to-be there.

The only question is if they’re more or less ready then the 96 LBs are now.

[Blanquito]

Yes indeed, I popped the 96 ducru with Orl Bobby...a wonderful wine, Bobby also reference some guys from the 'other' board stating that Ducru is knocking on the door of first growth quality....we also had the 96 Barton and SHL which were also killer, classic, charming, powerful...'96 left lives up to its billing.

You lads drink well down in Central Florida. I’ve always wondered how claret goes with deep fried alligator.

[Comte Flaneur]

Ian, I think you need to do a 98 RB night as part of this series. Or if not London, than in DC/NYC!

Petrus, VCC, Figeac (I own), l’Evangile (I own), Magdelaine (I own), La Conseillante, Lafleur, Cheval Blanc, Eglise Clinet, etc. No shortage of legends-to-be there.

The only question is if they’re more or less ready then the 96 LBs are now.

I have VCC, Conseillante and Cheval Blanc so we are nearly there!

I suspect they are in a similar place to the 1996 lefties we had on Tuesday, some ready some needing Blanquitoing

[AlexR]

Hi Ian,

I see that your high-flying phase is still in full swing !


Here’s my take on your take:

Krug 1996 – From your description, does not seem transcendent or, probably, worth the dough.

Pavillon Blanc 1996 – Their white wine went through a rather long “dormant period” when it was never really poor, just nothing special. They have really pulled their socks up since. We must try the 2017 together one day!

Ducru : such a good wine…

Leoville Lascases – but, I see you liked this better. Interesting that you don’t project it delivering considerably more over time.

Pichon Lalande – Give it time, you say. I usually find that PL comes around earlier than the previous two, but your tasting says otherwise.

Pichon Baron – As you say, a comparative tasting puts things in context.

Chateau Palmer – I, too, would like to have a crack at this in a few years.

Chateau Haut-Brion – Strives for elegance and sometimes is not as spirited as other firsts.

Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion – I find the comparison with HB very interesting. I have friends here in Bordeaux who have an “in” with Domaine Dillon, and have been comparing HB and LMHB at their table for quite some time. HB usually wins for my taste, but the spread in favour of the latter was significant in your tasting.

Chateau Margaux – Lucky you, to have had two bottles in the same week! Do you think it was more bottle variation or decanting time/type of wine glass?

Mouton-Rothschild – In a great Cabernet year, I’m not surprised that this is tight but very promising.

Lafite-Rothschild – I’m jealous that you have had an aged version of this…

Latour – I’m not far from thinking that Latour doesn't quite reach the Wow level on a number of occasions. On its own, it would surely have been more impressive. It is *so* precious to compare these great wines not only en primeur, but a quarter of a century down the road. Many lessons to be learned.

All the best,
Alex

[gene m.]

In Charleston, SC for annual CT gathering we did a flight of 1996 Bordeaux. Notes are from MC2 on Cellar Tracker. additional notes from S1 who was our host. This tasting was at our VRBO on Isle of Palms Thurs Nov. 4th ,21.

Back in Aug 2016 I did the "6's" with Arv, Bill for the 66, 76, 86, 96 bordeaux with 96 champagnes. Back then the 96's tasted way too young. I feel the 96 , even after 25 years are still too young.

Starters

NV Delamotte Champagne Brut 2x
France, Champagne
Crisp and bright and brioche and bread and nuttiness. Very classic champagne and great for the price point.

2014 Hors Catégorie Vineyards Syrah Hors Catégorie Vineyard
USA, Washington, Columbia Valley, Walla Walla Valley
EVerything you expect from rocks style Syrah. A funky and meaty and gamey. More approachable than I would have thought but very young.

2011 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage Blanc
France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
A lot lighter than I expected of a white rhone wine It is creamed honey. A touch of heat.

1996 Moët & Chandon Champagne Cuvée Dom Pérignon
France, Champagne

Young and fresh and clearly well stored. This was really impressive in just how very young the wine was. It tasted almost like a recent vintage and yet it was much more interesting than young DP ever is. One of the surprises of the evening

1996 Château Cos d'Estournel
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Austere as it often is but also really quite nice and vibrant. There's a bit of green notes in the way that I like. Earthy. A bit peppery. From a magnum. Drinking very well.

1996 Château Léoville Las Cases
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Also more on the austere side but I picked the wines I expected to be that way for my early tastes. Darker red currant, some more bark style. Very young. From a magnum.

1996 Château Pichon-Longueville Baron
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Perhaps a touch of brett in this one but overall I think it was still lovely. Woodsy. Darker fruit and lots of spice cabinet. Very enjoyable.

1996 Château Pichon Longueville Comtesse de Lalande
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
Wonderful wine as always. Still quite youngish. Darker fruits, very balanced, very vibrant.

1996 Château Lafite Rothschild
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
From a magnum. This was young. Darker fruits, peppercorn, drying tannin.

1974 Charles Krug Winery (Peter Mondavi Family) Cabernet Sauvignon
USA, California, Napa Valley
In the middle of a horizontal of '96 Bordeaux this comes across as a bit more darker sweetness than some of those although still very much more old world style. Very balanced and tasty.

1996 Château Montrose
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Estèphe
Bright and fruity and just does like to jump out of the glass at you. One of my go to's in Bordeaux. Baking spices. Delicious.

1996 Château Gruaud Larose
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, St. Julien
Also quite fresh and enjoyable. Peppery. Lovely level of vibrancy in this wine. .

1996 Château Grand-Puy-Lacoste
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Pauillac
This wine surprised me a bit. Not a producer we've spent a lot of time with in Bordeaux. It was very fresh and bright and drinking quite nicely in that classic old Bordeaux style. A hint of green and certainly more earthy in style.

1996 Château Margaux, 4 bottles, bottle #3 was best. After the dinner Mark poured all 4 bottle remnants in to a glass for a Marguax-rita.
It was one of the best.

France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
Left this to my last flight mostly because it was the flight I was most excited about and I'm happy to say it didn't disappoint. Lovely and plush and velvet in the glass. It's darker than I'd normally think - more dark fruited than red. A hint of green. Lower acid. Mouth coating.

1996 Château Palmer
France, Bordeaux, Médoc, Margaux
We popped the cork on this and the nose just jumped right out. Impressive from the get go. Red and black fruits and velvet in the mouth but that nose is just so enticing.

NV Vilmart & Cie Champagne Premier Cru Cuvée Rubis
France, Champagne, Champagne Premier Cru
It is very true that wine is about time and place and also what else you have been consuming and so after a big flight of lots of 96 Bordeaux this just jumped out. Lots of red fruits and berries and just so very yummy.

NV Chartogne-Taillet Champagne Cuvée Sainte Anne
France, Champagne
This was lovely. Fresh and spicy and bright and while often I think this is a champagne you want some time to sit and ponder it was open for business from the get go.

2x 1970 Taylor Fladgate Port
Very youthful even after 50+ years. double decsnted. Figs, trace of woodsy flavor, plums and incredible depth

[Comte Flaneur]

Hi Ian,

I see that your high-flying phase is still in full swing !


Here’s my take on your take:

Krug 1996 – From your description, does not seem transcendent or, probably, worth the dough.

Pavillon Blanc 1996 – Their white wine went through a rather long “dormant period” when it was never really poor, just nothing special. They have really pulled their socks up since. We must try the 2017 together one day!

Ducru : such a good wine…

Leoville Lascases – but, I see you liked this better. Interesting that you don’t project it delivering considerably more over time.

Pichon Lalande – Give it time, you say. I usually find that PL comes around earlier than the previous two, but your tasting says otherwise.

Pichon Baron – As you say, a comparative tasting puts things in context.

Chateau Palmer – I, too, would like to have a crack at this in a few years.

Chateau Haut-Brion – Strives for elegance and sometimes is not as spirited as other firsts.

Chateau La Mission Haut-Brion – I find the comparison with HB very interesting. I have friends here in Bordeaux who have an “in” with Domaine Dillon, and have been comparing HB and LMHB at their table for quite some time. HB usually wins for my taste, but the spread in favour of the latter was significant in your tasting.

Chateau Margaux – Lucky you, to have had two bottles in the same week! Do you think it was more bottle variation or decanting time/type of wine glass?

Mouton-Rothschild – In a great Cabernet year, I’m not surprised that this is tight but very promising.

Lafite-Rothschild – I’m jealous that you have had an aged version of this…

Latour – I’m not far from thinking that Latour doesn't quite reach the Wow level on a number of occasions. On its own, it would surely have been more impressive. It is *so* precious to compare these great wines not only en primeur, but a quarter of a century down the road. Many lessons to be learned.

All the best,
Alex

Thanks for your thoughts Alex. I am not sure exactly why the second bottle of 1996 Margaux was better but I think the glass size had a lot to do with it. At the Ch. Margaux event the glasses were more Chianti-sized - good Riedel glasses but too small for a wine of that stature me reckons. At the 1996 event we hired some large Bordeaux glasses, which I think gave the wine more latitude to express itself.
Re Latour that was at a time when Fred Engerer was coming on board and he shook thinks up. I had that wine in May next to the 1995 and both showed very well.

[robert goulet]

Great notes...I recently ordered some NV Vimart Rubis and added a 96 Montrose a couple months back

The other night at another birthday celebration for my 50th my buddy brought the 2002 vilart rubis...it was lovely

And my wotn amongst some bangers was 96 Lagrange
With 99 Darmailhac and 83 Lunch Bags a close 2nd